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1966 GT Fastback, 289 / 315 HP, Tremec 5-sd, Comp cam, Edelbrock EFI, FPA headers, TCP coilovers
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Mostly "stock-looking" outside, fairly resto underneath - original 289 block, Edelbrock heads, Edelbrock Pro-Flo 4 EFI, Comp cam, Crane rockers, FPA headers, Tremec 5-speed, MDL hydraulic clutch, TCP front coilovers, VariShocks front and rear, TCP power steering, SSBC four-wheel power disc brakes, Foose 17' wheels, Vintage Air, AutoMeter gauge pack, complete new wiring harness and full interior. Just out of the garage after 10 months of work - every night and all weekend.

Update - added some better pictures:

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20200223_150746.jpg Engine Bay Adj.jpg EFI Left 1.JPG
 

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@drsbmiller Beautiful car!!! How do you like the Pro-Flo 4? Did you use the sump system they offer or plumb directly to the thank? Which tank did you use? Thanks!
 

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1966 GT Fastback, 289 / 315 HP, Tremec 5-sd, Comp cam, Edelbrock EFI, FPA headers, TCP coilovers
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
@drsbmiller Beautiful car!!! How do you like the Pro-Flo 4? Did you use the sump system they offer or plumb directly to the thank? Which tank did you use? Thanks!
Sorry about the slow response - I haven't been on VMF in a few days.

I LOVE the Pro-Flo 4 system, and highly recommend it if you are looking for general driving / street use. It is a fully self-learning system, and although it does have some advanced tuning features, it does not interface with a laptop nor does it give you access to the full map if you want to do serious HP / torque curve optimization on a dyno - but I don't need that. I did have the car dyno tuned (made about 315 HP at 6000 rpm), and with a few tweaks of the available variables, we did squeeze ~10 more HP out of it, but that's it. What is great about the system is that a) the car starts instantly and idles from dead cold (and hot), b) excellent power - pulls hard from 1500 all the way to 6500 rpm, c) it runs smoothly at all cruise rpm's, and d) it is reliable (so far). Way, way better than the old 650 Holley carb that was on there before.

Fuel system wise, I did not want a fuel sump inside the engine bay, even though that simplifies the plumbing. I bought a complete new Tanks Inc system from Summit Racing, which included the stock Mustang 16 gal tank, in-tank Walbro 255 gal / hr pump and fuel gauge sending unit. I also ran all new 3/8" aluminum supply and return fuel lines from front to back in one piece, with very few connections (AN fittings for the Russell fuel filter and for the flex lines from the fuel rails to the ends of the aluminum fuel lines). No leaks and no worries! You will also need to purchase a separate fuel pressure regulator that attaches to the fuel rail; mine is 43 psi, which is plenty for my mild engine. Two things to watch out for - 1) be sure to leave the nylon sleeve on the Walbro fuel pump inlet when assembling the in-tank system; otherwise, you will create a pressure leak inside the tank, and 2) be sure to match the fuel sending unit specs with your fuel gauge. The fuel sending unit in the Tanks Inc package is 10-73 ohms, and is calibrated "linear". The proper Autometer fuel gauge for this setup is the model 8319 (not the 8315 that I bought by mistake).

As you can tell, I love to talk about my build, and thank you for your interest.

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@drsbmiller Wow, that’s a lot of great info, thank you very much. I’m really looking for reliability more than max HP. Admittedly my Edelbrock carb has been very good, but I think I can do better. I’m thinking of using this Holley fuel pump


Although I may just replace the tank with one with baffling. Thanks again and I’m glad you’re enjoying your beautiful car.
 

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1966 GT Fastback, 289 / 315 HP, Tremec 5-sd, Comp cam, Edelbrock EFI, FPA headers, TCP coilovers
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The nice thing about EFI is that the air / fuel ratio is always set right regardless of RPM, whereas with a carburetor the AFR is only optimum at one particular RPM.
The Holley pump should be fine. The Tanks Inc tank is baffled and has the little shroud around the foot of the pump.
 

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The Tanks Inc has the supply and return lines on the top of the tank, in the trunk, correct? I don’t know how I feel about that.
 

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1966 GT Fastback, 289 / 315 HP, Tremec 5-sd, Comp cam, Edelbrock EFI, FPA headers, TCP coilovers
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41 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
The supply and return line connection fittings are built into the flange that supports the pump / filter, and that flange screws to the top of the tank. So you are right, the supply and return lines do run across the top of the tank. This is kind of a good news / bad news thing - it's true that these items are sitting in valuable trunk real estate and are potentially exposed to things falling on them, but it does make it easy to access them for maintenance (which I have had to do a few times already).

I could have done it differently, but I chose to drill two 3/8" access holes through the trunk wall to run the lines through. This allowed me to keep my lines one continuous piece all the way from the tank flange to fuel rail flex hoses. At some point, I may change these out and install bulkhead fittings at my trunk penetrations, but this setup has been OK so far.

To protect the fuel pump flange, fuel gauge sender flange and the fuel lines on the top of the tank, I also designed and built my own carpeted trunk liner. This actually worked out really well; I will take some pictures (once I take some) and post.
 

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