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Hey everyone,

I have breathers on both valve covers and the one on the passengers side smokes and it looks like it might be spitting some oil out but very little. I've already done a search for this particular problem and it sounds like it could be blow by or the lack of a PCV valve. The engine is a built 331 stroker with about 8,500 miles on it so I'm leaning more toward the latter. The engine temp while sitting at a red light in 95 degree weather can get up to about 205. The problem I'm having though is that I have ported fuel injection with a F.A.S.T. throttle body so I'm not exactly sure where it hose would need to run to. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Description of the build is in my signature.
 

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You should have a breather in one valve cover to allow fresh air in and a PCV on the other side to suck the fumes out. You really want to use a PCV as it helps keep the oil clean and build up of sludge and acid. Not to mention fumes coming into the car. You shouldn't have too much in the way of fumes with good ring seal.

Before PCV cars had road draft tubes that dumped the fumes underneath the car. When you drove, under the car is a low pressure area which would suck the fumes out. Once stopped the fumes would come into the car. It was really bad being behind someone with a tired motor with bad rings. You'd be driving through big clouds of smoke
 

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Hey everyone,

I have breathers on both valve covers and the one on the passengers side smokes and it looks like it might be spitting some oil out but very little. I've already done a search for this particular problem and it sounds like it could be blow by or the lack of a PCV valve. The engine is a built 331 stroker with about 8,500 miles on it so I'm leaning more toward the latter. The engine temp while sitting at a red light in 95 degree weather can get up to about 205. The problem I'm having though is that I have ported fuel injection with a F.A.S.T. throttle body so I'm not exactly sure where it hose would need to run to. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Description of the build is in my signature.
Your engine temp is fine.

John
 

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Hey everyone,



I have breathers on both valve covers and the one on the passengers side smokes and it looks like it might be spitting some oil out but very little. I've already done a search for this particular problem and it sounds like it could be blow by or the lack of a PCV valve. The engine is a built 331 stroker with about 8,500 miles on it so I'm leaning more toward the latter. The engine temp while sitting at a red light in 95 degree weather can get up to about 205. The problem I'm having though is that I have ported fuel injection with a F.A.S.T. throttle body so I'm not exactly sure where it hose would need to run to. Any and all help would be greatly appreciated. Description of the build is in my signature.
Google the benefits or need for a PCV system and then do it.
I might just happen to have come across just what you need. OE type aluminium spacer with PCV port and a valve. Check out retail $ then make me an offer;).
For the real race look and to preserve your spark plugs a bit longer look into a catch can to go inbetween the two. KIMG1292.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies guys. OneofAMillion+, when you're talking about putting in a catch can, are you meaning between the PCV valve and the spacer? Would I mount it to the rear of the apron? Subpar63, the main reason I was worried about the temps is because I put in a Borgeson power steering conversion kit and had to send the pump back twice because the engine bay was getting so hot that it was causing the pump to get hot and in turn, causing the dipstick to break off. Since then though, I've wrapped the pressure line and part of the return line in heat reflective tape and a power steering fluid cooler that I mounted to the radiator. I haven't had any issue since but when I mash down on the gas paddle at about 190 degrees, it shoots up to around 205 in a matter of seconds and I get a brief whiff of burning plastic, which makes me super paranoid because that's exactly what I would smell when the pump was getting too hot. Difference is, it's just a brief whiff rather than that's all I smell until I turn the car off. Haha.
 

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Thanks for the replies guys. OneofAMillion+, when you're talking about putting in a catch can, are you meaning between the PCV valve and the spacer? Would I mount it to the rear of the apron? Subpar63, the main reason I was worried about the temps is because I put in a Borgeson power steering conversion kit and had to send the pump back twice because the engine bay was getting so hot that it was causing the pump to get hot and in turn, causing the dipstick to break off. Since then though, I've wrapped the pressure line and part of the return line in heat reflective tape and a power steering fluid cooler that I mounted to the radiator. I haven't had any issue since but when I mash down on the gas paddle at about 190 degrees, it shoots up to around 205 in a matter of seconds and I get a brief whiff of burning plastic, which makes me super paranoid because that's exactly what I would smell when the pump was getting too hot. Difference is, it's just a brief whiff rather than that's all I smell until I turn the car off. Haha.

"because the engine bay was getting so hot......"? What is going on here? I run a 333 with headers, I'm not "melting" parts. Are the dipsticks on the pump "plastic". If it's running that hot, something else is going on.
Yes, you should be running a PCV system as "Huskie" mentioned and for all of the stated reasons. A side benefit, of which, it can reduce crankcase pressures, thereby, reducing the tendency for parasitic oil leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
"because the engine bay was getting so hot......"? What is going on here? I run a 333 with headers, I'm not "melting" parts. Are the dipsticks on the pump "plastic". If it's running that hot, something else is going on.
Yes, you should be running a PCV system as "Huskie" mentioned and for all of the stated reasons. A side benefit, of which, it can reduce crankcase pressures, thereby, reducing the tendency for parasitic oil leaks.
I don't now if your intent was to come off as being condescending but that's how I feel it was meant. Yes, the dipstick is plastic and I never said anything about it "melting". Weakening, maybe, but never said anything about it "melting". And as stated in my previous post, I no longer have the issue of it overheating since making the modifications. Also, since 205 degrees is a safe temperature for that engine, I don't have issues with overheating there either. I'm running headers but I'm not sure that it has any relevance to this particular issue that I'm asking about. It looks like a PCV valve is the way to go so I'll be getting that along with a spacer and catch can. Thanks again guys for all the help and "kenash", if that's not how you intended to come off than I apologize for any misunderstanding on my part. I try to conduct myself as professionally as possible but being talked down to is a hard pill for me to swallow. It looks as though you are a very active member of the forums, and as a newcomer, the last thing I want to do is make waves.
 

