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You both have an immediate fan base!
We will need picts of the two of you with your cars!
I am sure there will be car shows with the Mom and Son - Triumph and Mustang shown together.

Mom, it sounds like you know more about cars than a lot of people who start here. I have been doing this kind of stuff for 40 years and just now learned about the GP performance stuff.
Parker, Wow dude, you are smart enough to ask questions and your Mom is supporting... Way more than most of us had!

For inspiration look up Kelly_H.

Are we volunteering? Yes, I think we all are, and presume someone will chime in that is close enough to have a look see if needed.
Most of us, (me at least) get a TON of help from this forum, and try to give back when we can. Likely I would not even try to have a 50 yr old car without the help here.
My experience with the forum tells me that 99.9% of anything can be diagnosed with the picts like the ones you provided, and if not, someone is usually willing to drive by and have a look.

Tech yackage..

Looks like the consensus is the original parts and the after market parts are worn out, so replacing both the contacts, turn switch, and the mount with the GP Performance stuff.
A couple of people confirmed the grease, but here is mine. The Grease is Dielectric grease intended to lubricate electronic parts, so is totally normal to use, but it is NOT normal grease. Advisable on anything that will move like these contacts or anything you might want to get back apart later, like bulbs/plug wires, etc... If you go to the parts store you will often see it marketed as "bulb grease".
You do have too much there, but, whomever put it in was correct to use it.

While I never personally worked on Triumph's, I understand that the electrical manufacture = Lucas was known as the "King of Darkness".
You will need some electrical knowledge for both cars.
My advice (I have an electronics degree from way back.) is to go to Hobby Lobby and pick up some of the electronics lab kits and get a volt meter.
All volt meters seem to work, so cheap from ebay = fine. Some tend to prefer a "test light" which is a writing pin shaped thing with a wire out the end that lights up when you have voltage.
Some times much easier than a volt meter.

Hydraulics = relates to how the brakes work, usually if they are good and stopping you, then that can wait. If you sever see dripping from a wheel, do not ignore it.

If you guys get an alignment (you mentioned the PO tried) have someone from the group that is local advise you where, or help.
You do not want factory alignment settings for this car... The tires are not constructed the same so the original settings are wrong for modern tires.

Good luck and what ever general questions you have, start a new post (so the title matches) and toss em out there.
 

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1966 Mustang Coupe
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Discussion Starter #23
I've been to the City Cafe Diner downtown several times. 馃憤 馃憤 馃憤
My friends and I go there to eat a lot after work. Mmmmm pancakes! My mom works very close to there also.
 

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My friends and I go there to eat a lot after work. Mmmmm pancakes! My mom works very close to there also.
Hopefully someone close by will be able to meet up and help you out, I`m just a little bit out of town so can only help here.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
You both have an immediate fan base!
We will need picts of the two of you with your cars!
I am sure there will be car shows with the Mom and Son - Triumph and Mustang shown together.

Mom, it sounds like you know more about cars than a lot of people who start here. I have been doing this kind of stuff for 40 years and just now learned about the GP performance stuff.
Parker, Wow dude, you are smart enough to ask questions and your Mom is supporting... Way more than most of us had!

For inspiration look up Kelly_H.

Are we volunteering? Yes, I think we all are, and presume someone will chime in that is close enough to have a look see if needed.
Most of us, (me at least) get a TON of help from this forum, and try to give back when we can. Likely I would not even try to have a 50 yr old car without the help here.
My experience with the forum tells me that 99.9% of anything can be diagnosed with the picts like the ones you provided, and if not, someone is usually willing to drive by and have a look.

Tech yackage..

Looks like the consensus is the original parts and the after market parts are worn out, so replacing both the contacts, turn switch, and the mount with the GP Performance stuff.
A couple of people confirmed the grease, but here is mine. The Grease is Dielectric grease intended to lubricate electronic parts, so is totally normal to use, but it is NOT normal grease. Advisable on anything that will move like these contacts or anything you might want to get back apart later, like bulbs/plug wires, etc... If you go to the parts store you will often see it marketed as "bulb grease".
You do have too much there, but, whomever put it in was correct to use it.

