Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts
G

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, one last time I'm gonna question you guys who know...what springs do I need for my car and where is the best place to buy them. I've heard that what we've been calling 620 springs (I always thought 620 meant 620lb's) are actually .062 of an inch thick. Is this why they are called 620's? Also, if this is the case...do some 620's have a higher rating than others? I need a very stiff spring to make sure my 225-50-16's don't rub. Where is the best place to buy springs and what rating of spring would you guys suggest. See pics of my car at: http://www.home.earthlink.net/~barryblakely/Mustang%20Pics/ and take note of the current spacing I have on the front tires-to-fender. Thanks guys!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,131 Posts
On my 66, I'm keeping the stock rate springs for the street. I don't feel that stiff springs are exclusive to good handling or tire rub. Too stiff of a spring and the tire won't keep in contact with the road.

I'd rather use a little more finesse, I'm re-locating my uppers 1 3/4" with a wedge kit. This'll help the camber situation and helping with tire rub. Along with this, I'll lower my roll angle and improve handling while still having a good ride for the street.

Yup, I've been talking with the opentrack guys!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,376 Posts
I'm not an expert but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night.

On the Cal Special I have NPD's 550 springs with the Shelby drop. It sits pretty low but it handles good and rides great. On the 65 GT 350 clone I have the shelby drop and 620 springs. It has a much harsher ride. The tire clearance hasn't been an issue for either car. The Cal Special has 235/60-14s. The 65 has 205/50-15s.

The best way to acheive a good handling suspension while remaining compliant is with a softer spring and stiffer shocks. Maybe The new edelbrock shocks and a set of GT coils.
Cut the GT coils to taste.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,376 Posts
P.S. I like your trunk set up! I think I'll do that in the Clone Vert. Smaller version though. A pair of 8" sealed units and 250 Watts. Just enough to feel some bottom without taking up a lot of room.
 

·
Gone but never forgetten
Joined
·
25,239 Posts
620's DOES mean 620 lbs. It refers to the spring rate, and how many ft. lbs. of pressure are required to compress it. Never hear of springs being referred to in the diameter of the coil before.

That being said, usually, it's not a matter of stiffer springs to keep from tires from rubbing in the front. There's a TON of room in the front wheel wells of a '65/'66. Where you'll usually run into rubbing problems is that while there's plenty of room, the height of the tire interferes with the front valance and/or the front of the wheel well opening. Your rubbing will occur making turns, not on bumps. Stiffer and/or higher springs will not help that.

I have th 620# 1" lowered springs in both my '66 and '69 with KYB GasAjust shocks. That along with manual steering, a 1" swaybar, monte carlo bar, and export brace makes for a very nice handling car and a smooth ride.

I used to feel the ride was a little harsh in my '66 until I replaced the crappy Monroe GasMatics with the KYB's. The KYB's made all the difference in the world, and made it ride like a totally different car.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,415 Posts
I've got to agree with John. I have the 620 lbs specific rate 1" drop coils in front with KYB shocks and mid-eye springs and KYB's out back. Along with a 1.25 inch anti sway bar up front and a 3/4 bar out back.

The car rides a little rough on our lovely Michigan roads :p, but the handling is superb.

The monty-carlo bar and export brace make a huge difference as well.

I guess some sub frame connectors are next. ::
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top