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Last weekend I did the Arning 1" drop on my '69, and installed new springs, shocks, and roller perches while I was in there. Dropped the car off for an alignment today, and the shop told me that my caster adjustment is at the max right now so they won't be able to do much with it. I'm thinking maybe it's time to get rid of the stock strut rods, and go with something better.

Having done a search of VMF, I know that the SOT strut rods get a lot of high praise, so I do not doubt that it is a great product. How do the Global West rods compare? Better, worse, the same? Will either one allow me to adjust my caster better than the stock rods?

The reason why I'm looking at the GW rods is because Jegs carries them at the same cost as the SOT rods, and I need to pick up other stuff from them anyways so it would be convenient for me to get the GW rods (being in Canada, I try to save as much on shipping as possible..)

Any reason why I shouldn't get the GW strut rods?

Thanks for any help!
 

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Shaun, the problem is shipping across the border. It gets expensive. Then to have to pay to have 2 shipments...well, as I said that would cinch it for me.

Personally, would prefer to deal with you.
 

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pprince said:
Shaun, the problem is shipping across the border. It gets expensive. Then to have to pay to have 2 shipments...well, as I said that would cinch it for me.

Personally, would prefer to deal with you.
Thanks. Don't forget I can supply pretty much everything Jegs does too - http://www.streetortrack.com/files/st-line-card.pdf
 

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I would want the ones with steer stops built in. This is a very important piece. Without the steer stops, all the energy of potholes, driveways, etc get transfered into your steering gear when at full lock.

A set that replaces the rubber bushings with solid heim joints, will help keep your caster set better, and more caster is better with Radial tires, as compared to bias ply(as originally equiped).
Another option is the RRS adapters. The advantage here is the pivot point remains at the stock location, for less caster change throughout suspension travel.
Good luck!
 

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66_Runt said:
I would want the ones with steer stops built in. This is a very important piece. Without the steer stops, all the energy of potholes, driveways, etc get transfered into your steering gear when at full lock.

A set that replaces the rubber bushings with solid heim joints, will help keep your caster set better, and more caster is better with Radial tires, as compared to bias ply(as originally equiped).
Another option is the RRS adapters. The advantage here is the pivot point remains at the stock location, for less caster change throughout suspension travel.
Good luck!
what are the RRS adapters ?

Z. Ray
 

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After having both, I would go with the ones from Shaun, even if they cost a bit more. The GW struts have the front bearing/bushing pressed in and it isn't servicable. The SorT units are built better, have a better finish and are servicable. That did it for me.

John
 

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Opentracker said:
After having both, I would go with the ones from Shaun, even if they cost a bit more. The GW struts have the front bearing/bushing pressed in and it isn't servicable. The SorT units are built better, have a better finish and are servicable. That did it for me.

John
+1
 

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One more negative on the GW pieces - not enough adjustment.
 

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Don't have the GW pieces on either my 66 track
car or my wife's 68 street car. There were some
issues with the first version released a few
years ago- w. front mount made from aluminum.
I'm not crazy about rod ends in this location,
regardless of the materials used.

ex-GW General Manager
1991-1994
 

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I have the SOT strut rods and would highly recomend them, although I have never delt with GW. Also Shaun is very good to deal with.
 

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1 Owner said:
Don't have the GW pieces on either my 66 track
car or my wife's 68 street car. There were some
issues with the first version released a few
years ago- w. front mount made from aluminum.
I'm not crazy about rod ends in this location,
regardless of the materials used.

ex-GW General Manager
1991-1994
What do you prefer to the rod ends?
 

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When I was at GW, we looked into all kinds of
solutions, but I think ultimately it was ONLY the
market pressure from other manufacturers that led
to the release of their design.
It's the only piece they make that I don't have.
I've always had modified '67 strut rods on my 66.
It uses a combination of parts from the Moog
strut bushing kit (K 8157) for 67/68 cars- kinda
mix and match if you will. (There's some size
issues trying to fit that kit because the 65/66
is tighter in that area, so you have to make a
hybrid kit - K8157 bushings actually come apart)
My setup doesn't have quite the control of a rod
end, but it's safer - way over 3000 track miles
and no issues....
 

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1 Owner said:
When I was at GW, we looked into all kinds of
solutions, but I think ultimately it was ONLY the
market pressure from other manufacturers that led
to the release of their design.
It's the only piece they make that I don't have.
I've always had modified '67 strut rods on my 66.
It uses a combination of parts from the Moog
strut bushing kit (K 8157) for 67/68 cars- kinda
mix and match if you will. (There's some size
issues trying to fit that kit because the 65/66
is tighter in that area, so you have to make a
hybrid kit - K8157 bushings actually come apart)
My setup doesn't have quite the control of a rod
end, but it's safer - way over 3000 track miles
and no issues....
FWIW, I just took off the very first ever pair of our strut rods from my 66. We put them on the car in Feb 2003 the morning before a track day at Laguna Seca:

http://www.streetortrack.com/files/vmf/goingtowork.jpg

The bearing had zero play, the only noticeable difference was that it rotated in its housing slightly easier than a new one. The only reason I took them off the car was this set was painted and not our usual powder coating (so we could blast and inspect for cracks etc.). The paint was looking ratty so I swapped them to look swanky against our prototype control arms:

http://www.streetortrack.com/files/vmf/tubulararms.jpg

This is after almost 7 years of street driving and so many track days I can't remember how many. I'm pretty happy with that as a long term test. Not to mention the hundreds of sets that are out there with not a single bearing failure/issue.

I've looked into using a ball joint type setup but I don't see any reason to change what we have. It works and so far works very well.
 

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Heim Joint vs. Spherical Bearing

For a '67 & up car that already has caster adjustment in the strut rods, what are the advantages / disadvantages to just going with a spherical bearing type arrangement like the one from RRS linked above vs the heim joint full strut rod assemblies? I've seen a similar setup available from Calvert as well. It looks much simpler than the heim joint setups.
 

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For a '67 & up car that already has caster adjustment in the strut rods, what are the advantages / disadvantages to just going with a spherical bearing type arrangement like the one from RRS linked above vs the heim joint full strut rod assemblies? I've seen a similar setup available from Calvert as well. It looks much simpler than the heim joint setups.
Shaun or someone can probably explain this better, but from what I understand, the stock rubber bushings allow the strut rod to move forward/backwards during braking and it changes the alignment. Not a good thing to basically have it steer itself when you hit the brakes. :skullnbones: You can really see this in some track videos, the wheel will twitch violently when they nail the brakes at 100mph+. Most people report a big difference in how the car drives on the street as well. Personally, I can't wait to get mine built and put in. :D
 
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