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The "catch can" is merely an option if you continue to have issues with oil splashing it's way into (and beyond) the PCV. Check the valve cover to determine if there is a baffle mounted under the location of the PCV. If not, you may want to install one, provided you have the clearance to the valvetrain. I have baffles mounted in both valve covers and never have issues with oil seeping past the grommets. The attached image was just shot and shows almost no trace of oil after thousands of miles, without the aid of a catch can. The addition of a can is simple if you determine that you will need one.
 

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I don't now if your intent was to come off as being condescending but that's how I feel it was meant. Yes, the dipstick is plastic and I never said anything about it "melting". Weakening, maybe, but never said anything about it "melting". And as stated in my previous post, I no longer have the issue of it overheating since making the modifications. Also, since 205 degrees is a safe temperature for that engine, I don't have issues with overheating there either. I'm running headers but I'm not sure that it has any relevance to this particular issue that I'm asking about. It looks like a PCV valve is the way to go so I'll be getting that along with a spacer and catch can. Thanks again guys for all the help and "kenash", if that's not how you intended to come off than I apologize for any misunderstanding on my part. I try to conduct myself as professionally as possible but being talked down to is a hard pill for me to swallow. It looks as though you are a very active member of the forums, and as a newcomer, the last thing I want to do is make waves.
My apologies if I my comments came off that way. I'm attempting to get to the essence of you problem and offer my "take" on what you are describing. When you mentioned the dipstick breaking off and a " whiff of melting plastic" that was my reference to "melting". Anyway, you are in good hands here.
So, how do you like the output of your "331"?
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
My apologies if I my comments came off that way. I'm attempting to get to the essence of you problem and offer my "take" on what you are describing. When you mentioned the dipstick breaking off and a " whiff of melting plastic" that was my reference to "melting". Anyway, you are in good hands here.
So, how do you like the output of your "331"?
Thank you for clarifying and I apologize too. It's really hard to determine tone and intent through messages. Haha. I LOOOVVEE the output of my engine. Although, I think I want to put a 6-71 on it eventually but with that comes a whole lot more work and expense to reduce my compression ratio. But as of right now, it's awesome. I've got it hooked up to a built T5, 4.11 gears and a posi rear. Built for the strip. I can chirp the tires all the way through 3rd! Not roast the tires but definitely break loose when shifting. I haven't dyno'd it yet but I'm hoping for around 400hp...we'll see. I haven't had it tuned either yet. I know absolutely NOTHING about fuel injection so I'm going to have to take it somewhere. Carburetor? Sure but I'll let the pros handle the fuel injection. How do you like you're 333? Is that a 331 stoker bored .040 instead of .030 over?
 

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Thank you for clarifying and I apologize too. It's really hard to determine tone and intent through messages. Haha. I LOOOVVEE the output of my engine. Although, I think I want to put a 6-71 on it eventually but with that comes a whole lot more work and expense to reduce my compression ratio. But as of right now, it's awesome. I've got it hooked up to a built T5, 4.11 gears and a posi rear. Built for the strip. I can chirp the tires all the way through 3rd! Not roast the tires but definitely break loose when shifting. I haven't dyno'd it yet but I'm hoping for around 400hp...we'll see. I haven't had it tuned either yet. I know absolutely NOTHING about fuel injection so I'm going to have to take it somewhere. Carburetor? Sure but I'll let the pros handle the fuel injection. How do you like you're 333? Is that a 331 stoker bored .040 instead of .030 over?
Yes, .040 over. I run a T5Z, 3.55 EquaLok rear. Mine is built for more curve carving than straight line. Mine breaths through Dual 40 MM WEBERS on an Performer RPM and runs TW 170 heads setup for 10.6 CR static. It was DYNOED a number of years ago now at 390 RWHP at 6200 with 401 RWTQ at 4200, or so. It built it for more TQ. The block is the original 5 bolt converted to a full roller link bars, Comp Gold rockers and a custom cam.
It's nice too. ....as an aside, if you haven't yet done so, this winter (down season) send your distributor to Dan at the Mustang Barn for a custom curve for your particular engine. It's just sweetens the whole setup. He has a spec sheet for you to complete, so as, custom curve your engine's intended use.
 

