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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just spent a huge amount of money on driveline parts from Modern Drive Line who now cannot help me actually install the parts! They are for a 70 mach 1 restoration.

The easy is clutch, pressure plate, flyweel, throwout bearing, etc...

The hard part is hooking up the electronic clutch slave cylinder onto the firewall and the other side of it that attaches to trans.

I have a factory 4 speed but the place I believe the rod use to go through will not really allow me to line up a slave cylinder pointed to just one side of the clutch pedal. Not without beating the angle of the firewall into submission and just opening the hole up and then adding two more bolt holes in new places.

I'm afraid it will all look perhaps like chopped liver when I'm done. The questions here are...Do I do that? Or get some help to maybe slow down and think this through?

I don't know how to send a pic but will try to show you the location I need this to go...The firewall has a different angle (Not a flat surface (there and there is a hole that I believe the linkage came through for the 4 speed.

Also, I'm afraid the master cylinder for brakes will be hitting it. What I need would be some accurate measurements from somone one who has already done the trial and error or thing.

Modern driveline was great at helping me spend the money. But not so great at actual help on installing the upgraded parts they sold me.

Thanks and if you know of any solution or feedback already on this please point me in the right direction.

Rick
 

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What was the problem with the factory Z-bar clutch that caused you to ditch it? I have a '65 and I used all of the factory clutch linkage and the 5/8" thick spacer to go from a T10 to a T5 for a whole lot less than $4787.87. About 1/4 of that.
 

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My advice would be to send all that crap back. You're running a 4 spd toploader, why not run factory linkage? I have a T5 in my '69 and I am using all the factory z-bar etc. Works perfect.
 

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Electronic Clutch??

Use the factory Z-Bar and upgrade the joints.
I put in a T5, flywheel, clutch, TO bearing, pressure plate, and used my stock linkage with with all new joints a few months ago. I bought everything (except the linkage) from Modern Driveline and they were great to work with. I had a couple challanges / questions and they were always a phone call away.

They just joined the forum a couple months ago, they will hopefully see this and chime in.
 

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I'm using the Opentracker modified Zbar (rod ends, etc) for my TKO behind the 390 in my '68, and it works great.
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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Modern driveline was great at helping me spend the money. But not so great at actual help on installing the upgraded parts they sold me.
Kind of sounds like every single place I've ever bought car parts from ever. So if Modern Driveline has been any help AT ALL, the way I see it they've already gone above and beyond their call. Custom parts generally require custom installation. And a certain amount of gumption on the part of the installer. Just how it is. Of course if the parts are absolutely incorrect for the intended application then that's a different matter.
 

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Yes, what the heck is an electronic clutch? Is there a APP? LOL!
 
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What’s the advantage to an electric clutch?

Less leg pressure / strength to engage?
 

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I've always had good luck dealing with MDL and have been very pleased with the follow-up service the provide.
Did you order the kit shown in the picture for your '70? According to their site, this is the only "hydraulic" clutch MC they sell for your application. In your initial post, you stated that the actuator rod "will not really allow me to line up a slave cylinder pointed to just one side of the clutch pedal. Not without beating the angle of the firewall into submission". BTW - the slave goes on the other end. It appears that they provide you with a gold clevis end that attaches to a linkage on the passenger side of the firewall and then to the pedal. Everything else seems to be pretty straight forward. If the silver intermediate linkage lines up dead center on the pedal, you may have to mount the adjustable linkage rod from the same side instead of from opposite sides like they show in the second image below.
 

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Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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My advice is to abandon this particular thread and start another one. See if you can get up some pictures of the problem you are having and title the thread accordingly. I'm someone will have some ideas on what to do. Many folks here have installed similar parts or even that exact same stuff.
 

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You do not use the original clutch rod hole for the MDL hydraulic clutch, there are instructions in the MDL kit on how to use masking tape to make a template to drill for the master cylinder mounting. I have their hydraulic setup and I feel its fantastic.
 
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