While I never personally worked on Triumph's, I understand that the electrical manufacture = Lucas was known as the "King of Darkness".
You will need some electrical knowledge for both cars.
My advice (I have an electronics degree from way back.) is to go to Hobby Lobby and pick up some of the electronics lab kits and get a volt meter.
All volt meters seem to work, so cheap from ebay = fine. Some tend to prefer a "test light" which is a writing pin shaped thing with a wire out the end that lights up when you have voltage.
Some times much easier than a volt meter.

Hydraulics = relates to how the brakes work, usually if they are good and stopping you, then that can wait. If you sever see dripping from a wheel, do not ignore it.

If you guys get an alignment (you mentioned the PO tried) have someone from the group that is local advise you where, or help.
You do not want factory alignment settings for this car... The tires are not constructed the same so the original settings are wrong for modern tires.

Good luck and what ever general questions you have, start a new post (so the title matches) and toss em out there.
Mom here, (he is at work again). Thanks so much for the warm reception! He got the turn signal wired up, and the steering wheel put back on this afternoon while I was at work. Drove the car to work and said the first time he turned the wheel, the 2 horn wires tore loose - so I guess we will be taking it back apart tomorrow to see what he did wrong. Total BUMMER, but I'm proud of him for making progress! That little move might force him to get the upgraded GT mount sooner than expected. I'll have him post tomorrow with pics in case we might need help as to what went wrong with his install. (I believe he fished the new wires down through the top of the steering column.)

Good point about the alignment settings! I wondered about that just the other day, as I have learned from having a local brake shop botch my pads and E brake. Is there some way we can check the settings or is that something the shop needs to do? What settings are appropriate?

We've got a volt meter. We'll get bulb grease for the turn signal cam (assuming the horn wiring mishap didn't destroy that part too.)

As for my car, If you don't count the flat part on the magnet inside my distributor which was causing the timing to fluctuate wildly, I haven't had any real issues with Lucas parts, YET. :rolleyes: But I do have electrical gremlins in the form of non-functional turn signals and intermittent brake lights. I'll make an attempt to track those down eventually. You know how it is, JUST when you get it running really well, (I upgraded to a dual carb setup during quarantine), you start to notice little things that you decide need to be repaired. Or is that just me?? As such, mine is slightly dismantled at the moment as I'm halfway through replacing my seat cushions and upholstery. (I have essentially been sitting on torn vinyl covers over the wire frames with a little dust that used to be cushions.) I have the transmission tunnel pulled out, because I am about to put a center console in, and the guy who put in the new wheel bearings, hub, and half axle last month wants to take a peek at the forks because my transmission is quirky, and leaking fluid. Anyway, here is a shot from the day I got my little mid-life crisis the wearing her original paint color. (Yes, really #92 Magenta)
769926
 

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Am I the only one that think the top bearing in the steering column looks very suspicious on the pic? What about the big spring for that bearing, it's not shown in the pics. It seems sometimes to have been thrown away, by someone who dosen't understand it's purpose.
 

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Welcome to the Forum. Love Mustangs and Spitfires. More photos! Learned to set up dual SU carbs when I was a teenager. My neighbor had a first year Spitfire and Volvo鈥檚. He had great patience.
 

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First off to MOM: Ok lets get something cleared up right from the start! As someone who has owned a Triumph (57 TR3) for over 50 years, ANYONE that can keep a SPitfire running better than 50% of the time is a master mechanic! My hat is off to you, and as for working on one, there are few cars that are easier to work on and simpler to understand than a Spitfire. As long as they are driven regularly, they are great cars but once they sit, the smoke inside the wires leaks out slowly and you get prince of darkness issues. Triumphs love to be driven. Triumph secret: a wash and wax can fix everything from a smoking engine to horns that don't work - the English have some strange Pagen JuJu they put in their older cars! My dad was a foreign car mechanic, passed his secrets to the next generation...

