Joined
·
8,389 Posts
Those settings are completely wrong. As others have said they were for a 60s Falcon driving on 60‘s roads on bias ply tires. A lot has changed in 50 years.
Do the Shelby/Arning Drop on the car then have the alignment set to the specs per Open Tracker.
Find an old school mechanic will to work with you to get it right. Most modern mechanics don’t know anything more than what the computer says. They blindly do what it says.
STREET SPECS *
Caster:
+2° to +3.5° Manual Steer
+2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer
Camber:
0 to -.5°
Toe:
1/8″ in
Also check your shock towers to make sure there are no crack and the they haven’t separated. I found out my car had been hit on the drivers wheel and cracked the tower And bent the rail. Could never get the alignment right. Had to replace the whole apron.
If you really want it to drive well I recommend you consider adding the following:
Export Brace & Monte Carlo bar and optionally a ZRay bottom brace will really help too.
These all ensure your geometry is correct So the alignment works as intended. If the body flexes it’s impossible for the alignment to keep the tires placed properly on the ground.
Then add Open Trackers Bilstein street shocks, roller perches and roller idler arm. These really improve the feel and response of the car.
The final improvements are GT springs front and back and a 1” or 1 1/8” sway bar.
You won’t believe how much better it drives with these changes. You don’t have to do it all at once, but you have to check the alignment after each change, so it’s cheaper in the long run to do it all together.
Do the Shelby/Arning Drop on the car then have the alignment set to the specs per Open Tracker.
Find an old school mechanic will to work with you to get it right. Most modern mechanics don’t know anything more than what the computer says. They blindly do what it says.
STREET SPECS *
Caster:
+2° to +3.5° Manual Steer
+2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer
Camber:
0 to -.5°
Toe:
1/8″ in
Also check your shock towers to make sure there are no crack and the they haven’t separated. I found out my car had been hit on the drivers wheel and cracked the tower And bent the rail. Could never get the alignment right. Had to replace the whole apron.
If you really want it to drive well I recommend you consider adding the following:
Export Brace & Monte Carlo bar and optionally a ZRay bottom brace will really help too.
These all ensure your geometry is correct So the alignment works as intended. If the body flexes it’s impossible for the alignment to keep the tires placed properly on the ground.
Then add Open Trackers Bilstein street shocks, roller perches and roller idler arm. These really improve the feel and response of the car.
The final improvements are GT springs front and back and a 1” or 1 1/8” sway bar.
You won’t believe how much better it drives with these changes. You don’t have to do it all at once, but you have to check the alignment after each change, so it’s cheaper in the long run to do it all together.
