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Discussion Starter #1
69 Mustang Convertible
302, Blue Print Heads just installed, Edlebrock intake and carb.

Seen many post about quality and not so quality starter solenoids. I've replaced the ignition switch, starter, alternator, battery, and cables; as well as the starter solenoid with a Scott Drake Autolite Concours (thought to be better quality). Before I replaced the switch I had constant power through the solenoid with a test light. Hooked up the battery and sparked like hell and the car tried to start. Installed new switch, no sparks, fired right up. But then the car would not shut off even with the key out. My question is that it does not seem like there should be power on all post of the solenoid until the key is turned. Should there be, or is this solenoid bad?

Thanks. ??
 

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I think I remember reading about the concours quality starter relays doing exactly that and should only be for looks. West coast Cougars video mentioned it also I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Damn. Looks like I'm a little new to the Fords. I checked out the video. D2xx next. Would that solve the no shut off I wonder?
 

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If the small terminals on the starter relay are unplugged and you still have the starter try to engage when you hook up the battery then the starter relay (solenoid if you will) is the problem. Go grab one from your local parts house and you will probably have no more issues.
I found it commendable that WCC mentioned the concours one is absolute junk even though they sell them. Just for show...
 

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Start the engine. Turn the key Off. If the engine continues to run remove the wire from the small post labeled I which is the small post farthest from the large post connected to the battery + cable. Does the engine die now? If it dies your solenoid is defective. Buy a new Motorcraft solenoid at the auto parts store- O'Reilly won't have it in stock but they can get it.
 

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The only post with constant power will be the post on the left that is connected to the battery. The other three posts will only be hot while you are holding the switch twisted all the way into the "start" position. The "S" post becomes hot first being fed from the switch itself. Then the solenoid energizes the "I" post and the "Starter" post. These three post all loose power when you release the key.
 

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Your car is a 69 with V8 so you'll have wires on all 4 posts on the solenoid. Front to back: Red, red, black, black. As stated above, get one from a local parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I picked up the new MC D2xx solenoid. My brown wire to the "I" is getting constant 12V power. I put a new switch in as well, but still have the same issue. Where else could the brown wire be getting constant power?
 

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Sometimes a pic helps solve the problem.
 

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If the brown wire is connected to the "I" terminal, then the other end of this wire should be connected to the coil. First, disconnect the brown wire from the "I" terminal and test both the "I" terminal and the brown wire. If the "I" terminal is hot and the brown wire shows no voltage, then focus on the solenoid itself; however, if the "I" terminal shows no voltage and the brown wire is hot, then the other end of that wire should be connected to the coil. If the voltage is about 6volts, then this just means that you have the switch on and the coil is energized (and you still have the resistor wire working). Note that the brown wire, though connected to the coil, does not route directly to the coil. It goes through a connector.

My guess is that you tested the brown wire for voltage while you had the switch on. If so, I think this is to be expected and is not a problem.
 

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Just curious ... What happens if you remove the black/yellow wire from the solenoid post? What happens if you remove the positive battery cable from the solenoid post and connect to the removed black/yellow?
Trying to workout where the power is coming from, via the ignition switch, or direct from the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The "I" post shows nothing. The "I" wire shows 12V with no key in switch in off position. 12V on + side of coil. 12V between the coil. Nothing from the "I" wire to the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The car ran well for the last two years then this started. Was running two days ago. Turned the key off and the car keeps running. Changed the switch, no luck.
 

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Turning the key off and the car keeps running definitely shows that the coil is always hot. Since the "I" post shows no voltage with the brown wire disconnected and the switch not in the "start" position, then the coil issue is not related to the solenoid. Refer to the diagram below as a guide. Somewhere you have an issue with a coil wire. Look at wires 262, 16A, 16B, and 16, and of course, the switch itself. Look at the diagram as a guide to find your short.
 

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Remove the ignition switch and ohm read it between B and C. in off and run position. It should only show continuity in run.
751123
 

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If that passes, remove the yellow/black at the solenoid, and check for continuity between it and the brown wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The switch passed continuity sound wise, but hardly any to no reading on both new and old. I don't have a yellow/black wire to my solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
My next step is probably to undo the harness and follow the wiring. I noticed the switch wiring has been spliced at the switch; which might account for not having a pink wire. Is it possible the neutral safety switch is faulty and passing current? Strange as I've been having no issue for the past two year when it started fine.
 
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