[markiemark9]

I bought a 69 convertible this weekend and it already has a 5.0 HO motor in it. I am looking for advice on the following (I know nothing about these motors specifically)

• There is no dipstick nor a provision on the pan for one to enter it. I assume I have an aftermarket pan on it )it's painted to match those awful valve covers). Does this motor somehow have a place in the block casting instead where the dip stick enters?
• Where does the block have stampings/casting marks that identify it? I want to be sure someone didn't just change the name plate on top of the manifold.
• This car overheats quickly. The radiator cap on it is a 14-18lb cap and it releases if I idle the car more than 15 min. The electric fan also comes on in that time. Nothing changes when driving either (based on a test of driving it around the block a handful of times). I see coolant flowing if I idle the car with the cap off. Suggestions?
• Do all valve covers for Ford 5.0 EFI engines work for this motor or are there certain ones it needs? Again, are there casting marks on the heads somewhere to identify them? The ones on there have the filler neck chopped off and they are ugly as sin.

 

[BlakeTX]

The dipstick should be behind the alternator. The procedure for this swap is usually to swap to a vintage style front sump pan, which means you can't use the factory 5.0 dipstick location (which gets plugged). A hole is drilled in the timing cover and the location for a stock vintage car is used to fit with the pan.

For castings, look over the starter (easier said than done) and for the heads, pop off a valve cover and see what you find on top of the head.

For cooling, it could be any number of things. The first things I would do would be to put a 12lb cap on it and a thermostat controller for the fan so it comes on earlier, before it vents. Then assess things from there.

On the valve covers, the short answer is it depends what rockers you have under there. If they're stamped steel, you can use whatever you want. If they're big billet roller rockers, you either need something taller, or you have to get creative with spacers or stacked gaskets. Something like that. But put simply, 289 valve covers bolt on.

 

[Professor Fate]

Serpentine belt so you should have a reverse rotation water pump (someone will correct me if I'm wrong). Is the fan correct for this? Does it blow air out the radiator instead of sucking it in?

 

[BradAlbrecht]

I have a couple sets of those original valve covers that came with my project, if you're interested. The ones I took off were from a 92 HO 5.0. The ones that came in the bin look identical. I might even have a third set that look slightly different. Pay for shipping and they are yours. Message me if interested.

I personally went with something different because I changed the heads. I am sure you could also get something more flashy, but they are in the $200 range.

 

[markiemark9]

I have a couple sets of those original valve covers that came with my project, if you're interested. The ones I took off were from a 92 HO 5.0. The ones that came in the bin look identical. I might even have a third set that look slightly different. Pay for shipping and they are yours. Message me if interested.

I personally went with something different because I changed the heads. I am sure you could also get something more flashy, but they are in the $200 range.

Message sent, thanks!

 

[wilit]

The dipstick hole for the 5.0 is on the driver side of the block, just above the pan rail. But because the '69 is a front sump pan, you can't use the 5.0 dipstick because it's for a rear sump pan. You need to swap out the timing cover for a pre-'80's style cover to get the dipstick. Or you need to find an oil pan with the dipstick tube built in.

Also, those aren't aftermarket valve covers, they're stock 5.0 valve covers painted red. You need to use EFI era valve covers because the oil filler cap is on the passenger side cover, where as carb'd valve covers are on the drivers side which the upper plenum will block.

 

[BlakeTX]

The dipstick hole for the 5.0 is on the driver side of the block, just above the pan rail. But because the '69 is a front sump pan, you can't use the 5.0 dipstick because it's for a rear sump pan. You need to swap out the timing cover for a pre-'80's style cover to get the dipstick. Or you need to find an oil pan with the dipstick tube built in.

Also, those aren't aftermarket valve covers, they're stock 5.0 valve covers painted red. You need to use EFI era valve covers because the oil filler cap is on the passenger side cover, where as carb'd valve covers are on the drivers side which the upper plenum will block.

It’s a very simple job to drill the late model timing cover for the dip stick. If memory serves, the alternator bracket also needs a hole for it to pass through.

Also, the oil fill issue is certainly worth mentioning, but it’s not insurmountable. The right funnel will take care of that just fine.

 

[markiemark9]

Gr

The dipstick hole for the 5.0 is on the driver side of the block, just above the pan rail. But because the '69 is a front sump pan, you can't use the 5.0 dipstick because it's for a rear sump pan. You need to swap out the timing cover for a pre-'80's style cover to get the dipstick. Or you need to find an oil pan with the dipstick tube built in.

Also, those aren't aftermarket valve covers, they're stock 5.0 valve covers painted red. You need to use EFI era valve covers because the oil filler cap is on the passenger side cover, where as carb'd valve covers are on the drivers side which the upper plenum will block.

Very helpful, thank you!

 

[markiemark9]

It’s a very simple job to drill the late model timing cover for the dip stick. If memory serves, the alternator bracket also needs a hole for it to pass through.

Also, the oil fill issue is certainly worth mentioning, but it’s not insurmountable. The right funnel will take care of that just fine.

Super helpful! Any write-ups online about drilling the late model timing cover that you know about?

 

[665spd]

Super helpful! Any write-ups online about drilling the late model timing cover that you know about?

Here are pics from my '66 5.0 build...

Here's the hole for the original dipstick that will ID your block and must be plugged and the dual sump oil pan that won't fit our cars.

 

[665spd]

The valve covers are thick cast aluminum that don't leak and don't look too bad in classic color!

 

[wilit]

It’s a very simple job to drill the late model timing cover for the dip stick. If memory serves, the alternator bracket also needs a hole for it to pass through.

Also, the oil fill issue is certainly worth mentioning, but it’s not insurmountable. The right funnel will take care of that just fine.

Depends on which timing cover he has. Some have a crankshaft position sensor where the dipstick tube would go.

 

[BlakeTX]

Depends on which timing cover he has. Some have a crankshaft position sensor where the dipstick tube would go.

That’s a standard rotation water pump cover, which a fox body HO wouldn’t have. Unless there’s been some screwball parts sourcing into his engine, that’s not going to be a factor.

 

[markiemark9]

@BlakeTX @wilit
Here is the passenger side of my cover:

 

[BlakeTX]

Perfect. There’s the boss for the dipstick. Here’s a write up you may find handy:

EFI 5.0 install

 

[markiemark9]

Perfect. There’s the boss for the dipstick. Here’s a write up you may find handy:

EFI 5.0 install

Exactly what I needed! Thank you!

 

[markiemark9]

UPDATE: Thanks to @BlakeTX, @665spd and @wilit - I think i have the dip stick bit sorted out. @BradAlbrecht came thru with some replacement valve covers and I have the cooling issues sorted out. Thanks again for all the help!

 

[BlakeTX]

Cool, what was the cooling fix?

 

[markiemark9]

Cool, what was the cooling fix?

Beyond flushing out the old nasty fluid and ensuring the system was burped fully, I found that there was a challenge with the cooling system pressurizing fully. This was caused by the overflow nipple on the radiator being left open. I capped this (for now until I get an overflow reservoir) and let the motor fully warm up. It reached 195, the thermostat opened and then the temp dropped back into the normal range. Dumb question: Should my lower radiator hose be much cooler than the top radiator hose? To the touch the top one was hot but the lower one was simply warm (all based on a 20 min idle in the driveway).

 

[Matter]

Your radiator cap controls the overflow nipple being open. If coolant is coming out the overflow tube with the cap on at normal temperatures then you probably have a defective cap.