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Discussion Starter #1
Been a while since i had and engine with a solid lifter cam. Got a 66 Shelby 350 Clone ,I am building for a guy and he brought me a new 289 bored .30 over. A neat looking engine job. The engine builder set them at .025" cold.

Is this right ?? I am sure after break-in, they will need checking/adjusting again. What should the be set then ? Any help or guidance is appreciated.
Johnny66 in SC ....where boys are boys and the sheep are alway nervous!! ;)
 

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I'd probably set them tighter than that cold, but I'd look at the cam card first. I've got what seems to be a stock HiPo cam, and on the advice of the VMF I have it lashed tighter than stock, something like .022 cold (haven't run the car in almost 3 years so I don't remember :lol: )
 

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Most Comp Cams solids for 289/302 are .022. They do have a modern version of the hi-po cam called nostalgia plus that has a .012.
 

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Johnny66 said:
One other question I forgot to ask...Are intake and exhaust set the same ???
Not necessarily, mine are:
Intake cold - .018"
Exhaust cold - .022"

per the cam card and has worked perfect for 3 yrs that the car has been on the road.
 

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Johnny66 said:
One other question I forgot to ask...Are intake and exhaust set the same ???
As reference only, the Comp Cams catalog shows those numbers for both intake and exhaust. To get the real deal, you need the cam card or the cam grind/part number.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks guys !!! I will contact the owner and see if he can get ahold of the Engine Builder to get the cam card with specs.
 

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Once you find out more about the cam, let us know.

For example, a Comp 282S is designed for a Chevy diameter lifter. Therefore, it can be much tighter than .022 for a Ford diameter lifter. .012 would not be a problem. I set mine to .016 cold to err on the safe side. I have iron heads so the lash will not change very much as the engine warms up...if the engine has aluminum heads, lash will change appreciably more as things heat up.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will give an update when I find out. Thanks for the information. The engine has Cast Iron heads with 4 barrel valves.

So...Has Arnold put out most of the fires in SCal }:| ? My sister lives in Canyon Country, north of LA....I told her dont get excited...We call that a Bar-be-que! :p
 

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If the cam is not stock then DO NOT use the method detailed by the shop manual. The valves may still be open even at the crankshaft locations specified by the book.

The best method is EOIC (Exhaust Open, Intake Closed). In other words set the intake as the exhaust starts to open and set the exhaust as the intake starts to close.
 

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Here is an easy alternative solid lifter adjustment method I have been using for years. Turn the engine over by hand or better yet use a push button starter switch. Adjusting the intakes first, bump the engine over until cylinder #1 exhaust rocker just starts to go down. When it moves, set the intake clearance. Go through all the intakes cylinder by cylinder using this method, and then move to the exhaust valves. Bump the engine over until the intake rocker on cylinder #1 starts to close (rocker moves up). Then adjust the exhaust valve. Go through all the exhaust rockers using this method. Try it, you'll like it!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks everyone! I got ahold of the Engine builder...the cam card said .018" for both I &E.
Well I fired it off last night with only the "H" pipes connected. It is "one mean machine" :thumbup: . I will check the setting again after 500miles and a oil change !!! Big Jim the owner wanted to take the car right then...but I still need to finish the exhaust and Pony interior. It will be a real head turner.
Thanks Johnny66 in SC....where boys are boys and the sheep are alway nervous!! :p
 
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