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Discussion Starter #1
I've just about got my mustang all back together again. I can max the sytem out at 75 watts of beautiful clean music per channel and another 180 on the SUB. I can see the beat of the music through the amp meter so i better be adding a large capacitor to the AMP.

The head unit is a custom autosound with CD changer control. This is the weakest part of the sytem.
http://www.alltel.net/~motorhead/IMG_1091.JPG

The CD changer is a kenwood and is mounted on a reinforced divider along with the AMP and the crossovers for the kick panel speakers. I'm thinking of changing over so aluminum skin both for looks and to help cool the AMP.
http://www.alltel.net/~motorhead/IMG_1090.JPG

In the foreground you see my version 0.2 subwoofer in a spare. They are two steel pans welded together. The welding was a real bad ideal, version 0.3 will have them sealed with goop and screws to form a better seal. The unit is .93 cubic feet but it is filled with pollyfill which makes it effectivly 30% larger @1.21 cubic feet. which is within the ideal size of a 12".
http://www.alltel.net/~motorhead/IMG_1089.JPG

I will have to narrow the back seat a bit to fit the rear speakers.
http://www.alltel.net/~motorhead/IMG_1087.JPG

the front separates came out looking real good but i'm still thinking of adding a 4" round to the doors to get more of the sound comming from the front.
http://www.alltel.net/~motorhead/IMG_1088.JPG

The AMP and the new fuse block are driven direct from the battery. There is a relay on the addional fuse block comes from the hot wire on the solenoid. I need to add a fuse to the relay switch line to be safe.
http://www.alltel.net/~motorhead/IMG_1093.JPG
http://www.alltel.net/~motorhead/IMG_1092.JPG
 

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You had better invest in a very high quality paging alarm system bro... Classic Mustangs are easy to break into - Too easy.

Beautiful setup, I'm envious! My spartan 10" subs and amp not even bolted down looks crummy compared to that!
 

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How does that sub sound in the welded drain pans? Does it sorta ping when it hits hard?

I would reccomend using thick particle board or MDF for sub enclosures. Thin material like plywood and sheet metal are not even going to come close to getting the best performance out of what you have. I once made a sub box out of 3/4" plywood, thinking it would be fine, it wasn't. It flexed too much and distorted the sound. I would imagine the sheet metal drain pans would be 10 times worse. You want to use very dense material to make sub boxes, the minimum would be 3/4" particle board. MDF would be great, but it is expensive and sometimes hard to find.

I built a speaker box for my folks old suburban I used to drive around when I was in high school. It housed four subs and two horn tweeters. I tried the plywood first, no go (hey, I was young). I then moved up to 3/4" particle board, much better, but still farty to my ears sometimes. I then reinforced the inside and that made it sound tollerable. The whole kitten kaboodle weighs about 150-180 pounds, including the amps, and they are small amps.

So dense is good, sheet metal bad. But experiment and have fun doing it, I did, and it seems you are too. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
My objective is to build an enclosure that fits inside of the spare tire. This is an especailly hard place to fit. The pans were close to the right size and could be fitted with a hammer. The pans themselves don't seem to be much of a problem, The larger problem is the rattle between the enclosure and the spare tire. To build it out of sheet material i would have to cut a large number of doughnuts out of sheet material then stack and glue them to form the enclosure.

I'm thinking that once i get the dimemsions worked I'll have it turned out of wood. I know a guy who has the equipment to do this. It would probably cost $100 for a rough turned one or $500 for a finished one.
 
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