Now Parker; your Mom means well and we all had moms (most of us anyway) so we understand, don't be embarrassed but you might want to change your Instagram password though. ;o)

First advice, ALWAYS disconnect the battery when you work on the horn, it has a live wire that will take out a fuse and the fuse box is in a sucky place behind the emergency brake on the side wall. I would check them to insure that none are wrapped in tin foil as many people do when a fuse blows and your are stuck somewhere. As has been said, Grant steering wheels are low budget and the horn buttons are notoriously bad. The scoop on Mustang horns is, they almost never work and especially through a cheap horn button without a common upgrade. I do not agree that a remote horn button is the right answer for a new driver, its too far away in an emergency and not an intuitive reach for an inexperienced driver e.g. less than 25000 miles. I do have a Grant and my horn is anemic as hell. Eventually I will put a relay on it. You will likely find that if you put a full 12 volts to it from the battery it will blast. Search this site for Horn Relays to understand the fix I am talking about. If you add WOodchuck to the search, he has a way to wire them so the button is ground instead of power which is much better way to go.

Get an original FORD manual for these cars and spend your evenings reading about what you plan on working on the next day. This is how I learned how to work on cars, it works, if you don't understand, ask us, we all remember being 17 puts a smile on our faces to help. Then go to youtube and google Grant Horn button kinds of things to learn what is up. This is a non trivial job that you are attempting. Wiring diagrams are intimidating, but if you take your time and study them, the answers are there. Learn to read the color codes for the lines e.g. wires.

Finally, be careful putting the wheel together, the Grant aluminum part that goes on the center spindle and takes the three screws that tightens everything together is very cheap and easy to cross thread and strip. Most of them by now have already been stripped which is one of the reasons Grants have a bad name, they get loose if they have been damaged. Go slow and if it doesn't seem to turn easy, back up and reposition.

Post finally, if you go to pull the center section, NEVER yank on the wheel to get it off e.g. with the three bolts installed, if it breaks loose, one guy blackened both eyes when it let loose. It takes a puller or you can leave the center nut on to yank it so it can only move a 1/4 inch before it stops. Best to use the correct puller...
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Am I the only one that think the top bearing in the steering column looks very suspicious on the pic? What about the big spring for that bearing, it's not shown in the pics. It seems sometimes to have been thrown away, by someone who dosen't understand it's purpose.
There's a large spring inside the steering wheel cap, could that be what you mean? It's in one of the pics. Something is very wrong, because the new turn signal return cam snapped off the first time he turned the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
First off to MOM: Ok lets get something cleared up right from the start! As someone who has owned a Triumph (57 TR3) for over 50 years, ANYONE that can keep a SPitfire running better than 50% of the time is a master mechanic! My hat is off to you, and as for working on one, there are few cars that are easier to work on and simpler to understand than a Spitfire. As long as they are driven regularly, they are great cars but once they sit, the smoke inside the wires leaks out slowly and you get prince of darkness issues. Triumphs love to be driven. Triumph secret: a wash and wax can fix everything from a smoking engine to horns that don't work - the English have some strange Pagen JuJu they put in their older cars! My dad was a foreign car mechanic, passed his secrets to the next generation...

Now Parker; your Mom means well and we all had moms (most of us anyway) so we understand, don't be embarrassed but you might want to change your Instagram password though. ;o)

Post finally, if you go to pull the center section, NEVER yank on the wheel to get it off e.g. with the three bolts installed, if it breaks loose, one guy blackened both eyes when it let loose. It takes a puller or you can leave the center nut on to yank it so it can only move a 1/4 inch before it stops. Best to use the correct puller...
IT's MOM (again)
I have experienced the British Pagan Juju--my tiny baby horn worked, then didn't and now mysteriously works again. In a conversation with my Dad (retired aircraft mechanic), he blames corrosion on the horn contacts, but I haven't been motivated to delve into the mystery yet- too many more pressing matters, and if it ain't broke... The fact that my little car runs, (and runs well) can definitely be attributed to help I've received on the forums, debugging assistance from my partner, and my ability to Google tenaciously, lol. I also like to think that the cheeky British swears I concoct while working on her helps, but I think honestly it's more amusing to the neighbors.

