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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I pulled out all the carpeting in the 67 today. I found some very small pinholes in the floor pan about 6. There so small that from under the car when I detailed it they were not even noticeable I was thinking throw some JB weld on them or a type of bondo What do you guys suggest.These are literally pin holes. The largest one the size of an pencil erasure.
 

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I'm afraid that if the floors are thin enough that pinholes are present it won't be long until you start seeing sizeable holes in the floor. I would replace any questionable areas now that you have the seats and carpet out. Do it right the first time and you won't have to re-address the issue in the future.
 

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Current cars include 1969 Mach 1 and 1970 Cougar XR7 convertible
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Mike:

For me, pin holes are the first sign of a weakening floor. By the time a pin hole becomes visible, the floor is already starting to be compromised by rust surrounding the pin hole. If the floor easily flexes when pressed it no longer has the strength to be a structural member of a unibody car. At the least, a partial metal patch should be considered to reinforce the weakened floor. FWIW a "pin hole" is a small hole the size of a pin, an eraser sized hole is quite a bit larger and more significant when it comes to structural integrity.
 
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I bet if you go to weld up the pinholes you will find that the problem will grow. IMHO jbweld or bondo are not a proper solution to the problem. Weld in a patch and be done with it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Jeff your correct. The holes in question are literally pin holes scattered about. The hole in question was a pin hole ,but after sanding and cleaning up the floor became an erasure size hole. All holes are now at bare metal There is only 6.The floors to me are very sound. There was surface rust only on the drivers side floor everything else looks great. I used a dremel to clean up the one hole and am into good metal. I prepped with SEM brand rust inhibitor. I'm not into patching a panel at this time. I dont have a welder, However I do have skills at welding.I just thought JB weld be better than a Bondo for a temporary repair. To me I dont really see any difference in doing some spot welds to the area as opposed to throwing down some JB weld.But I am listening to your suggestions.The holes are at the top of the floor pan about an inch before it goes into the toe board.
 

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Though generally refuse to use the stuff myself (since I prefer to do the job correctly) I suggest you get yourself a can of POR15. probably cost you $35. Just brush the stuff on using 2 coats. This will fill in any pinholes that you have and you will never be able to remove the stuff.
 

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If you go the POR 15 route, get some fiberglass cloth-not matting. Get any loose rust off and scuff surrounding areas with 40 grit paper(in their original instructions). Apply the POR and have pre cut, a section of cloth to cover the area Give it another coat and apply a 2nd layer and coat. You should have a lasting repair.A good way to do this is to use a hard rubber roller, available at art supply stores. It's called a brayer. This will iron out any trapped bubbles. Have good ventilation and wear gloves! It has to wear off if it dries on your skin. Not my favorite kind of repair but a lot of people say it works and POR has a how to in a brochure. They push their kit with a mesh piece of cloth. The fiberglass cloth is better.
 

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What has caused these holes to appear? Nomally a leaking cowl or windshield seal is the culprit. If you haven't done it in a while, you might want to test your cowl/windshield with the garden hose while you're messing around with the floorboard.

Good Luck!

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dave it's the windshield.I checked the Cowl it looks great. The rubber is completely shot the car sat for 10 yrs outside and 10 yrs inside before I bought it. Surprisingly there is no rust thru on the car except where I just noted. I have stripped the undercarriage using a sander and drill with wire wheel attached then coated with The SEM product and painted SEM trim black. It looks great The engine compartment was stripped same way, but I didnt coat it with the SEM. I used etch prime then there trim Black. I am getting ready for paint so Iam stripping the car down a little and figured I better see whats under the carpet before I get to involved with the paint.Thanks alot for your replies.
 

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My son's 69 SportsRoof had pin holes in the passenger side rear floorboard. The other floorboards were all sound. I suspect the gasket on the front window had allowed rain to soak the carpet on that side, causing the localized rust problem. When we went to weld them up, the floorboard started to melt away from the holes because it was so thin. I tried to convince him to weld in a new panel, but he purchased some very sophisticated liquid metal product from an industrial supplier a couple of doors down from my business, and poured it into the foot well. After allowing plenty of drying time he jumped up and down (as much as you can when you're 6'4") on the rear floorboard. I expected him to go right through it, but it held up nicely. He re-carpeted the car and is replacing the windows, but the whole thing seemed to work nicely. This is a driver quality car that is being heavily restomodded. If it were mine, I'd have replaced the metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sometimes the K.I.S.S theory works just fine.
 

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napaguy said:
K.I.S.S theory? Explain please
Keep It Simple Stupid
 

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I wish I would have been faced with a problem
of pin holes in my floor boards, I had rust holes
in my floors also, the kind that your whole
body can go through!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks, Thats exactly what I'm talking about. I think this is going to work well.
 
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