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I just finished up seam sealing all the interior seams and was wondering what everybody uses either lizard skin or Dynamat, or if you used another type of material before the carpets are installed, thanks for any information,Pete
 

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It’s been a while since I did mine but I bought a 4x8 sheet of foil backed jute padding. I used the old underlayment as a pattern and cut new pieces to lay in as covering for the bare floor before laying carpet over the top. Still in place many years later and is working well as a sound deadner and insulation barrier. Other benefit is if the car ever gets wet on the inside, it just lifts out and can be dried in the sun pretty easily or new piece installed if needed.
 

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i used the NPD "new style" for mine
just did the 4 seats and hump. not trunk or under rear seat
 

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If you are interested in getting a good education on effective sound deadening, I previously posted a pointer to some information that may be helpful. The website "Sound Deadener Showdown" has some straight-forward information on automotive sound attenuation. Unfortunately, the owner, Don Sambrook, retired last February and is no longer sourcing any products. However, he did say he would keep the information on his website up for a year. I checked today and found it is still there. It is well worth a look. The most effective sound deadening solution is a system of products and techniques.

Here's a link to the previous thread. My post is #17 - the last one.
 

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I just finished up seam sealing all the interior seams and was wondering what everybody uses either lizard skin or Dynamat, or if you used another type of material before the carpets are installed, thanks for any information,Pete
Fat Mat https://www.fatmat.com/
I used this on my '65 FB when I redid the interior prior to our Minnesota trip. Only area I didn't do was under the still original headliner and top of the firewall on DS(did PS firewall as heater box was out to replace the heater core). Did the inside of the quarters top to bottom as far back as I could reach, and the floor all the way to the front of the gas tank and also in the doors.
It made a big difference.
I used the thicker 80 mil version called Rattle Trap. Used the non-logo version 50 sq ft roll(s) $110. Comes with a roller and a cheap utility knife(use a real utility knife). Cut it using a big metal square and a thin piece of plywood under the cutting area. Most of the install I did not use the roller, using your hand, knuckles, handle of the roller, butt end of the utility knife is what will really get it into the nooks and crannies. Where a pair of gloves when smoothing out with your hands, it will turn your hands grey/silver.

I also used this on the cab of my '65 F100. Every where, in the cab, doors, behind the gas tank, etc. I had the truck doors off and empty to redo all the rubber and window felt so was able to cover from edge to edge. Really helped A LOT.
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I also covered the back side of the rear panels with Frost King Duct Insulation (Lowes, Home Depot, etc.).
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I used Frost King as well. Note that there is a difference between sound insulation and sound DEADENER. Sound insulation does just what it does... insulates one area from another by filling the space with a sound absorbing material. Sound deadener uses its mass to absorb vibration that transmits sound. A combination of both, IMHO, is best. I used the Frost King in areas such as floors, under the rear seat, transition pan and firewall to absorb vibration (as well as reflect heat radiation) and mass-backed carpet as sound insulation.
 

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I won't ever put sound deadeners of any type on any of my cars again...any sound deadener in a mat is just asking for moisture problems since there are always air bubbles underneath them...and if liquid gets spilled in there, its a breeding ground for rot. Aside from that...if you ever work on your car, having to deal with sound deadener catching on fire when you have to weld a bracket on somewhere is just miserable. Its just not worth the problems it causes....if I HAD to put it on my car...I would use lizard skin instead of a mat...but for me...its and old car...its going to be noisier than a new car...I will deal with it.

Also...I will NEVER buy a car with sound deadener installed...too much potential of it hiding rot that I would otherwise be able to spot
 

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I did Dynamat in my car but didn't do the full coverage that others did. For me, I just go the big panel sections and other pieces I could fit. Overall, I'm pretty happy with the result as my car is generally fairly quiet from road noise. I highly recommend buying some titanium scissors from some place like Home Depot as they're really sharp and making cutting Dynamat much easier (especially if you're trying to get a small piece or something oddly shaped. They're pretty universal (great on carpet, too).

Be careful with the close you wear though if you don't tape the seams as kneeling over the Dynamat will cause the tar to push out the sides a bit and it makes a huge mess that's very hard to clean up and get out of clothes.
 

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I won't ever put sound deadeners of any type on any of my cars again...any sound deadener in a mat is just asking for moisture problems since there are always air bubbles underneath them...and if liquid gets spilled in there, its a breeding ground for rot. Aside from that...if you ever work on your car, having to deal with sound deadener catching on fire when you have to weld a bracket on somewhere is just miserable. Its just not worth the problems it causes....if I HAD to put it on my car...I would use lizard skin instead of a mat...but for me...its and old car...its going to be noisier than a new car...I will deal with it.

