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Discussion Starter #1
Hey folks. Quick question for you all.....

What is you preffered sub-frame connector for a 1967-68 coupe? Having searched all around I feel like the Detroit Speed version is what I will choose. But, I also like the TCP setup with a eye down the road for their whole bracing kit. My fear with that is whether or not it will interfere with the exhaust system.

This is all speculative on my part as I haven't bought a Coupe yet. But I have been talking to a guy that has a entire project for sale that I fully intend to buy in the coming month or two.Thanks for your help.
 

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I investigated the Detroit Speed sub-frame connectors for my '66 and determined that I didn't want to cut the floor to accommodate their "half in / half out" design (if that's the one you are referring to). I opted for the Hotchkis set that requires no floor cutting. They are similar construction, but I believe the Hotchkis units are a thicker wall tubing. I've attached a couple of images to illustrate how they attach at each end. The bolts in the pictures were only used to position them for welding, then removed and welded up. They were ultimately plug and perimeter welded in place.

737497
737498
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok. That's nice. I like how they seem to cradle the leaf spring mount. Also, yes, I was referring to the in/out subs from Detroit. The floors in the coupe have been replaced so I will have no issues cutting them up, lol. But, less time spent on a wizz wheel is always better.
 

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I used the Global West subframe connectors on my '68 coupe... welded in. Made a big difference. I like how they look under the car. I have no idea how they compare to other subframe connectors.

 

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Discussion Starter #5
I've looked at those too. Honestly, I prefer a connector made out of square stock that I can put a jack under without worrying about it. Plus, I'd ultimately rather have one that also sits flat against the floor. Which, from the pics, looks like the Detroit Speed version does.
 

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The rear half of the Hotchkis set fits up against the floor, then opens as it extends forward to the front sub-frame. It is also a thinner box section. The DS set is constructed of 1.5 x 2.5" box (.083" wall). The Hotchkis set is 1 x 2.5" box (.095" wall).
Both sets are $208
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm having a hard time finding pictures of them installed. As for the DS connectors, I just watched the install vid. It is definitely a lot of work. But if done correctlly, looks pretty slick.
 

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Another option is the subframe connectors from Spintech. A number of builders here have used them. I am installing them on my 70 Mach 1. However, since I used the TCP front subframe, I have found that mods are required for the two to work together. What is unique with the Spintech subframe connectors is they are perimeter welded along the floor, not just at the ends.
 

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From the rear sub-frame, they hug the floor tightly until the floor steps up forward of the rear footwell.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the help so far.

The reason I am asking about them is that the car is coming to me stripped with all of the sheetmetal work done. The guy selling it is a bodyman that owns his own shop. He has stated that the car is square to within about a 1/8". So, if and when I bring it home, I want to put subs in it immediatelly in order to keep it that way.
 

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Spintech subframe connectors center of photograph. To the top right of the photograph are a a pair of Heidts subframe connectors for a 65-66 Convertible.




Attached are photographs of the Spintech Subframe connectors on a 65 Fastback. They do require lot of trimming whereas the Heidts can be as simple as a bolt on. However, I would recommend sleeving the subframe connectors, otherwise the subframe connectors could crush the floor supports. I would also recommend looking at the Maier Racing subframe connectors as they wrap around the rear frame rails a little more for added strength. As others have mentioned, you will want to have your suspension planned out as not all of these designs will play nicely with certain 4-link designs.



 

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Thanks for the help so far.

The reason I am asking about them is that the car is coming to me stripped with all of the sheetmetal work done. The guy selling it is a bodyman that owns his own shop. He has stated that the car is square to within about a 1/8". So, if and when I bring it home, I want to put subs in it immediatelly in order to keep it that way.
Unless you're dragging it home behind the truck it'll take quite a lot to get the car twisted. I don't know of any subframe connectors that are "bad" or wouldn't stiffen the car. Can't really go wrong with any of the name brand units.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Unless you're dragging it home behind the truck it'll take quite a lot to get the car twisted. I don't know of any subframe connectors that are "bad" or wouldn't stiffen the car. Can't really go wrong with any of the name brand units.

I'm thinking more about jacking it up and down and the extended periods it's up in the air on stands while I build it. I know it isn't likely to wiggle on me. But since I will do connectors anyway, I'd rather have the peace of mind to install them from the jump.

I also have a bay lift. So it can hang the rear of the car sky high under the rear end.
 
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