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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, new to the forum. I'd love some help with questions and resources.

brief history: 1966 GT Fastback 2+2 Ivy green, my grandpa worked in the parts department at Galpin Ford CA from 60s-80s. My great uncle bought this car brand new from Galpin motor sports and its had about 5 or 6 owners, all family members and multiple generations...for a brief moment it was mine in high school. Never left California, Never been seriously wrecked or damaged but one of my uncles scattered the original motor back in the 70s. My parents were the last to own it, my father had plans for it but got in a bad motorcycle wreck a couple years back and died. I recently bought it from my mom for a extremely good family price. It came with a new 302 that I know very little about.

Seeing as I don’t have a matching numbers motor, I want this car to be a driver. No serious custom fabrication but I’d like to do a modern disk brake conversion and some light performance suspension, upgrade the lights, mostly safety stuff so the car can be driven like intended. I’d really like to get it back to ivy green.

I plan on leaving the interior how it is. it’s actually in decent shape. The car needs to be rewired, motor/trans installed (still need to buy a new trans but do have a core), and light body work+painted at the very least. Ideally suspension and brakes too but that could be down the road (budget pending).

I live in Southern California, if anyone has some trusted shop suggestions that would be willing and more importantly able, that'd be greatly appreciated. I’m 32, I don’t have money coming out of my ******* so I’m not looking for some top of the line famous shop... I most importantly want to be able to trust them and know it’s done right. I know that’s one big oxymoron but bear with me.

anyone have an idea of what kind of price range I’m looking at? I realize how stupid this question is because of the many variables but I’d like an educated guess.

This is the 302 I have too many questions about to rightfully own 😂 Will this fit under a stock hood? Anyone have an estimated guess of what kind of horsepower this is going to put out? I know it’s a shot in the dark when guessing what’s inside here
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and Here’s the car
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Thanks for your time!
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CoNgRaTuLaTiOnS!!
You have inherited a car some will only dream of finding and affording.
The 302, depending on cam etc will make anywhere from 250 to 300 hp probably and is a great engine for cruising that car.
The suspension will be great when just stock parts are replaced with stock, there are some great updates with Mustang vendors or companies like Street or Track, depends on how much you want to spend.
Brakes are very adequate with these lightweight cars, front discs are a plus (factory option are Kelsey Hayes type 4 piston) and rear discs are more of a bling thing.
1) Get your engine in and running reliably
2) get the trans in and mated to the engine and rest of the drivetrain
3) get the brakes, steering box (highly recommend VMF member @CHOCK for that and the brakes) and other steering parts in place
4) THEN drive the car, work out the bugs, and after it's all safe, focus on the appearance
5) above all, ask questions and HAVE FUN !!

EDIT: I just saw the dual 4 barrels on the engine pic, and that's either gonna be too much carb or you have yourself one helluva engine there !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the info. And yes I realize how stupidly lucky I am to have this opportunity but I also watched my dad fatally crash a motorcycle ten feet away from me before he turned 60. You win some, you lose some.
My dad and mom had the motor built by PAW which was once a staple. I was hoping someone could get an idea off of the spec sheet. I know this is as noob as it gets but all replies are appreciated haha
 

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Unfortunately the spec sheet you showed us a pic of is just the machine sheet - what you really need are the cam specs (lift/duration/LSA) which will tell you how radical the motor is. It sure does look pretty though! Yes, it will fit in your car with no modifications. A 302 is nearly exactly the same as a 289.

Are you planning on doing any work yourself? The answer about costs will vary based on your answer. Paint is your biggest cost and will run you anywhere from $7500 to $20,000 in California, depending on if you go for enamel or base/clear, where you live, etc. Your car looks really straight with original metal so that is a huge boon for you, as bodywork gets expensive fast.

In parts alone, you can expect roughly:
  • Brakes: $1000-1500 (depending on what you need new, what can be rebuilt, etc.)
  • Suspension: $500-2000 (replace all parts, bushings, springs, etc. - stock with low-end shocks will run you closer to $500, upgrading shocks, spring perches, and strut rods (usually recommended, especially for a higher-HP car) will cost you more)
  • Wiring: $500-1200 (depending on if you get your harness refurbed by Midlife (forum board member who does wiring harnesses), vs buy new aftermarket American Autowire, vs buy new repro OEM stock)
  • Lights: $200-300 (upgrade headlights to halogens on relays, upgrade taillights to LED)

That's just the cost of parts. Labor is usually charged at somewhere between 50-150 an hour depending on shop and your location. It's been a while since I've seen someone doing 50, especially in California.

