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Discussion Starter #1
Guys I'm making a new fuel line pump to carb. I bought the 5/16" double annealed stainless tubing (20' roll) from Summit. I flared this using my cheapy double flaring tool which is designed for copper or aluminum. It took a few trys to get a technique that would make a good double flare every time. Thought some might be interested.

When I just used the flaring kit my itself, the flaring screw would just push the tube backwards right out of the flaring fixture. The thumbscrews on the flaring fixture just aren't up to the task of getting you enough clamping force to hold the stainless tubing. However, I was able to get a great flare by clamping up the tubing and then putting the whole flaring fixture in a 4" bench-mounted vise so that the vise held the two sides of the flaring fixture tighter around the tubing.

Worked great. Also, this tubing comes with part numbers inked every few inches down it. A little metal polish on a shop rag will take the ink off in nothing flat. I think it's going to look great and I'll be able to put the whole shabang together with NO rubber lines...which is my goal. I'll post pictures when I get it done.

Phil

'65 Convertible (with many mods.)
http://www.blueriver.net/~finite/Pony.htm
 
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Thanx for the info. I am about to put a new intake and carb on my stang and I was planning on buying a fuel line kit from summit. Maybe I will just buy the SS tubing and do what you did.

TJ
66 coupe 302 2v c4 -daily driver
94 GT vert -SWMBO's
93 Aerostar - hauling stuff
 
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Hi Phil, I just took a look at your Holley carb on your web page. Do you plan to use the same style of filter with your new tubing? I am hoping to have a very clean look, so I am trying to see what my options are.

TJ
66 coupe 302 2v c4 -daily driver
94 GT vert -SWMBO's
93 Aerostar - hauling stuff
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I went to pep boys and found a purelator filter that had a 3/8" NPT on one end and 5/16 flare on the other end. I've got the holley fuel pump, then I 90 up, then the fuel filter converts me over to flare. The good thing about flare fittings (as opposed to NPT) is you can take the line apart at any flare. This will let me change the filter by disconnecting the flare at the filter and unscrewing it from the 90.

The next thing I need is a 5/16 double flare 90. I bought the 5/16" holley double flare fuel bowl fitting to replace my banjo fitting. I need a tight 90 there to turn me forward and down, to clear a drop base air filter. I'm thinking about sneaking over to the hardware store later and try to get it. SWMBO will probably bust me though. I'm home today with a bad ear infection, sinus infection and strep throat. I'm sure it has NOTHING to do with laying on the cold concrete floor of my barn all morning Saturday taking my fender off.

Phil

'65 Convertible (with many mods.)
http://www.blueriver.net/~finite/Pony.htm
 

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Thanks Phil....that's an old pipe fitters trick...

It usually isn't necessary on annealed steel tubing but that darned stainless is so hard to flare....

I had to do the same thing when double flaring the 3/16" SS lines on the race car...man were my hands worn out after that episode....*G*

Pat


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Double flaring has become second nature to me. After two brake swaps I have learned the ins and outs. It is a great skill to have though.

But that darn SS stuff is a killer. I actually managed to double flare a SS line on the car... that was the day I knew I had it /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

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1967 351W Convertible
2000 Mustang GT
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Solid fuel line from pump to carb just like our Ford did for the original '65s. It was '66 that they moved the fuel filter to the carb and created that rubber fuel line next to the distributor thing.

Thanks for the tip. I have a hard time double flaring normal steel tubing!

Dean T

Shikatta Ga Nai - "It cannot be helped"
 
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