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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody installed any Sound Deadener in their Stang ? So many brands Dynamat, Hush Mat, B-Quiet, etc.
Which is good for the price ?
How much do you need to do a whole interior ?
How do you do the doors ?
Any suggestions or helpful hints ?
Would like to do my ’68.
 

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I'd use Cascade from somewhere like www.partsexpress.com Dynamat is way overpriced IMHO. I know reenmachine used Cascade on the SuperSnake vert clonomod and liked it.

You'll need a clean, clean surface to attach it to, I'd wash it and dry it, then wipe down with alchol before you apply the deadener.

I'm almost ready to do my '66 interior, probably here in a few weeks. I'll be using Cascade products from PartsExpress.
HTH
--Kyle
 

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I used the Damplifier from Second Skin Audio. Cost was well under $100. I completely covered the floors from firewall to beneath rear seats, sill to sill, and used about 40 sq. ft, with maybe 3 or 4 ft. left over.
I also laid the factory asphaltic insulation over that before carpeting. MAJOR difference in the sound level in the car. Although sometimes I miss the full volume "burble" of the exhaust, it sure makes long drives less tiring, and listening to a nice stereo a lot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #4

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Discussion Starter #5
Daniel
Did you do the doors too ?

Ralph
 

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I haven't done my Mustang yet, but I just finished adding sound deadner to my 1966 Ford Fairlane 500 XL. I read all the blogs including the car stereo forum one where the guy compared many of the mainstream products (Dynamat, Brown Bread, etc.) as well as an asphalt based/aluminum skinned product used as roof flashing called Peel and Seal. Peel and Seal is sold by Lowe's and others. The conclusion of the (nonscientific but well thought out) study was that if you have decided to use an asphalt based product, there is no difference between the expensive, name brand products and Peel and Seal. Peel and Seal comes in (I think) 13 foot rolls six inches wide and costs $13-14 per roll.

I went wild with Peel and Seal and covered the entire floor, firewall, doors, cowl, and panel between the passenger compartment and trunk. I also used a relatively new product called TAC mat made by Dynamat. It's about 1/4" thick and very lightweight. Costs about $65 for 13 square feet. I used TAC mat to cover the firewall over the Peel and Seal, but mainly to cover the inside of the outer door skins. The doors now close with an authoritative "ca-chunck" and there are absolutely, positively no rattles or vibrations even with the new "off the hook" sound system turned waaay up! It's now very quiet on the road with the windows up even with the semi-obnoxious Flowmasters sounding off. Go for it!
 

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I started with Dynamat because I got a very good deal on it about five years ago. I have squares of it in the door, interior, and part of the trunk. The main problem I had with it is that the adhesive isn't very good and I had to use contact cement to get the vertical pieces to hold.

I switched to B-Quiet for the rest of the car, and it is great. Easy to install, the price isn't bad, and it's capable of cutting the decibels from the 390. On the interior and trunk floor, I overlaid it with Reflectix from Home Depot, to cut the heat, and jute carpet padding (also from Home Depot). It's quiet, cool, and comfy in the interior, yet I can still hear the 390 quite well when I stomp on it....not that I would ever do that. :winkgrin:
 

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Daniel
Did you do the doors too ?

Ralph
Nope, just the floors. I had thoughts of doing the doors, trunk, etc., but I really just wanted a little sound insulation in the cabin from road noise and the dual exhaust, and cut down on some of the heat from the trans and exhaust, not make it ride like a Cadillac :: . Besides, I've just got a stock 289, and that stuff is heavy! ;)
 

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Oh, and by the way, I used Laurie's suggestion for using the rounded handle end of a screwdriver to get the squares down into the every contour of the floor, and it worked perfectly! :highfive:
 

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http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/


I wish there was a company/website that has compared the actual insulating/sound deadening to see which one actually performs the best. Sure the peel and seal may look like the rest, but once the car heats up and the asphalt melts does it still have the insulating and sound deadening properties when it was new? The above website basically compares the adhesion properties, but I'm more interested in seeing which one blocks more sound and heat. I mean, afterall, that is what we are getting it for.
 

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check out aircraft spruce speciality they sell a variety of sound deadening materials for aircraft interiors a much higher noise environment than a mustang.
 
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