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Discussion Starter #1
Is this thing just really stuck or am i not doing something right?!?
i'm trying to get the crankshaft damper off my I6 200. I rented the damper/balancer puller tool from my auto store and hooked it up. started turning the screw with a ratchet, later with the impact wrench with no apparent success. Then, i started stripping threads on the puller and decided to call it a night. It doesnt appear that the thing has even budged. i even tried to 'help' it along a bit with some gentle prying(gasp), but didnt want to bend my crank.
whats the trick here?
also, how am i gonna return the puller with the stripped threads?(doh!)
mike o


[color:blue]'65 wimbledon white original coupe I6
'99 silver convertible V6

Check out Mike & Jackie's '65 Mustang </font color=blue>
 

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Did you remove the washer that is behind the bolt that holds the dampener on?


Black primer 66 coupe, bench seat, 68 302-2V, C-4, 3.55 TSD
879 posts as "66 bench-coupe" on old VMF
robert94928 on Yahoo Messenger
 
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Discussion Starter #3
yes, the big giant washer, right?

ive added some penetrating oil to the mating surface will try again tomorrow. BTW, it is supposed to separate along the line where the little alignment notch is, right?
geez, i just wanted to change my timing chain ='(


[color:blue]'65 wimbledon white original coupe I6
'99 silver convertible V6

Check out Mike & Jackie's '65 Mustang </font color=blue>
 

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Make sure the end of the puller doesn't have too big of an end on it. There's usuall 2 or 3 different sizes to put on so it pushes aghainst the crank. If its too big then it'll push against the dampener. Leave the penetrant in overnight and try tomorrow.

Black primer 66 coupe, bench seat, 68 302-2V, C-4, 3.55 TSD
879 posts as "66 bench-coupe" on old VMF
robert94928 on Yahoo Messenger
 
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Discussion Starter #5
robert,
say that again please? do you mean that the big bolt on the puller could be getting hung up on the damper hole and not seating against the crank?
mike o


[color:blue]'65 wimbledon white original coupe I6
'99 silver convertible V6

Check out Mike & Jackie's '65 Mustang </font color=blue>
 

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Yeah. In a puller kit there's usually 2 or 3 different tips to put on the end of the bolt to work with different size dampeners.

Black primer 66 coupe, bench seat, 68 302-2V, C-4, 3.55 TSD
879 posts as "66 bench-coupe" on old VMF
robert94928 on Yahoo Messenger
 

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I see you live in the bay area. Where 'bouts?

Black primer 66 coupe, bench seat, 68 302-2V, C-4, 3.55 TSD
879 posts as "66 bench-coupe" on old VMF
robert94928 on Yahoo Messenger
 

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........ hopefully to help and not confuse.

Are you sure you are actually using a balancer puller and not a pulley puller? My ballancer puller has 3/4" very fine threads and after about ten years of use and several realy tough jobs, is still in great shape. It seems odd that you could strip the threads on any quality built ballancer puller without breaking something first.

If so, you might try re-installing the bolt, without the washer, and threading it into the crank. Use the top of the bolt head to push against with the puller screw until you get some movement. Generally the ballancer bore is larger then the bolt head and the ballancer will come off over the bolt anyway.

Good luck, these can be a bear sometimes. Let us know what you find.

Hal
Love hard, drive fast, wear your seat belt.

PS, that's my 'bird...... My Mustang is too ugly to take pictures of yet........*G*.

http://www.teleport.com/~cosa/bird2.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter #10
hal,
thats a good idea!
guess what? the damper bolt wont go back in- apparently i stripped the inside threads with the puller bolt. This is turning into a nightmare. Will i be able to tap new threads or have i toasted this puppy?

BTW, it definitely is a balancer puller, not a pulley puller-i double checked.


thanks for your help.
mike o
am i ever gonna drive this car again?



[color:blue]'65 wimbledon white original coupe I6
'99 silver convertible V6

Check out Mike & Jackie's '65 Mustang </font color=blue>
 

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I remember that lesson from waay baack when. With certain pullers the end of the puller will start to thread into the crank snout...... boogers everything up pretty good.

First put something in there so you can get the ballancer off to have room to work. maby a 3/4" nut with a 1/2" bolt slid thru the center. Whatever will clear the ballancer bore but seat square against the end of the crank. Then install the puller and pull the ballancer off.

As far as the threads, it depends on how far back they are messed up. You might find that just the verry end is rounded over and you can dress it a bit with a dremel or something similar and get the bolt to start. If it's messed up deeply, you can re-tap the threads. Take the bolt with you when you buy the tap to get the right threads.


Hal
Love hard, drive fast, wear your seat belt.

PS, that's my 'bird...... My Mustang is too ugly to take pictures of yet........*G*.

http://www.teleport.com/~cosa/bird2.jpg
 
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Discussion Starter #12
This may sound stupid , but I had a similar problem trashing the threads on a spring compressor I bought. Returned it to the store and they said "what the hell kinda springs you tryin to compress" I said big block mustang, "Oh ..OK here is another spring compressor, yours must have been defective". Anyway the problem wasnt the compressor but the fact that I didn't lube the threaded shaft. Once I lubed the shaft ( generous coating of never seize ) I had no problems compressing the springs. Live and learn I guess. Perhaps you are having the same problem?

70 SCJ R-CODE MACH 1
88 GT
 
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