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Yes, .040 over. I run a T5Z, 3.55 EquaLok rear. Mine is built for more curve carving than straight line. Mine breaths through Dual 40 MM WEBERS on an Performer RPM and runs TW 170 heads setup for 10.6 CR static. It was DYNOED a number of years ago now at 390 RWHP at 6200 with 401 RWTQ at 4200, or so. It built it for more TQ. The block is the original 5 bolt converted to a full roller link bars, Comp Gold rockers and a custom cam.
It's nice too. ....as an aside, if you haven't yet done so, this winter (down season) send your distributor to Dan at the Mustang Barn for a custom curve for your particular engine. It's just sweetens the whole setup. He has a spec sheet for you to complete, so as, custom curve your engine's intended use.
Dang, that sounds fancy. Haha. So you're pushing about 450-460 at the flywheel! That's awesome. I'd be surprised if mine came anywhere near that. I've never had my distributor tunes. Didn't know that was a thing. So what does that do exactly? Do I need to know the specs on the cam because I'm not sure of what they are. It was already in the engine when I bought it. I looked at your garage. You have a really nice car and the engine looks great! I haven't really done a whole lot of work on my car. I just got it in March because I just recently started driving again. I chose not to drive for about two years d/t a medical condition. Once my wife and determined that I was in the clear, she asked me what kind of car I wanted and here I am!
 

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Thanks for the replies guys. OneofAMillion+, when you're talking about putting in a catch can, are you meaning between the PCV valve and the spacer? Would I mount it to the rear of the apron?
Ideally you want the can low-ish so the vapors move down then back up to help drop the liquids, stainless mesh in the can that makes the air take turns also does this. Mine is tall and rectangular, it neatly fits on the rear of the shock tower almost atop the frame rail there. Barely noticeable.
 

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Ideally you want the can low-ish so the vapors move down then back up to help drop the liquids, stainless mesh in the can that makes the air take turns also does this. Mine is tall and rectangular, it neatly fits on the rear of the shock tower almost atop the frame rail there. Barely noticeable.
Cool, would you be able to send a picture of your catch can?
 

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Ideally you want the can low-ish so the vapors move down then back up to help drop the liquids, stainless mesh in the can that makes the air take turns also does this. Mine is tall and rectangular, it neatly fits on the rear of the shock tower almost atop the frame rail there. Barely noticeable.
I'd love to see pics of your catch can too and any details you'd care to share 1ofAMillion, hate the idea of recycling oil mist into my throat and coating the back of the intake valves....
 

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I'd love to see pics of your catch can too and any details you'd care to share 1ofAMillion, hate the idea of recycling oil mist into my throat and coating the back of the intake valves....
My theory......by recycling, as long as, your rings are in good working order, you reduce crankcase pressures. How does this benefit? This reduces downward pressure of the piston(s), while parasitic, still aids performance and burns noxious gases. I doubt your engine will suffer.
BTW, I run a closed PCV system and have for 15+ years. No smoke, no apparent reduction in performance. Just offering.....
 

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My theory......by recycling, as long as, your rings are in good working order, you reduce crankcase pressures. How does this benefit? This reduces downward pressure of the piston(s), while parasitic, still aids performance and burns noxious gases. I doubt your engine will suffer.
BTW, I run a closed PCV system and have for 15+ years. No smoke, no apparent reduction in performance. Just offering.....
Right, isn't that the purpose of the PCV system, create a little crankcase vacuum by connecting it to the intake? When you say 'closed' meaning no open air breather like was so common on old cars? If so, then all my new cars have em.

I've opened so many intakes where there was so much oil crap, black gunky dirty smudge from that crankcase mist. Man I'd like to keep it CLEAN down the tract, so I keep circling back to the idea of a catch can.

The bummer thing about a catch can is, at some point you need to empty it when it's full. They can't make 'em drain back into the crankcase or oil pan? Gotta change the oil anyways.
 

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I'd love to see pics of your catch can too and any details you'd care to share 1ofAMillion, hate the idea of recycling oil mist into my throat and coating the back of the intake valves....
This is the one I used.

https://www.amazon.com/DNA-Motoring-OCT-G-BK-Catch-Tank/dp/B01JQMC0VY/ref=sr_1_54?keywords=catch+can&qid=1570238306&sr=8-54

Not the best design but reading about the more expensive ones and what racers do ... I added a piece of 3/8 copper pipe I had, epoxied to the inlet side so that it sticks down into the can about 4" then put in two stainless steel scouring pads.
What i have yet to do is use the proper hoses, need vacuum/PVC hose. I used radiator hose I had on hand not knowing any better, It runs fine and doesnt leak vacuum but the rad hose will allow oil to pass through and funny part is it is only seeps after it sits. I guess the vapor molecules are smaller than H2O.
 

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20 years ago when I first started driving old Fords I had a 65 ranchero, with a 289. It was bored . 030 over, small cam, Holley 600, and full length headers. I didn't understand the need for PCV system then. I was running two breathers. I took a trip from Florida to Kansas. About shortly after starting out I started leaking oil from the front oil pan to main seal. I went through at least 20 quarts of oil trying to get up there. My uncle educated me on the importance of the PCV. I will never forget that mistake.
 
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