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Hello all.
I have a 66 A Code Coupe. I am in the process of buying new suspension and need some help. The car is my daily driver, but I also want it to handle well (more like a late model mustang and less like a 1966 Mustang - I apologize if that is too subjective).
I had planned on installing the handling kit that NPD offers (600# 1" lowering springs, KYB Gas A Justs, Rear End Lowering Kit, 1" front sway bar and 3/4 rear sway bar with poly bushings). I was also going to install heavy duty rear springs, with polyurethane shackles.
After talking with a local restoration shop here in the Atlanta area, it was suggested that I use rubber bushings, not use the kit. So here is my other plan:
480# 1" lowering springs, KYB GR2 Shocks, 1 1/8" sway bar with polyurethane bushings, heavy duty leaf springs (Eaton) with repro shackles.
Does anyone have a similar setup on a 66? Do you have pictures? How is the ride? How does it handle? What would you all recommend?
I apologize for the long post and for all the questions. The restoration shop said you all would have good information, far be it from me to not utilize such a wonderful resource.

Thank you,
Hammer
 

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The general consensus with poly is to not use it for the strut rod bushings because it is too stiff and may stress the strut rod to the point of breaking. Other applications are generally ok as long as it's lubed properly due to its propensity to squeak otherwise.

If you're going to install new rear springs and lowering blocks, why not just get the mid-eye or reverse-eye springs which will lower the car 1"-2"and thus negate the need for the lowering blocks. Mustang Plus in Stockton, CA sells them but they are also likely available from other vendors.
 

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Comparing your option #1 to your option #2, the second route will give you a bit smoother ride than the first due to the GR2s and the 480 springs. I'm also not sure of the price difference, but for most applications a 1" sway bar will be fine.

How are your upper and lower control arms? If you are going to be putting all of this other stuff in, it doesn't really make sense to leave those in unless they are in really good shape. You will definitely want to swap them now as opposed to doing it later.

A couple other things I would toss into the mix for you to consider are an export brace (a must) and roller spring perches.

Good luck and have fun.
 

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Hammer,
I remember seeing you get raped on the Corner Carvers site a bit ago. I think you'll find the folks here much more forgiving and helpful. Corner Carvers is good to read, but unless you really know what you're talking about, step away from the keyboard. As for your questions, I think that you should try to differentiate between stiffening the chassis and stiffening the suspension. While you should always try to stiffen the chassis (subframe connectors, torque boxes if you don't have them on both sides, export brace, monte carlo bar, etc.) it may or may not suit your needs to stiffen the suspension. Everyone likes their ride quality a little different. Some like poly bushings throughout with KYB shocks and higher rate coils. Some want to save their spine a little more. What makes "tuning" the suspension fun but also potentially expensive is that you likely will try several different combinations of springs, shocks, bushings, etc. before you find the setup you like. And right when you do, something new will come out that you just have to have!! :biggrin: Good luck, and ask lots of questions. But please try the search exhaustively first, you can learn a lot by reading.
 

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I'll share my plan: rebuilt suspension, rebuilt steering box Shelby drop, perfromance alignment, GR2 shocks, new GT leaf springs, 480# 1" drop coil springs, 1" front & no rear sway, Export brace and Monte Carlo bar, Globabl West subframe connectors, and roller perches. From what I can tell from people with similar setups, it'll ride pretty good and handle great. Southeastern Ohio is lauded for the (lacking) road quality, so it'd better ride good. :: I'm not sold on the idea of fancy bushings or rear bars. All the aftermarket bushings seem to self destruct or make noises you'd usually hear in an aquarium.
HTH
--Kyle
 

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Two critical concepts (already mentioned) stiffen the frame, and free up the suspension.

To stiffen, put in subframe connectors, export brace and a montecarlo bar.

To free up the suspension, put in roller spring perches (most important), adjustable heim jointed strut rods (homemade can be done for way less than $100, store bought will run $300 or more).

Other things to consider: anti-sway bars (1" front and 3/4" rear are plenty), nice shocks.

Spring are just personal taste.

John Harvey
 

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The second set up you mentioned sounds like a good plan. I have been hearing some bad things about rear sway bars (I had one on mine but I took it off). I have the 480# 1" drop springs from NPD on my car in the sig, they are a nice spring. I do have a set of standard 4 leafs in the back with 1" blocks, but wish I would of went the the reverse eye springs. I have a set of kybs on mine too and the ride isnt that bad at all. Id also take a look like others said about new control arms, especially on a daily driver.
 
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