Hope that helps. And sorry about your dad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Kelly! Killer info, I wish I could find the other paperwork that came with it but that’s a long shot. Id feel in over my head doing it myself. I bought this off my mom a couple years back, just now getting to the point where I might be able to afford getting it done by a pro. I was hoping to have some shop suggestions and an idea of what I’m in for.
 

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Wellllll... ballparking wildly based on what your car needs installed/repaired/painted.... based on a general SoCal location... I'd guess it would cost you $30k to $60k to have it restored professionally by an average good shop, and likely it would take 3-5 years. Possibly longer, if better-paying projects bump you down the line.

That's pretty much why this forum exists - everyone sees those numbers and time frames and goes "nah I think I can figure this out myself" and down the rabbithole we all go :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
😂 **** me. I was thinking 20-30k. Now I need a recession to hit(kidding). Would taking it out of state to be done a stupid idea?
 

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Do it yourself, save the $ and have the self satisfaction of a job well done. I can do anything but outside body work with a high degree of satisfaction. I have to rely on someone else for that...and PAW ... oh yeah. That's who I consulted for all my materials and advice, found a great local builder to help me learn, and my small block is still punishing pavement 28 years later!
 

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1966 Mustang Hardtop 289 4 Speed
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Welcome to the forum and congrats on acquiring your original family's car. Roll the car outside and take some decent pics showing it's condition. It's pretty tough to offer bodywork advice only seeing a partial car. How does the bottom of it look, floor, frame rails, trunk interior, etc.
 

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😂 **** me. I was thinking 20-30k. Now I need a recession to hit(kidding). Would taking it out of state to be done a stupid idea?
First of all, sorry about your father's tragic accident.

Not at all crazy for going out of state. But your ability to check on things, and chances of getting ripped off go higher. It also costs about a grand or more to get it transported these days.

Reading what Kelly_H Wrote 7500 - 20000 for paint just made me think....holy moly at least there is one thing in California that is cheaper than D.C. LOL

I am looking into a couple places I follow in South Carolina and Futtbuck Virginia that seem to have good reputations. I've also seen one in Chicago that is well known. The mustang Doctor "Doc Ingrassia" and his sons.

I had my car running in a matter of months once I had it, and an engine & transmission ready to go in using a shop facility on an Army base. I was just a dealership autoshop tech for a few years after high school. I really had to relearn everything for the Classic Mustangs just like everyone else, but you don't need to be an ace or a ninja with your hands to get these cars running.
National Parts, Depot, CJ Ponyparts, and local Mustang supply shops, Kentucky, Missouri, and Virginia Mustang. Are what many of us use. I spent probably 15-20k on parts, interior on mine doing most things myself but I am a stickler for using the best stuff and made everything mechanically new. I still need to do a repaint.

Everything I did at the base with shop lifts you can do at home, it just takes a while longer and some equipment purchases. Hopefully there are Harbor Freight stores near you. Those are like what Sears/Craftsman was 20 or 30 years ago. You can cut a lot of the costs by doing mechanical easy work. Save the big ****** bucks for the paint shop. That isn't something most people can do at home and get good results from. Though I know a few guys AND gals who have.

The good thing about a fastback is that 15, 20, 30k isn't a bad investment when those are worth 50-60k and rising. Where as our coupes....not nearly as much 20-30 tops for most.
 

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You’re getting a lot of good advice, so I’ll try not to rehash what’s been said. Bottom line is if you’re not able or willing to do the lion’s share of the work yourself, it gets very, very costly. To put it another way, if you were able to find a professional to do everything that car needs for $20-30k, there would be a ton of corners cut and you probably would be very disappointed with the result.

I live in Kansas, about as cheap of a state as it comes, and it’s costing me about $10k to change my color from red to blue. Very quality work, but not high-end custom. That’s on a complete/solid car that required no significant body work or disassembly/reassembly. That also does not include any of the other work (motor, trans, wiring, interior, etc.). It’s the only part of the build I can afford to farm out.
 
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Very sorry about the way your car became available to you through the loss of your dad. As has been already mentioned, your car is very desirable. Sounds like you have been educating yourself about the car, and coming here is a good resource for brain picking. These cars are simple to work on, and there may even be forum members near you that could help with some hands on stuff and guidance. Do you have garage space to work on the car if you decide to tackle some of it yourself? If you go the route of turning your car over to a shop to do the work, I advise searching out some car clubs near you to get some personal recommendations from folks that were happy with the shop they used. Personally visit any shop you are considering, and get a feel for the shop. Have a set guideline for the level of work expected and timelines to work to. There will always be unexpected surprises that will pop up when digging in to a car. Enjoy your car, and may it bring great memories of your dad every time you interact with it.
 