No need for him to change his Insta pw. I set up his account on here with him, and did the first post, because after 2 weeks of telling him to get acquainted with some forums and look for help, this was the equivalent of my foot up his butt. He's a good kid, but like his mother, can get overwhelmed in an area he isn't familiar with and procrastinate.

Disconnecting the battery was one of the first lessons I taught him. AIn't nobody want to deal with a dropped wrench mistakenly arc-welded to the battery terminals, much less, a nice jolt when you grab a bare wire.

We bought a Haynes manual- will put the original Ford manual on the list to buy,

We bought a puller, but he didn't need to use it. Parker has 2 metal rods inside his chest wall (major surgery last year), and a blackened eye was the least of my concerns. Shockingly, he said the bolt was only HAND TIGHT :oops:, and the wheel came right off! Needless to say, I am REAL UNCOMFORTABLE about the steering wheel only being hand tightened, so it looks like maybe time to upgrade the whole steering setup instead of just trying to patch the Grant wheel or figure out what parts might be missing.

He said the turn signal cam broke last night the first time he turned the wheel, so I am about to drag him out of bed and take a look at what's going on.

Pics to follow.
 

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Most of the aftermarket horn kits have 2 pins that are supposed to contact the turn signal cancellation cam when you turn the wheel. If they aren鈥檛 set correctly they can either snap the plastic came or just not work at all. Finding the sweet spot can be maddening. As a former grant wheel owner I second the suggestion to get the upgraded horn kit. I鈥檓 running a lecarra wheel now, it鈥檚 miles better than a grant but it鈥檚 still a little finicky with the turn cancellation. It鈥檚 a stupid simple system but getting it to work correctly can take some patience.
 

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We bought a puller, but he didn't need to use it. Parker has 2 metal rods inside his chest wall (major surgery last year), and a blackened eye was the least of my concerns. Shockingly, he said the bolt was only HAND TIGHT :oops:, and the wheel came right off! Needless to say, I am REAL UNCOMFORTABLE about the steering wheel only being hand tightened, so it looks like maybe time to upgrade the whole steering setup instead of just trying to patch the Grant wheel or figure out what parts might be missing.
In the photos Parker posted in Post #11 of this thread there are some parts missing. Maybe he has them and they just weren't in the photo.
There is a bearing at the top of the steering column tube that keeps the steering shaft centered inside the tube. I can see it in the photo but I don't see the metal plate with 3 screws that retain the bearing in the tube. There is a stout coil spring that goes between the steering wheel and the bearing that puts downward pressure on the bearing and it's not in the photo.
The 2 spring loaded contacts in the turn signal switch are power from the battery and power to the horns. Pressing the horn button switch connects these contacts and sends power to the horns.
The factory steering wheel was one piece. Aftermarket steering wheels are two piece- a universal steering wheel and a hub that is specific to the car. The hub has splines that mate to the splines on the steering shaft and there is a nut that requires a 15/16" socket that secures the hub to the shaft. There is a chisel mark in the end of the steering shaft that should be at 12:00 when the front wheels are straight ahead. The steering wheel wheel indexes to this mark.
If I were closer than 1000 miles away I would be happy to come show Parker how it all goes together.
 

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First off to MOM: Ok lets get something cleared up right from the start! As someone who has owned a Triumph (57 TR3) for over 50 years, ANYONE that can keep a Spitfire running better than 50% of the time is a master mechanic! My hat is off to you, and as for working on one, there are few cars that are easier to work on and simpler to understand than a Spitfire.
^^^+++ That!
My college roomie raced a GP Spitfire and I had Volvos and Lotus. Nothing like opening the hood (bonnet) of a Spitfire and using the tire as a stool. Yes, Lucas was the Prince of Darkness.
Welcome to the forum MOM.
 