Also...I will NEVER buy a car with sound deadener installed...too much potential of it hiding rot that I would otherwise be able to spot
I don't disagree with some of this.
  • I took pics of my floors before installing the SD for future proof of condition if needed later.
  • I thought about what ifs, if repairs are needed due to some damage in the future but don't "plan" any welding in the areas where I installed it.
  • I try hard to stick to my motto of "No new holes & no zip ties" when building the cars. I'll fab a bracket to go off existing holes. That would include not welding unless needed for a repair. I agree, if you have doors, etc. with rot or damage that you will need to weld on in the future don't put sticky SD or even Lizard Skin on the metal.
  • If any liquid does get spilled it would be my fault if I didn't take the necessary steps to get it dried out sufficiently.
  • I drive the car enough(and did for 20+ years as a true daily driver to work, etc.), and on trips that I want to make it a little more enjoyable sound wise. I've taken the F100 on 3,000 mile trips too. They both still have enough of the old car charm (no cup holders, etc.) left even after the SD was installed. Heck, the newest thing I drive is a '94 Suburban with 300K on it.
  • I used Lizard Skin on the oldest son's '68 coupe + Frost King. The LS was better with heat than sound. Would used SD if I had it to do over, maybe with LS. Will some day be putting SD in the daughter's '66 Coupe we built 20 years ago and used the foil lined bubble pack.
  • Knelt all over the Fat Mat/Rattle Trap with no oozing out of black goop issues. It is very sticky and maybe leave some residue on clothes if touched on them a lot. Utility knife and a pair of those cheap Harbor Freight scissors (the freebies) worked for cutting, just clean them up with carb cleaner or the like.
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Hey everyone I am just finishing up my inlaws mustang getting the interior back in after a complete lizard skin ceramic insulation with lizard skin sound deadner. Night and Day difference in car feel and sound. I vouch for it best money spent. I have done the cheaper asphalt one at home depot etc they just aren't meant for cars. Dynomat and others are okay for a rattle panel but do a whole car its a mess of a time. Spray it forget it done move on plus those mats always remind you how much it sucks when the panels go back on and nothing fits right.
 

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I used SecondSkin Audio products on my car - 3 different types. DeAmplifier Pro to cut down on vibration (sound deadening), LuxuryLiner Pro (sound insulation), and then a brushable/rollable product (Spectrum) for inside doors and the roof. Made a huge difference IMO.

There are pics in my build thread if you’re interested (link in sig)
 

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Sprayed Lizard-skin, Put the Stinger Expert Roadkill RKX36B over that, followed by a roll of 4'x20' Car Thermo Insulation off amazon. Really nice inside the car now, can't hardly hear the Magnaflow exhausts. People outside the car can hardly hear the stereo when it's cranked. For sound totally worth the effort, not sure about the cold and heat yet, just finished the build.
 

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I used .080" Noico from Amazon. Very good price compared to some of the name brand popular choices . I can't comment on performance as the interior is still out of the car .
 

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Hey everyone I am just finishing up my inlaws mustang getting the interior back in after a complete lizard skin ceramic insulation with lizard skin sound deadner. Night and Day difference in car feel and sound. I vouch for it best money spent. I have done the cheaper asphalt one at home depot etc they just aren't meant for cars. Dynomat and others are okay for a rattle panel but do a whole car its a mess of a time. Spray it forget it done move on plus those mats always remind you how much it sucks when the panels go back on and nothing fits right.
Did you spray the ceramic and sound deadener both on the interior? or exterior?
Just curious since I haven't figured out what I am going to do yet.
It seems like the ceramic insulation on the outside would be more effective at keeping the heat out, but maybe it doesn't matter...
 

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Did you spray the ceramic and sound deadener both on the interior? or exterior?
Just curious since I haven't figured out what I am going to do yet.
It seems like the ceramic insulation on the outside would be more effective at keeping the heat out, but maybe it doesn't matter...
 

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On mine, we just sprayed other inside with both the insulation and sound deadening Lizard Skin. I cannot explain how much of a difference it made in the sound quality of the car.
I am currently working on a 1978 Ford F250 Crew cab and have installed Dynamat. It's a pain to install, in my opinion, it's pretty messy as previous member stated it gets all over your clothes, and it's very expensive to use.
If I had it to go over with, I would have lizard skinned it as well, but thought I would give something else a try.
It did quieten the truck quite a bit, but for the money, aggravation, and time, it better!
 

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I did a combination of lizard skin and second skin audio products. I used the lizard skin as a first coat on flat interior surfaces - floor pans, inside of doors and inside of quarter panel trunk. Used the second skin vibration damper on same flat surfaces except I didn't put it on the inside of the quarters. Then used the second skin luxury liner below carpet and trunk mat, below the stock sound insulation. It really made a big difference. In a convertible with the top up - the trunk becomes a big bass drum since all that is between you and the trunk is a vinyl well liner. Add an aggressive sounding exhaust and it becomes unbearable. This really helped - the only problem now is with the top up I can hear all the creaks and rattles :)
 
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