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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well...I'm about to embark on my first major modification for my car. please bare with me.

I finally found a junk yard with a Granada in it so I'm going to go look for my Disc brake swap. A couple of questions. It is a pick and pull junk yard, so I'll be doing it myself. First off...I do not have any recollection of what a Granada looks like...any identifying features?

2nd: Any special tools I need? How about removing the Tie Rod Ends (the outer which I need)? He's going to give me the spindle, tie rods, rotors/calipers for $50 a side. From what I've seen that is a pretty fair price. Any hints on removing the parts?

3rd: Should I get the back brakes as well? I'll be switching out my rear end for a v-8 rear end with 5 lug pattern, so I'll need to swap brakes anyways.
 
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
A Granada looks like an ugly caboose.

Tie rod ends can be removed by either a “puller” that is designed for it or a “fork” style tool that you drive in with a hammer and it acts as a wedge and spreads the joint apart. The fork works well and is quick but it usually damages the rubber boot around the joint. Only use this if you are going to replace the tie rod end, which is probably a good idea anyway since it is coming off a clunker.

I’m not sure if the front springs have to be removed on the Granada to allow for removal of the spindles, but it wouldn’t surprise me if that is the case. If so, you will need a spring compressor to relieve tension on the spring to safety allow spindle removal. Warning here! Loaded springs are dangerous!

Front-end bolts are tight on any vehicle. A pull handle would be better than a ratchet to break them loose. You might want to consider carrying a cheater bar since the bolts are likely rusty too.

The rear brake setup would probably depend on what rear you are planning to get as a replacement. If you are going to purchase a used rear assembly it will likely have the brake backing plates and possibly other hardware. You might want to wait and go back later if needed.

Have fun and be careful with loaded springs
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Best take an internal spring compressor. Sometimes you can get the spindle off without, but you never know.

Need a pickle fork for the ball joints.

Don't worry about the tie rod ends, they are probably wore out and new ones are cheap.

Side cutters to cut the metal brake lines. Don't bother getting the flare fittings off, they will be stuck. Take it home and work on them there.

I wouldn't worry about the rear brakes. If you get arear end in the future, it will likely come with brakes. Now, you might want to take the rear end if its an 8 inch.
 

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pulled 2 sets couple weeks ago while i was off. springs are not in way and you dont need to touch them. cut the hoses,cut the lines, i took 1/2 large socket set. pliers, for cotter keys and lines, BIG hammer, and a small socket set, may want to get proportining valve also. i didnt get tie rod ends. as stated above they should be replaced and not to high. i tried to find 2 sets that rotors could be turned and i did. that is something to keep in mind also. all other stuff calipers.pads, hoses all cheap at advance etc. i removed my second set in about 1/2 time of first. i got good !!! later
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So the Granada Rear end will work for a 65 mustang? I know I saw a guide around here somewhere but I haven't been able to find it. If I can get it all off the same car...that would be great.

Basically, I want the spindles, rotors (preferably ones that can still be turned, calipers, hoses and lines, and the proportioning valve. Thanks for the info...I think the old tool I really need then will be a BIG hammer. I have a really big torque wrench...though I may just go out and buy a big wrench so I don't mess my good one up. It'll also give me an excuse to get a 1/2 drive set (which I need for my big torque wrench anyways).
 

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Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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You should have no trouble finding the correct car. Nobody buys Granada body parts so the "Granada" script should still be on the fenders and rear of the car. Watch out for the late 70's ,early 80 (or so) Granadas. They use a strut suspension. If you look at the front suspension and it does NOT look like your Mustang suspension, it's one of those. Luckily the older style cars are a lot more common. The design differs slightly but the suspension you want should appear identical to your Mustang.
I addition, I'd take a big Crescent adjustable wrench. IIRC you can't get a socket and ratchet on the lower ball joint nut. If you want the outer tie rod ends, just knock the whole tie rod off from the inner tie rod. The outer ends are usually a bugger to unscrew in the field. Cut the brake lines a ways back so you get the whole flexible hose AND the complete joint. It will make it easier to match up your new lines.
I can't advocate using used brake parts, tie rods, and brake lines. I bought the whole assemblies like you're after. It sure is nice to have an old piece to compare to when buying new parts. I believe I threw away about 1/2 of my Granada purchases AFTER I was absolutely sure the new parts were correct.
 

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Sheesshh. I was just thanking my lucky stars today that the junkyard is pulling my granada brake assy's. I hope they got the message that I didn't want the assy from a fox chassis with the struts. Problem is, I don't get to see the car as it isnt a pick and pull yard. When I go to get the parts tommorrow, I'll quiz them on the year and suspension type so I don't end up with the wrong granada. I'd be a little upset as my temper has been running a bit short lately, (work related, as always) /forums/images/icons/mad.gif
 

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You'll need to get the car up off the ground, so either take a jack or see if they have one you can use.

Don't need to mess with the springs, just unbolt the tierod, upper and lower ball joints and take a pickle fork to them to loosen them up. Then have a long bar to slip in between the lower arm and the frame and force the lower arm/sway bar down slightly so the upper ball joint wil clear the spindle. then just pull it up off the lower spindle and you're good to go.

Pull off the rotor and check the spindle to see that it's not galled by greasless bearings...(ask me how I know this)....
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Galled by greaseless bearings? I'm a little unsure what you are refering to here. Any help would be great.

I'm asking how you know this... /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
 

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once you get the car jacked up just turn the rotor by hand. maybe a little stiff at 1st. needs to turn free and not noisy. as i mentined above you do not need the brake lines and id just unbolt the frame bracket that holds the rubbers hoses. you may need that bracket.prob need new rubber hoses also. MOST of the time the bearings are fine. later
 
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