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@Hoover88 I was in the same boat a few years ago. Got a 66 convertible and knew nothing about cars. With the help of this forum, a good set of tools, the internet, and a good shop manual, I was able to replace, wiring, front and rear suspension, engine, trans, and differential. I had zero experience working on cars. Farm out the paint and body work and do the rest yourself.

Become familiar with NPD's website. Get these: 66 shop Manual and these Jim Osborne. The Jim Osborne manuals are awesome. I refer to it everytime I do anything on my car. There is also a Youtube channel AutoResto Mod that has great videos on how to do things like swap out suspension, windows mechanisms and such. Well worth looking at.

You can do this. Just ask tons of questions here.
 

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67 Fastback T5 331 TCI Frt End, Canted 4 link rear susp
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My experience with trying to find a shop to paint my Mustang was that the shops that specialize in restoration work will only do it THEIR WAY. This is understandable, since they will be "putting their name on it", but I wasn't looking to build a show car. When I told them my budget was around $10K they actually laughed, or said "good luck". My body was straight and 99% rust free. Most people said think about $15-20K.
I couldn't justify that kind of money and had accepted the fact I would leave it as is. Someone recommended a small local shop. The owner use to teach body work in the local Technical High school and he had a shop with about 4-5 guys. This shop did the usual collision repair, but he did take in 2-3 "clean driver" jobs a year. Long story short, I got it done for $10K and I'm happy with the outcome. So my advise is to look for that needle in the haystack shop. You'll have plenty of time while you do the mechanicals, since paint is usually the last thing.
 

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I’m sorry for the loss of your father.

Great project! These cars are straightforward to work on and don’t require very many specialized tools. You can get it mechanically sound and drivable yourself and get it painted with the money you save there.

Rusty
 
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Welcome! On these cars the engines other then the high performance K 289 didn't have the VIN stamped on the block. So there's really no way of positively confirming even the engine that came in the car from the factory is original. If you come to that point what you want is that the casting dates and date stamped on the top left of the block by the water pump is within about a week window of the build date of the car itself.

The factory brakes are actually pretty good. They're the KH 4 piston caliper. They're still very popular today for these cars with parts relatively available. You can even get high performance pads. The rear drum are plenty good. So other then maybe rebuilding them is really all you're going to need

Suspension, again lots and lots available. Other then a good basic rebuild and a few minor modifications will make them drive and handle very well. The popular mod is the Arning or AKA Shelby drop. This is nothing more then drilling two holes one inch down and one eigth back. It makes a dramatic improvement.

Your 302 will be fine. I see it has Edelbrock aluminum heads and their dual four barrel set up. Normally this is way over kill but Edelbrock spent the time to make it work correctly. Personally I would just run the motor as is and see how you like it. It's there, you have it and it's new. Why spend money?

I say get the car running and driving as is. Get familiar with it. This will guide you to any changes you'd like to make down the road. Your goal is to have fun with if. I can tell you, you're not going to have fun with any car in a pile of parts with lots of money spent with no end in sight to driving it! Forget about paint at this point. Patina and history of the car's travels and life are were it's at today

We're a pretty friendly large group here. I would maybe suggest roughly where you live. Probably a member close by who can help.

Here's my POS, not pretty but it's reliable and I'm having fun
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Welcome, very nice inheritance.

We have a Build Forum for projects like this, start a thread, I'd like to follow.
 

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Condolences on your loss, he sounds like a real car guy. As far as paint, try going to cruise in's, car shows, cars and coffee's. Find cars that have a look you like and ask where they had it painted. That's how we found a really good and reasonable painter here in Florida.
 

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Sorry for the loss of your father but you have a great car to remember him by. Of all of what you need done the easiest to diy is the wiring. For about 800 and a couple of days of your time you can have it all rewired using stock harnesses from alloy metal. There are a total of 5 harnesses.
1. Engine harness about 40.00
2. Front light harness. About 100
3. Wiper motor harness about 50.00
4. Rear tail light harness about 100.
5. Underdash harness about 500-600.
All are readily available from most mustang part venders but insist on alloy metals. Wiring diagrams are available in either print or internet versions. Even being new it should only take a few days to rewire the whole car. Take pictures of how things came out. The hardest part is getting the plugs out of the firewall but it will be easier with now engine in your way.... Good luck
 
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