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Discussion Starter #1
The quarter was replaced where the filler is (From that seam to the bottom). I can't seem to get rid of this low spot, and upon looking at the other side of the car, it appears to have a similar low spot.

You can see it where the guide coat remains right at the rear and above the scoop (starts about 2/3 of the way back from the front of the scoop).

I'm not sure if the quarter panel should start 'out' at the door, then go in slightly where that low spot is, and then back out, or not. I have a feeling it will be visible, but as i said, not sure if it's supposed to be there.

Thanks guys!



 

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Not sure if its supposed to be there. I will have to check mine. But if you want to smooth it out, I recommend a longer board. One of the stiff foam ones. If you can pick up the area over the wheel well while you are filing, it should level out like you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, if you (or someone) could check, it would be much appreciated. I'm kind of stuck at the moment. :D

As for length, I WAS using that 17" board you can see in the picture, but the thing is so light it's a real pain.

So I started using a 9" heavy rubber block, which seems to be much better, but yes, as you said, it's not too long. The problem with long ones is that there are so many contours and what not going on I have problems getting them to fit anywhere!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just a bump for those in the know! I'd like to try to get this quarter done today before heading back.. Wishful thinking, I know. :D
 

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I would use a long flexible sanding block like Dura-Block. Works a lot better blending big contours. I would say that it should not be there. Could be from the stamping die or from welding or a combination of both.
 

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You really need to mud the whole quarter. You have too many variances in the mud and metal I think? One skim coat would work well. And in the one area, you have too hard of a line and it needs to be feathered out more. Put a coat over that one area and build it up a little and then skim that whole thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the responses guys. What are are you talking about Steve? The bottom section of filler right above the wheel is coming off.. I just accidently slapped it on there. But I believe the metal to be good there (Who knows actually, but from what I remember). And the very upper left that is now metal was skimmed I believe.. But right below that is the weld so I think it must have warped inwards.

FRH: I'll check out different blocks.. Never thought about a long foam one. Might work well for the rear of the quarter actually, where i'm having problems with my 9" block.
 

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I think you are slightly low in that area and you need to build it up just slightly. Anytime you have bright metal showing, it means you are low. If it where me, I would skim coat the whole quarter, but if you are just wanting to deal with that area, then skim coat it and block it out until the metal is just starting to show. There should not be a hard line between the mud and metal. I don't know if a longer board will help honestly, because you do have the panel making changes there. Sometimes I use the 9" in those areas.
 

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You really need to mud the whole quarter. You have too many variances in the mud and metal I think? One skim coat would work well. And in the one area, you have too hard of a line and it needs to be feathered out more. Put a coat over that one area and build it up a little and then skim that whole thing.
Good advice. Had the same problem with fender on a 66. You see the guys on shows laying LARGE areas-looks like they use Rage Gold. Anyway, had one of those "idiot boards" like yours and spent a long afternoon ******* with it! Go diagonally in one direction, opposite in the other. Isn't like you have to bear down real hard just moderately.
 

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Do you see any low spot here?



 

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Do you see any low spot here?




Go a little easy on JohnyK. Let's see, $100,000 car vs student doing a minimum $
home resto of a trashed rust heap!
 

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Go a little easy on JohnyK. Let's see, $100,000 car vs student doing a minimum $ home resto of a trashed rust heap!
Well, to really understand my point you need to know the car in the photo has 29,000 miles on it, and those are the original quarters.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Woah woah.. Low budget slimmy, not low quality! :D

But, I mean, I assume you're joking if you're asking me to spot a low spot in a picture on a 19" screen.

Although, I MIGHT actually see something in the second picture, right in the exact same spot as mine, where it starts to swoop up. Hard to tell though.

I definitely hope to have better hood to fender alignment though! :D
 

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:) OK, here's another. The quarters should be a smooth curve.

 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hmm.. While I appreciate the sentiment quite a bit, pictures don't seem to be helping me much. :D Obviously the quarters have to flare out because the doors are more inboard than the rest of the quarters, correct?

So do they only flare out for the first few inches and then it's constant? Or do they stay in for a bit (6" or so approx?) and then flare out?
 

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Yep. Much easier to show than describe.
 
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