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When I replaced my u-joints I tried to get solid ones(not cross drilled) and was told that they weren't made in my u-joint sizes. I wound up just getting plain old cross drilled Spicer u-joints. Well with my new 8 inch converter this concern has come up again. Since I have the driveshaft and yoke down right now this is the time to fix this if I can.

I mentioned my concern about snapping u-joints to a friend that runs dirt track cars and owns a shop. He said he should be able to get me some factory solid u-joints that were made for 4 x 4 trucks. I'm unclear on this part but he said they would fit if they used my cups? with the solid 4 x 4 cross pieces? Whatever, LOL. I'm taking my driveshaft and yoke over there tomorrow to let him have a go at it. If this works out I will post again with the results for whomever would be interested in this sort of thing.



You can see my 65 fastback at: http://hottarod.stangnet.com/
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FORD TSB 97-20-15 gives universal joint size, usage and changeover information.

In general;

1310 STD. U-JOINT FITZ 4635-C
1330 STD. U-JOINT F2TZ 4635-B
1350 STD. U-JOINT F3TZ 4635-A

All of these are solid.
 

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I've never had a bit of problems with regular u-joints in racing service as long as the grease zerk hole was in compression....

I've had the same 1330 series Spicers in the race car since the mid 80's and they still look like new when I've checked them during maintenance cycles...

Remember, this is a car that does not have any tire spin and has a spool...

If you were using a trans brake and running the engine up to 4 grand and releasing it and had outstanding traction, I'd worry about u-joints...

Also, my race car uses and unequal length 4 link to locate the rear so the pinion angle is precisely maintained....this is another area to watch out for.....spring wrap up and housing twist....
I do use leaf springs to hold up the car but the housing is around 10" narrower than stock and is reinforced...

It's somewhat interesting to mount a camera to watch the gyrations the rear end goes through at the track...I tried but couldn't get the vibration mount damped enough to give me meaningful info on the details....

IMO, keep things aligned and balanced and located correctly under power and most any quality u-joint made for the app will work.

Pat
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