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Discussion Starter #35
^^^+++ That!
My college roomie raced a GP Spitfire and I had Volvos and Lotus. Nothing like opening the hood (bonnet) of a Spitfire and using the tire as a stool. Yes, Lucas was the Prince of Darkness.
Welcome to the forum MOM.
YES! I sit on the tires EVERY TIME I work on her. My neighbor passed by during one of the times I was working on changing out to dual carbs and she said "Tracy, you work on that car more than you drive it!" To which I replied: "That's what these cars are famous for, Jen!", while giving her the one finger salute. (We have a good relationship, so she laughed at that.)
 

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Discussion Starter #36
In the photos Parker posted in Post #11 of this thread there are some parts missing. Maybe he has them and they just weren't in the photo.
There is a bearing at the top of the steering column tube that keeps the steering shaft centered inside the tube. I can see it in the photo but I don't see the metal plate with 3 screws that retain the bearing in the tube. There is a stout coil spring that goes between the steering wheel and the bearing that puts downward pressure on the bearing and it's not in the photo.
The 2 spring loaded contacts in the turn signal switch are power from the battery and power to the horns. Pressing the horn button switch connects these contacts and sends power to the horns.
The factory steering wheel was one piece. Aftermarket steering wheels are two piece- a universal steering wheel and a hub that is specific to the car. The hub has splines that mate to the splines on the steering shaft and there is a nut that requires a 15/16" socket that secures the hub to the shaft. There is a chisel mark in the end of the steering shaft that should be at 12:00 when the front wheels are straight ahead. The steering wheel wheel indexes to this mark.
If I were closer than 1000 miles away I would be happy to come show Parker how it all goes together.

Parker is out putting things back together. I think yesterday he put the hub on incorrectly, and when he turned the wheel, one of the two posts on contacted the cam and snapped it off. (He's REALLY frustrated that he broke a new $30 part, so I welcomed him to the joys of classic automobile maintenance.) I notice today that the hub is marked with an arrow where the top should be, and that would position the 2 posts on the left side in between the turn signal cancelling cam, not to the bottom right or top of it. So, we'll order another one, and try again.

Here are pics of all the parts we have. We are going to take the advice of some of you and order the GT upgraded mount and horn button kits.
769976
769977
 

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The parts in the first photo are the Grant steering wheel installation kit.
The second photo appears to show all of the steering column parts in place.
On the original Ford turn signal switch the cancelling cam was held in place with a screw and was easily replaceable. Yours has a rivet and I don't know if it can be replaced separately.
 

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Parker is out putting things back together. I think yesterday he put the hub on incorrectly, and when he turned the wheel, one of the two posts on contacted the cam and snapped it off. (He's REALLY frustrated that he broke a new $30 part, so I welcomed him to the joys of classic automobile maintenance.) I notice today that the hub is marked with an arrow where the top should be, and that would position the 2 posts on the left side in between the turn signal cancelling cam, not to the bottom right or top of it. So, we'll order another one, and try again.

Here are pics of all the parts we have. We are going to take the advice of some of you and order the GT upgraded mount and horn button kits. View attachment 769976 View attachment 769977
That contact ring is trashed and could be the cause of the snapped post on the horn contacts.
 

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There's a large spring inside the steering wheel cap, could that be what you mean?
The new pic with the new broken cancelling cam, also show the spring on the sharft I asked for. The steering shaft will move around inside the column if it's not there to put pressure on the top bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
The new pic with the new broken cancelling cam, also show the spring on the sharft I asked for. The steering shaft will move around inside the column if it's not there to put pressure on the top bearing.
Yup, saw that when I went out to take new pics.
 
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