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Still can't get the starter ouy!

1775 Views 15 Replies 11 Participants Last post by  i967mustang
I hope I don't have to drop the transmission to get this stupid starter out. What could have caused the starter to get that jammed in there? If I drop the trans, a Tremec 3550 going back in in place of the T-5.
Might as well make it worth the trouble.

1966 Mustang Coupe, 302 custom roller cam, holley 650dp,
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Seems like you have to. I have never ever heard of starter "welded" to flywheel as you have. Just let us know why it was so stubborn.

Door handle first
If you have to pull the tranny I have a good tremec 3550 for sale e-mail me
...... hehe, sorry.

Likely the reason it's jammed in there is that the drive has come apart and is wedged on the back side of the ring gear. Get some help here and put a pry between the mounting surface and the starter and try to turn the crank by putting a socket on the front of the crank. You also may need to pull the inspection cover off from the bottom of the bellhousing and use the teeth to move the flywheel. This is a bitch but it can be removed with patience.

Just FYI, pulling the trans will not nessessarily be a solution either. The bellhousing won't come loose from the block until the trans is out of the bellhousing, the clutch is removed from the flywheel, and the flywheel is removed, all from the inspection cover underneath and through the center hole in the back of the bellhousing. This is because of the thin plate between the block and the bellhousing. This plate is between the starter and the bellhousing. If it comes to that, the starter, bellhousing, the flywheel and that plate will all have to come out together.

Love hard, drive fast, wear your seat belt.

PS, thats's my 'bird...... My Mustang is too ugly to take pictures of yet........*G*.
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That definately would make removing tricky-the spacer plate etc.I wonder, didn't you say you had already broken an ear off of starter? Could you possibly remove the outer half of starter shell and separate it from the nose cone, the brushes and stuff would go flying, but if the core is already might be able to gain some access in there and wrench the shaft and drive free.I just can't remember how everything attaches, so this may not be possible, just a thought, hope this never happens with my 390 !

1967 S code GT Deluxe Coupe 65B
1966 Convertible 76B 289 4 speed
1964 Fairlane 500 2DR HT-the new project
1986 Jeep Cherokee 4X4 the "beater"
There is no inspection cover! I had the neighbor over today, he was pulling on the front bolt while
i pryed on the starter. I may try taking the starter apart and see if that helps. Thanks...

1966 Mustang Coupe, 302 custom roller cam, holley 650dp,
Try removing the inspection cover on the rear of the starter and turning the armature if you can to get the Bendix drive loose. I think you can also remove the long bolts that hold the starter together from the rear to take as much of is off as you can. Be careful if you wish to pry because you could damage the bell housing. Take as much off as you can and then tap around with a small rubber mallet or ball peen hammer. Could be a damaged ring gear too. Let's hope not!
I hate to say this, are you sure you have all the bolts out. Check it out closely with an inspection mirror.
Two bolts...there out.

1966 Mustang Coupe, 302 custom roller cam, holley 650dp,
Hook up the wire with the bolts out. It will come out if you hit the key... OK, OK, I didn't really suggest that...but I bet it would work.
Ditto, and a good example of why no PTTT!

:rofl: Im glad someone caught on..... :biggrin:
The bendix drive got stuck in the ring gear.

1. - Hit the starter with a BFH.

2. - Spin the motor from the front while hitting the starter with a BFH.

3. - Put the car on the groung and push it forward and back with it in gear (last option).

4. - Pizza -N- Beer!

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Wow, what a flashback...

What a change in color Bill :joker:
Sooo, is the starter out yet? :joker:
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