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I'm thinking of upgrading my stock headlaps to true 10000k HID (BMW, Benz...). The HID kit is for a H4 halogen upgrade. I have found all the nesassary parts to complete the install (ballasts, diamond lenses, H4 to HID). The question I have is will the factory head lamp wiring on my 66 gt be able to handle the increased load? Has anyone tried this? If anyone wants a parts list just let me know.
 

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White Elephant Guy
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You're going to need to upgrade your wiring. About the only thing the factory wiring will be good for will be to trigger a relay to fire up the HIDs. You're going to want to go right to the battery on this one...
 

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I would like to get a parts list and maybe some wiring diagrams if anyone has them. Also, I am upgrading my wiring with a painless wiring kit (just got it actually, early xmas). Is the new wiring going to be adequate for this mod or do I need to go to heavier guage wiring? What guage is needed for these HID headlamps?
 

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Nice looking car Jason. Tell me about the painless wiring, I had a friend that I helped install a Painless kit into. I was really disappointed that the loom was one piece from headlight to tail light, is yours this way???
 

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XENON HID lamps do not have a filament. Instead the light is created by an electrical discharge between two electrodes in an air tight tiny quartz capsule filled with xenon gas, mercury and metal halide salts. This improves durability as road vibrations can cause damage to coil lighting technologies. These light sources also produce a blue-white light that is safer because it is closer to natural daylight. The color temperature is approximately 5000 K compared to 2300 K for halogen. The increased light output from a 35 watt XENON HID lamp is approximately 200% more light then a 55 watt halogen bulb. The XENON HID system will also draw less power from your vehicles electrical system.
So if it draws less current than halogen Why would you have to replace your harness?
 

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White Elephant Guy
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If they are in fact more efficient then why to the HID upgrade kits come with a battery direct hookup? You would think they would just have HID bulbs or an intermediary ballast that you could plug your existing headlight plug into and then the ballast into the bulb. I haven't set one of these up in a while, but I know they do draw quite a bit and also get hot as hell.
 

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If they are in fact more efficient then why to the HID upgrade kits come with a battery direct hookup? You would think they would just have HID bulbs or an intermediary ballast that you could plug your existing headlight plug into and then the ballast into the bulb. I haven't set one of these up in a while, but I know they do draw quite a bit and also get hot as hell.
I copy and pasted what I read on the link above and was wondering the same thing myself. On one hand they say your stock harness will handle them on the other they sa to hook it direct but the sell both kits to do it either way?? Maybe I read incorrectly or maybe it is in the WATER .
 

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· Comes with well designed Ballast that come proprietarily equipped with an integrated auto safety interrupter protection circuit; thus, preventing any unnecessary damage to the Ballast due factors such as excessive heat, insufficient voltage, and sudden bursts of electricity.

· Uses a minimal amount of electricity only consuming 35W per-bulb versus the traditional 50W+ O.E.M. halogen bulb; therefore, greatly prolonging the life of the HID bulb yielding it a life expectancy lasting up to ten-times longer than customary halogen bulbs.

· Increases overall visibility by up to 200% over any halogen lighting system.

· Among the easiest HID kits to install on the market.

· Provided fool-proof positive (+) negative (-) specific connection which eliminates all issues associated with complicated wiring and obscure instructions, which tend to trouble most of the do-it-yourself installers.

· Very compact and it contains one of the smallest Igniter and Ballast (3” x 3” x 1½”) on the market today.

· Great length, containing a longer (20” wiring harness to igniter, wiring harness to power source, 24"+) and thicker 4” silicone coated wires which eliminate the need for any cutting, relocating, and modifying procedures needed to secure the Ballast in your vehicle; as a result, the Ballast can be placed away from the engine and moving parts if desired.

· AMP watertight sealed connectors and a sophisticated sealed Ballast and Igniter designed to sustain water and dust. Making the system virtually weather resistant. All bulbs also come with silicone rubber grommets that act as additional seals.

· Precision manufactured bulbs provide straight vertical alignment which do not in anyway alter your O.E.M. housing original beam pattern. As well, the H4 application comes with a refined glare shield that reduces unnecessary amounts of glare, which tends to blind on-coming traffic.

· Each HID kit must pass through a rigorous Quality Assurance processing team before any piece(s) are removed from the production line. We strongly believe in the products workmanship and to solidify the thoughts of worried customers we offer a very competitive market warranty, which is 1 year from the original date of purchase.
Now, including free heavy duty wiring harnesses with the sale of any HID kit purchase!

The relay wiring kit bypasses the installation of the ballast's power lead directly into your factory headlights wiring system. This plug and play relay system ensures that your factory wiring is not used to power the Ballast, but will take power directly through the vehicle's battery.

The relay wiring harness also ensures that you will never exceed the ratings of your vehicles OEM headlight's wiring.

Includes:

A machine laid harness, (2) 20A Fuses, (2) 30A Relays, (2) PNP Power connections, and (2) Ground connection points. Wiring is encapsulated in a 105'C heat resistant shielding.
HMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!!
 

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Aha! While the bulbs themselves might pass muster on the stock wiring harness, it appears that the ballast portion requires the relay. Together, the bulbs and the ballast won't work on stock wiring harnesses.
 

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I wouldn't attempt to install HID bulb into a H4 headlamps. When you do this you will be blinding oncoming cars, also you won't have any high-beams. If I was you research into this a little more. These two sites are great for information on HID and how to convert over from halogen to true HID's with projects like all modern HID equipped cars. Also 10K bulbs are junk. http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/ and http://faqlight.carpassion.info/
 

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I don't know yet. Haven't had a chance to even get it out of the box yet. I will post my findings once I start laying it out.
 

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I wouldn't attempt to install HID bulb into a H4 headlamps. When you do this you will be blinding oncoming cars, also you won't have any high-beams. If I was you research into this a little more. These two sites are great for information on HID and how to convert over from halogen to true HID's with projects like all modern HID equipped cars. Also 10K bulbs are junk. http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/ and http://faqlight.carpassion.info/
I agree. The 10k lights will have a cool color to them, but intensity of the light is less than say a 6500. I had found a conversion HID kit on ebay for $100 (it had a generic title so no one really saw it) and was gonna bite on it, but i wanted to retain my high beams. Sure the beams are as bright as my high beams all the time but i still like to know that my lights can get brighter when i need them.

Also true that the bulbs don't need much juice, but the ballasts do. When you first turn the lights on, it sucks alot of power to heat the xenon gas.
 

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Cool color? It's going to look ****ty. Those don't come stock on ANYTHING, and your view will be crappy.

As for why they need beefy wiring, its because they suck a lot of juice initially when you power them up. Also note, dont "blink" these lights, or turn them off then on again without waiting a significant amount of time. They will supply the initial surge to heat them up again, even though they are hot, which is really bad for them.
 
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