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Hey all, ok so i'm finally starting put parts back into the car instead of removing them and of course I knew there would be a few snags. The car was taken apart long ago and I never wrote anything down, BIG MISTAKE. Right know all thats back in is the upper (loose) and lower arms and spindles. So my questions are.

1- Is there any specific way to set the caster, camber and toe in/out close enough by eye till I can get it to the shop for an alignment. I understand what the book explains, can you get it close by eye? Can I do it without the springs in?

2- I bought a new Idler arm bushing, and it dosent seem to be correct. If I slide the new bushing on the bracket, put the washer and nut on there is about a 1/2" play vertically and it seems that the inside diameter of the bushing compared to the outside diameter of the bracket seem to be slightly different, causing a slight wiggle. This is also the same the idler arm to bushing (wiggle). Is there supposed to be any vertical play or wiggle, I wouldnt think so, what do you think?

3- I'm installing a 1" sway bar, the brackets for it are much bigger and the holes dont line up, I know I have to modify the brackets and holes. Does all of the suspension have to be in and set prior to me doing so? I could use a few tips.

4- Are the coil spring seats supposed to be mounted with the tab to the inside or outside?

THANKS
SCOTT
65CONV, C-CODE, T10, 4BBL
ITS ALMOST DRIVEABLE, WOOO-HOOOO
 

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i tape measure should be about all you need to get the suspension straight enough to get it to the shop. Measure the front of the tires and the back of the tires. Even if you can only measure 4 inches off the ground in front and behind the center of the wheel.

I can't see how the sway bar would make any difference either way.

Don't know on the other things.
 

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GT350Clone showed me this nifty alignment tool, for about $45. All you need in addition is some instructions and plates/rollers to set the tires on. Here's the info:

Caster/Camber gauge was made by Auto Pro Racing Systems 404-998-8855. It works for rim sizes from 12" - 17".
 

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1. Yes, yes. Just drive slowly to the alignment shop.
2. No wobble or end play. Get an assembled idler/bushing from Autozone. McQuay-Norris part not bad for $28.
3. Keep the ends vertically aligned with LCA holes for strut link. I would add 1/16 steel plate into the frame bracket, weld in place (and at old holes) then redrill for new mounting brackets.
4. Inside.

And Midlife...there's something about your post that I like...
 
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Thanks for all the info, only problem with the idler arm situation is the bushing is new and its not the same as the old one. I ordered the one for power steering which my car has, but its different from the one I removed.

Thanks for the info

SCOTT
65CONV, C-CODE, T10, 4BBL
ITS ALMOST DRIVABLE, WOOO-HOOOO
 
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