[biglaw22]

I am entertaining the idea of slapping easy boost (no turbo plumbing) on a 66 mustang with a 302 and want to understand my options since a large area swap meet is 6 weeks away and I like good deals.

I am trying to figure out if i need to go the Paxton/Novi/vortex and blow through carb or if I can draw through and fit a B&M/Weiand/Holley 142/144or a 174/177 under the 66 stang-aholics fiberglass hood with 67 Shelby style hood scoop that cam with my car. I found this old post, Supercharger

I’m wondering if anyone is already running a similar setup. It looks like I have 12-13” from the bottom of the intake to the underside of the hood.

 

[ArizonaGT]

I’d say that’s cutting it real close. But your project sounds wicked 🤘

 

[W427]

You can do almost anything, but some are more planning, work or cost. #1, pick your fuel for primary build requirements. Decide what your primary goals are, so you know your options as you see them and minimum requirements and costs that go with them. For example, EFI fuel and ignition would be suggested for reliability and safety with ease of tuning of course, but possibly more importantly for you, can also reduce height requirements or allow space for drive gear. Set your goals and preferences, and start planning.

 

[DrStang]

I'm partial to the centrifugal units. But you'll need a modified blow thru carb to get optimum function. Before I went EFI , I used a Holley HP carb and modified it. Guaranteed hood clearance.

 

[biglaw22]

I was not planing on going MPFI anytime soon, but you make a good point with the extra clearance. I know I have lots to consider. Right now I’m just looking for options/confirmation so I don’t jump on a good deal if I can’t make it work.

 

[Roddster]

Look up 66 Shelby Paxton superchargers. They fit with no hood interference.

 

[zray]

Look up 66 Shelby Paxton superchargers. They fit with no hood interference.

this ^^^^^^^.
When done properly, the vintage Paxtons will gain you an easy 100 HP when added to the stock 289 Shelby GT-350 engine. The basic Holley Street HP carb requires few modifications to get in sync with the moderate boost levels of the vintage Paxton.

Z

 

[biglaw22]

The more I think about this, the more I'm leaning toward rear gear and trac-loc as the first upgrade and a 4R70W as the second upgrade. I'm thinking I should keep my eye out for a 9" or just go with a new 8" center section with 3.50-3.80 gears since the car will only see occasional freeway trips. This does not sound nearly as cool as a supercharger, but I think it accomplishes the same end goal.

 

[zray]

“…… I'm leaning toward rear gear and trac-loc as the first upgrade and a 4R70W as the second upgrade. I'm thinking I should keep my eye out for a 9" or just go with a new 8" center section with 3.50-3.80 gears since the car will only see occasional freeway trips. This does not sound nearly as cool as a supercharger, but I think it accomplishes the same end goal.

Re-reading your original and subsequent posts on this topic, I’m not sure what “same end goal” you are talking about …. Can you elaborate ?

Z

 

[biglaw22]

Re-reading your original and subsequent posts on this topic, I’m not sure what “same end goal” you are talking about …. Can you elaborate ?

Z

The end goal is fun factor. I’m not chasing numbers, just improvements that the butt dyno can pick up. I’d like the car to launch harder and I was thinking if I came across a blower at the swap meet it would solve this problem. Changing the rear gears and adding overdrive would have a similar impact to the fun factor and the 4R70W would allow for some shift adjustment and it would not be spinning at 3000rpm in the freeway.

 

[zray]

It’s fine to want lower cruising rpm, but be sure you are wanting that for your own comfort or desires. The engine certainly won’t mind going all day long at 3,000 to 4,000 rpm. It won’t wear out faster and it won’t blow up. If those rpm’s were bad for vintage Ford engines I would’ve blown up or worn out many of them by now.

Z

 

[biglaw22]

It’s fine to want lower cruising rpm, but be sure you are wanting that for your own comfort or desires. The engine certainly won’t mind going all day long at 3,000 to 4,000 rpm. It won’t wear out faster and it won’t blow up. If those rpm’s were bad for vintage Ford engines I would’ve blown up or worn out many of them by now.

Z

Yeah, it's more for keeping the noise down for the wife and kids at that point and the 4R70W gives you a little more gear in 1st as well. I still want the supercharger so If I see a good deal on one it may find its way home with me.

 

[Grimbrand]

Yeah, it's more for keeping the noise down for the wife and kids at that point and the 4R70W gives you a little more gear in 1st as well. I still want the supercharger so If I see a good deal on one it may find its way home with me.

3.73 (or 3.75 if it's a 9") and a 4R70W will probably give you about the same amount of gear on the highway you'd have with 2.79 stock highway gears and a C4. You just get a lot lower 1st and 2nd. =)

 

[W427]

+1, and the C4 to 4R difference in 1st gear is 1.154, so multiply your rear gear by that number to find the effective 1st gear ratio you'd see. For example, a 3.73:1 rear axle times 1.154 = 4.30 effective ratio. Sure, they used that ratio in Drag Pak cars, but is that too short? Not when it's shifting exactly when it needs to, faster than you can blink, and still have effective 2.61:1 at cruise in OD. 😈