Vintage Mustang Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I’ve had a 64 & 1/2 mustang in my possession for quite some time and decided to start work on it. I ran into problems trying to start it and am wondering what the issue could be. An obvious one could be the 9 year old battery but is there anything else I should check for if the battery wasn’t the solution
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,105 Posts
Welcome to VMF!
Loose or corroded cables, ground connections, bad solenoid, stuck starter...
Does it have clean oil and filter, coolant, good belts and hoses, trans fluid, and most importantly good brakes? Good luck !
Send pictures !
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Welcome to VMF!
Loose or corroded cables, ground connections, bad solenoid, stuck starter...
Does it have clean oil and filter, coolant, good belts and hoses, trans fluid, and most importantly good brakes? Good luck !
Send pictures !
Just did the oil change today and emptied the gas tank/ put new gas in. Belts look fine, may need trans fluid tho. I’m hoping it’s not the cables because I know little to nothing about fixing those. I’ll post pictures tomorrow to help you guys better help me however.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,967 Posts
If fuel Stabilizer was never run in car before it was put away, the carb may need to be rebuilt.
Before starting I'd pull coil wire & crank it over 15-20 seconds to get new oil threw engine.
But guessing if carb bad you'll be cranking a bit.
New plugs might be nice to do.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
13,229 Posts
Since the engine hasn't been started in 12 years it is very likely that the engine is "locked up". Remove all of the spark plugs and see if you can use a ratchet and socket on the big bolt in the center of the crankshaft pulley to turn the crankshaft. Don't force it. If it won't turn with moderate pressure on the ratchet, stop. Get a hand pump oil squirt can and fill it with ATF. Pump ATF into each cylinder until it runs out of the spark plug hole. Let it sit for a week and then try again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,901 Posts
12 years is a long time my friend especially if its been outside. Temperature changes cause condensation in the gas tank, water sits below fuel and rusts the bottom of the tank. If it has old gas in it, smell it, if it smells like varnish, DO NOT let it get into the carb or fuel pump. Stop worrying about getting it running unless you are running it from a gas can with fresh gas. Start by opening the fuel tank and seeing what is in there, there are replacement tanks available affordably. IF you get it to turn over and IF it has compression you will be a very lucky man. If its been garaged, you might have a shot, temps don't swing as wildly or quickly. If your just goofing around to see what happens, have fun, if you are serious about having a running car, I would clean out the fuel lines with fresh fuel, make sure the tank is clean, rebuild the carb (its gonna need it, likely has varnish in it). Then replace distributor cap, rotor, points (if required) plug wires and plugs, assuming it has compression.

Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
If fuel Stabilizer was never run in car before it was put away, the carb may need to be rebuilt.
Before starting I'd pull coil wire & crank it over 15-20 seconds to get new oil threw engine.
But guessing if carb bad you'll be cranking a bit.
New plugs might be nice to do.
So we got it to turn when the spark plugs were off but we only took off 8. How would you take off the spark plug that’s farthest back on the left
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
12 years is a long time my friend especially if its been outside. Temperature changes cause condensation in the gas tank, water sits below fuel and rusts the bottom of the tank. If it has old gas in it, smell it, if it smells like varnish, DO NOT let it get into the carb or fuel pump. Stop worrying about getting it running unless you are running it from a gas can with fresh gas. Start by opening the fuel tank and seeing what is in there, there are replacement tanks available affordably. IF you get it to turn over and IF it has compression you will be a very lucky man. If its been garaged, you might have a shot, temps don't swing as wildly or quickly. If your just goofing around to see what happens, have fun, if you are serious about having a running car, I would clean out the fuel lines with fresh fuel, make sure the tank is clean, rebuild the carb (its gonna need it, likely has varnish in it). Then replace distributor cap, rotor, points (if required) plug wires and plugs, assuming it has compression.

Good Luck
I emptied the fuel tank yesterday and put new gas but a new fuel line is definitely on the list
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,967 Posts
So we got it to turn when the spark plugs were off but we only took off 8. How would you take off the spark plug that’s farthest back on the left
The harder plugs to reach, I'd use a long socket extension & a swivel on plug socket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
981 Posts
I recently cranked 2 Fords that had been sitting over 20 years. One is a 302 and mine is a 351w . Ran a rubber hose into a gas can on both ,the 302 we put points in,the carb was junk but it cranked and ran, sounded great. The second was mine basically did'nt do anything other than put trans fluid in the cylinders then fired it up the next day. The idle circuits were gummed up but I added a can of sea foam into 5 gallons of gas and left it idleing and could hear it running better the whole time. I was skeptical as how it would run after sitting all that time but it seems to run as well as it did when I parked it.

If I were you no way would I try to run any gas thru that tank into my carb which probably needs rebuilt ( or replaced once you get it cranked) as others have said. Maybe it goes maybe not ,you won't know until you try . Get it turning over,get fire to the plugs , get gas coming thru the accelerator pump in the carb ( or dump a little in the carb and move the gas container away from the car) and it should crank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
688 Posts
Even if you run the car and improves with or without cleaners, you might possibly have varnish that will slough off walls inside carburetor and plug up ports internally.

Happened to me after running it for several days in driveway. It was at full operating temp and had been timed and running well.
Bright side is it happened at home.

I had a new gas tank and sending unit.

I even had gunk in steel lines from sitting as well. I isolated steel line and capped and filled with degreaser and let it sit overnight, after draining then with low pressure air with rags at opposite ends to catch stuff, and finally with carb cleaner.

When I opened carb, I was pleasantly surprised to see the “mud” in the carb.
It sat for about 7 years in unheated Michigan winter garage.

Hope this helps out.
BTW, I would pull distributor and prime the oil system before starting,
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top