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Hi guys,

I've been looking into my summertime mods and subframe connectors are one of the big things I'd like to install. I see that Tin Mans and Meier's come highly rated, but what I am really looking for is a connector that is contoured to the floor so it can be welded to the floor as well as both of the ends of the subframes. I'd much prefer it to be as solid and stock-looking as possible. So, can someone point me in the right direction on those?

Thanks! :pirate:
 

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i dont think ive seen sub frame connectors that weld in solid i have global west on mine and they do contour to the rear and meat up in the front fine they are weld in and the bar does hug the floor realy close i tried to up load photos but its not working right now
 

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Not sure if you are looking to make them or buy them, daze cars has plans to make them. I made mine using his plans and they allowed me to actually place them under the car and get a very tight fit to the floors before welding them together. I tacked / welded them to the flloors in a number of places and then used seam sealer to "seal" them to the floors, they look great and were fun to make.
DazeCars, Home Made Mustang sub-frame connectors
 

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I too made the daze ones (Same as Tinmans?).. I then cut piece of angle iron, welded to the connectors, and the floor, in various areas.
 

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These are how the global west look on the car if interested. I would not call them factory looking but I use them.

Note: These do have the optional jacking rails



 

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You want to use some kind of tubing (I prefer square) for maximum strength. Unfortunately tubing is straight and the undersides of our cars is contoured a bit. You can get pretty close if you make your own. I was after snug fitting connectors too but the only to get what I wanted was to make my own. Didn't take too long to figure I wasn't interested in all the detail work it would take to make them conform 100% to the floor. I'd say I managed to get about 2/3's of mine flush and welded to the pans. I took a real liking to Total Control's bolt-in center brace and integrated that into my design. I also have a roll bar. The ends of the main hoop braces go through the floor and are welded to the octagonal looking sections. This pic was the last mockup before install. A few years back now. One day I'll raise it up enough to get an underside picture. If I hadn't wanted to do my own thing with mine I think the Tinman versions would have been the ones to buy.
 

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Maecomotorsport makes some that follow the floor contour. theres are track tested and are used by many roadracers including me. their fone number is 818-701-1923. talk to Mike. i'v ben doing business with Maeco since 1995 and live a few miles from the shop. they design stuff that works. a foto of my Maeco connectors. i'll try to take a better foto later. UPDATE > see bottom of page for new fotos.
 

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Call Mike Meier and talk with him. He's a great guy and would be able to answer all of your questions.
Stan
 

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Maecomotorsport makes some that follow the floor contour. theres are track tested and are used by many roadracers including me. their fone number is 818-701-1923. talk to Mike. i'v ben doing business with Maeco since 1995 and live a few miles from the shop. they design stuff that works. a foto of my Maeco connectors. i'll try to take a better foto later.

I'm interested in learning more about the subframe connectors you have. I'm not able to make out much in that pic, and their website doesn't show that particular product.

I know you mentioned that you'd post another pic later. I'd like to see it.
 

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I have the TCP subframe connectors and they fit pretty close to the floor in most places. Is there any reason you are wanting to weld it to the floor? I don't think it would add all that much extra strength - the body stiffens up nicely by just welding them to the front and rear frames. The gap between the floor and the subframe connectors on my car is anywhere from about 1/2" down to metal on metal contact (or very close to contact). I had to notch the ribs on the floor pan in several places so the square tubing would fit without pushing the floor up. Overall, I think they have a very nice fit. The biggest gap is at the rear where the two floor pieces come together. For the majority of the length, the gap is probably no more than 1/8" or so.



 

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Maecomotorsport weld on frame rails. these extent to the rear of the seat pan. according to Mike at Maeco they dont add any additional rigity when extended all the way back. welding them in every few inches like ford did will give the most rigidity. i was originally going to use some aftermarket tube ones and weld tab to them and the floor every few inches. you drill the old frame rails off and weld these on. these are thicker 14 gauge steel frame rails. they tried the tube type and they extended them all the back. the tube type that bolt or weld on each end dont do anytink for a car that corners. extending them all the way back only added dead weight. there was a signifiacnt improvement with the ones they make. call 818-701-1923(Maeco) for additional info.
 

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Welding to the floor pans is likely to be overkill for a street mod unless you have big plans. You will be amazed just backing out of the driveway how different the car feels. I did the daze/tinman style but sculpted in the rear so it follows the contour and doesn't look so jury-rigged. I was surprised that it only took about half a Saturday to turn $20 of square tubing into a nice set of connectors. The plans posted are dead on.
 

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I have a set of Spintechs, they are weld in all the way around, I have yet to install them for that very reason. It's going to be a pretty big undertaking as the interior will have to come out, then the underside will have to be painted.
 

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do you have metal working skills? you could go custom.

mine are welded along the entire floor and the ribbing modified to look like it was supposed to be that way.

it made the floor pans themselves sound more solid.







 

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Yep, now I don't WANT to post an underside pic of mine. Might have been a different story if I had a rotisserie rather than four jackstands. Maybe. VERY nice work Buckeyed.
 

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Very nice work, buckeye! I hope mine looks that good when I finally get the underside finished.
 

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Wow, some great looking custom work! Very impressed.

The reason I was asking for welded to floor in the first place is because it seems like the best way to go. Not only would it add extra stability to all parts of the floor, but it would also solidify it (like Buck said). Also, that would reduce surfaces to rust - I imagine that road crap would sit on top of a rail that hangs down, not to mention any branches or other things I had to go over in the road could get squashed up in there. Not saying it would happen, but on a daily driver it certainly has a higher potential.

I am having my body guy put them in for me and he specifically asked for this type. I think he'd put in the other type, but he'd give me grief about it. I might see if he's got the time this summer to build me a set like the DazeCar ones or Buck's. Will look into the Spintechs too - they seem like a good option. In the end though, price might be the winner unfortunately. Just doing my best to compromise as much as possible! :)
 
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