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Nice. Sure would like to see a floor plan of your place. Looks really cool.
 

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Sweet! Remember to spend some time with family and not ALL of it self isolating in the garage!
What! My wife begs my to go to the garage and out of her hair.

Guess I'm jealous. I've only done 1/2 the boxes so far.
 

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'69 Mustang coupe...331, Fox / Explorer EFI, TK3550, MDL, SoT, TCP, Fays2 Watts, 94-04 Cobra discs
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Someone has a Hummer too...
 

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Very nice. I keep looking at that three link but then some unexpected bill hits and I'm back underwater. Post up plenty of pics for us- next best thing!
 

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Well that didn't take long! Install went according to plan? Any snags?
The square U brackets were slightly too narrow. The bottom of my car is a one piece (rails to tail) floor, so that may be a factor. I laughed at the instructions saying I should tap it with a rubber mallet. The front brace didn't end up as flush as I would have liked, but its on. The driver side bump stop on the arc of the wheel well is back about 3/4" compared to the passenger side. Enough to get in the way of the rear bracket. I just took the 4" disc and cleared some room in the back of it along the frame. Other than that, not bad. The transmission jack came in handy to set and hold the rear bracket, as well as get the housing in place while I bolted it on. Towards the end, the directions could be more clear on setting the driver side wats link attach point before fine tuning (several pages later).

But clearly not too difficult seeing as the time between pictures. Though, I haven't put the gears or brakes on yet, but that shouldn't take too long either. Also being a test fit, I didn't worry about getting it fine tuned as it will be coming off to get painted.
 

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Same set-up I have . . . still in boxes. I've had the front suspension for 4 years and the rear for 3 years. I bought those first because I figured if I didn't do it while I had the money I never would. I thought if I got too involved with the car I would be in too big of a hurry to finish it (driving condition) and not do it the way I wanted. So, I should finally get around to putting the suspensions on this summer. Metal fab and repairs are about done.
 

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I have the three link and axle, and when I first got it, assembled the brake backing plates to the axle. Well, that was a mistake because the parking brake clevis couldn't be attached to the lever at the backing plate due to interference with the axle shock mount. So I had to remove the backing plates, assemble the clevis and cable onto the lever then reassemble. One thing I do wish would be included in the instructions is a chart listing all the torque specs in one place.
I didn't want a rear axle vent in the trunk, so I used a K&N 62-1090 filter that will hopefully work and keep the hot lube fumes out of the trunk. I fabbed a simple L bracket, and it bolts up next to the frame rail. The filter has a stud on top for mounting and a 3/8" bung on the bottom
 

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The square U brackets were slightly too narrow. The bottom of my car is a one piece (rails to tail) floor, so that may be a factor. I laughed at the instructions saying I should tap it with a rubber mallet. The front brace didn't end up as flush as I would have liked, but its on. The driver side bump stop on the arc of the wheel well is back about 3/4" compared to the passenger side. Enough to get in the way of the rear bracket. I just took the 4" disc and cleared some room in the back of it along the frame. Other than that, not bad. The transmission jack came in handy to set and hold the rear bracket, as well as get the housing in place while I bolted it on. Towards the end, the directions could be more clear on setting the driver side wats link attach point before fine tuning (several pages later).

But clearly not too difficult seeing as the time between pictures. Though, I haven't put the gears or brakes on yet, but that shouldn't take too long either. Also being a test fit, I didn't worry about getting it fine tuned as it will be coming off to get painted.
Its amazing how varied these cars frame rails are. Some of our frames sit perfectly by hand, some need the 'dead blow mallet' persuasion and in a small number of cases more invasive action is required.
 

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I have the three link and axle, and when I first got it, assembled the brake backing plates to the axle. Well, that was a mistake because the parking brake clevis couldn't be attached to the lever at the backing plate due to interference with the axle shock mount. So I had to remove the backing plates, assemble the clevis and cable onto the lever then reassemble. One thing I do wish would be included in the instructions is a chart listing all the torque specs in one place.
I didn't want a rear axle vent in the trunk, so I used a K&N 62-1090 filter that will hopefully work and keep the hot lube fumes out of the trunk. I fabbed a simple L bracket, and it bolts up next to the frame rail. The filter has a stud on top for mounting and a 3/8" bung on the bottom
I run my car hard enough to get rear end fluid up into the tank. You may find you get gear oil burping out of that element... Even my street car '70 burbs gear oil into a trunk mounted catch tank. That car sees the occasional red line blasts on the street but nothing extended like the track car. I think you could be potentially setting yourself up for a big stinky mess.
 
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