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When I purchased the car the owner had installed a Ford electronic ignition. I can find the ignition control modules online with 2 connectors but I'm not seeing a dizzy with the two connectors. My setup has the two connectors coming from the ICM and connecting to the dizzy harness with two connectors, although some of the wires go to the choke and coil? Maybe he put them in the same loom/conduit, not sure if there is a factory setup for a dizzy with two connectors? I was thinking it was like 77-82 somewhere in those years. See attached pics. Also are these dizzy ICM any good? My car seems to be running fine with them.
 

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I recently put a Duraspark on my car. It starts up much quicker and easier not to mention idling and driving smoother. Good everyday street unit. Most of them are what is called a "blue strain relief" On the back you'll se a strip of plastic holding the wires. That's the strain relief. There is a CA version called a red strain relief. This one puts out a super hot spak, gap is something like .060" and will fire a super lean fuel mixture that the blue version won't. The red version coil uses a full 12 volts and it senses if the engine is running or not. If not running, it doesn't energize the coil.
 

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Also, if you want to get rid of the FUGLY Duraspark Cap, you can use an HEI style (AL482) for those plug wires from an '79 IH 5.6/5.7. it's small dia, black, and just use a standard ford points rotor with it. You may need to file out a little notch to clear the screw head on the vacuum pod. Just use the lower base as a template.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=42872&jsn=778

Note: Ford went with the larger cap to reduce cross-fire. I haven't noticed any issues with the smaller cap and I spin mine up to 6k all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also, if you want to get rid of the FUGLY Duraspark Cap, you can use an HEI style (AL482) for those plug wires from an '79 IH 5.6/5.7. it's small dia, black, and just use a standard ford points rotor with it. You may need to file out a little notch to clear the screw head on the vacuum pod. Just use the lower base as a template.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=42872&jsn=778

Note: Ford went with the larger cap to reduce cross-fire. I haven't noticed any issues with the smaller cap and I spin mine up to 6k all the time.
Yes good suggestion as I would like to get rid of the FUGLY big cap as it also bumps up against my air cleaner a tiny bit. So I just need a regular rotor and it will work the same as I have on it now?
 

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Yes good suggestion as I would like to get rid of the FUGLY big cap as it also bumps up against my air cleaner a tiny bit. So I just need a regular rotor and it will work the same as I have on it now?
You need a AL482 cap and a standard rotor. I think I used a FD311 rotor. I would need to check.
 

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The DII big cap wasn't fugly enough for me so I went with an MSD cap. Whee!


After realizing it made my eyes hurt, I took it back off and sprayed it with black wrinkle paint to match my valve covers. Just sayin. Next time I'll probably give Hidalgo's parts choices a go.
 

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You need a AL482 cap and a standard rotor. I think I used a FD311 rotor. I would need to check.
Ordered!

I also found a Red Tab Stress Relief ignition module NOS on Ebay, so I will be installing it too. My CR is 10:1. I re-gapped my plugs last night to .52 and car wasn't running so great in the mid to upper rpm pull...seemed like it was missing a bit. I currently have a Blue tab control module.
 

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I recently put a Duraspark on my car. It starts up much quicker and easier not to mention idling and driving smoother. Good everyday street unit. Most of them are what is called a "blue strain relief" On the back you'll se a strip of plastic holding the wires. That's the strain relief. There is a CA version called a red strain relief. This one puts out a super hot spak, gap is something like .060" and will fire a super lean fuel mixture that the blue version won't. The red version coil uses a full 12 volts and it senses if the engine is running or not. If not running, it doesn't energize the coil.
I purchased a red version...I have a Jacob's Super Coil...is it going to work with the red tab, it works fine with the blue tab.
 

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Ordered!

I also found a Red Tab Stress Relief ignition module NOS on Ebay, so I will be installing it too. My CR is 10:1. I re-gapped my plugs last night to .52 and car wasn't running so great in the mid to upper rpm pull...seemed like it was missing a bit. I currently have a Blue tab control module.
Red strain relief is a Duraspark I module which uses NO ballast resistor and an HEI coil. It's integrated circuitry modulates dwell angle according to rpm.

Besides the "Blue Tab" box the "White Tab" box is also in high demand due to its built-in timing-retard-in-start mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Red strain relief is a Duraspark I module which uses NO ballast resistor and an HEI coil. It's integrated circuitry modulates dwell angle according to rpm.

Besides the "Blue Tab" box the "White Tab" box is also in high demand due to its built-in timing-retard-in-start mode.
What would i need to do to my current system to run it? I'm assuming changing the DSII dizzy and lose the Jacobs coil?
 

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What would i need to do to my current system to run it? I'm assuming changing the DSII dizzy and lose the Jacobs coil?

Pretty much any electronic (no points) distributor can be used to "trigger" any electronic module. You just have to figure out which wires in the distributor connect to which terminals on the module. Fortunately there are diagrams on the interweb that show how to wire a DSII distributor to all of the popular modules (Ford, Mopar GM, MSD, etc.). And with a proper coil you don't need a resistor.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
You need a AL482 cap and a standard rotor. I think I used a FD311 rotor. I would need to check.
FYI - lol this cap doesn't even come close to fitting the distributor I have in the pic. It would take an entirely different base or dizzy to work. No big deal as Rock Auto accepts returns very easy.
 

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FYI - lol this cap doesn't even come close to fitting the distributor I have in the pic. It would take an entirely different base or dizzy to work. No big deal as Rock Auto accepts returns very easy.
Did you remove the plastic spacer (I think Ford calls it an adapter) between the cap and the distributor housing?
 

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