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Discussion Starter #1
How do you remove spot welds? I have read that you drill then out.
Do you use a drill the size of the spot weld or one a little smaller and pry the remainder off?

I will be removing the old OE shock tower brace and I would like a few pointers.
 

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I center punch the spot weld first. Then I use this,




Spot weld cutter, $5 at Harbor Freight tools. If you take it easy on them, they'll last quite a while.
 
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I used a spot weld cutter for some of mine, and some I just carefully ground down until they let go (or close to it). Just depended on where they were. Regardless of the method you choose though, identifying the center of the weld and punching as close as possible to it is a good idea. That may mean grinding/sanding the surface a little to get a better look. You don't have to use a cutter for speed or good results, I don't think Pete(sponies) bothers with a cutter for instance.
 

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+1 on the cutter. You can also use brad-point drill bits. They're the ones with the smaller pilot at the point of the bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I used a spot weld cutter for some of mine, and some I just carefully ground down until they let go (or close to it). Just depended on where they were. Regardless of the method you choose though, identifying the center of the weld and punching as close as possible to it is a good idea. That may mean grinding/sanding the surface a little to get a better look. You don't have to use a cutter for speed or good results, I don't think Pete(sponies) bothers with a cutter for instance.
When you say punch are you talking about a typical center punch? Make a small dent in the metal to keep a drill from walking?
 

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Yep, the Harbor Freight spot weld cutter is great and if you pair it up with a panel knife, life is so much easier. Once I bought this, I immediately regretted not buying it at the beginning.
Panel Separating Knife
 
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How do you remove spot welds? I have read that you drill then out.
Do you use a drill the size of the spot weld or one a little smaller and pry the remainder off?

I will be removing the old OE shock tower brace and I would like a few pointers.
Use this . . from many , many years of doing so, this is the tool for the job. And, you have a multitude of sizes to choose from, because they all are not the same. When replacing the new metal, it also gives you a small holes for great penetration.



 
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Many, you can see them. But more importantly, they are large ones. That is why the Bullet bits work best.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I got the harbor freight cutter and it was a lot simpler I thought it would be. I was quite surprised.

Thanks everyone.
 

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From my experience, with a few hundred spot welds, the HF style bits work great but easily walk off thweld, and when they walk off they often catch an edge and break a tooth redwing them useless. I found I had the best results using the Bullet Bit like Pete, to start with. Once the point was through, I switched to the spot weld bit. The hole created by the bullet bit works perfectly to keep the spot weld bit centered. The combined use makes fast work of most welds.
 

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I'm to the point I don't hardly drill spot welds anymore. Most of the time I trim away the excess metal (plasma, cutoff wheel, aviation shears). Then once all that's left is the flange with the spot welds on it, I break out the 4.5" grinder and start grinding the metal. The metal will get thinner and thinner until it's blue hot and paper thin. You can then take a screwdriver or pliers and rip/pull the metal off once you've ground the metal thin enough.

If I do find myself drilling spot welds I use an automatic spring loaded center punch to mark all the welds, then get a freshly sharpened 1/8" drill bit and start the drilling process with it before switching bits to drill the welds.

The grinding process is faster for me as long as I'm committed to it and get after it with the grinder.
 
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