Vintage Mustang Forums banner

21 - 32 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,263 Posts
No hate on KYB here, but they have a place and that is usually to compensate for soft worn suspension. They often tend to give a harsh non-compliant ride quality. There are many decent non gas shocks such as Monroe and others that won't break the budget if unable to step up to Bilstein, Koni, etc.
It's okay to hate KYB- they genuinely suck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
335 Posts
$1,200 is a decent budget to tackle what you want to do with your car. The first thing I would do would be to replace the shocks with something decent. Bilstein and Koni both make very good shocks for classic mustangs. Anything from the street valved up to the sport valved Bilsteins would be more than enough I believe for your vehicle. I personally have the sport valved Bilstein's but think you could also get away with the streets as well. Second would be a set of decent leaf springs like Eaton springs, Maier Racing and so on. Eaton will be cheaper and should keep you in your budget. Third would be roller spring perches. John at Opentracker Racing has roller spring perches that when combined with the Shelby drop, that you can basically do for free, will make for a much more comfortable ride. Coil springs would be number four on the list. Any decent or reputable manufacturer will do. Number five would be a decent crossmember, monte carlo bar, export brace and/or adjustable strut rods if you can afford them or have any room left in your budget. With the below items you're at $1,114.95. I'd spend the rest of the money on a decent crossmember and/or monte carlo bar if you don't already have them. If you do, a nice set of adjustable strut rods will definitely make for smoother accelerating/decelerating.

Set of Four Street Valved Bilstein Shocks from Opentracker $457
Eaton Leaf Springs - $369
Roller Spring Perches from Opentracker - $199
Performance Coil Spring from Opentracker $89.95
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,932 Posts
1" uca drop. 1" front sway bar with black urathane mounting bushings and end links. 620 lb front springs. roller spring seats. monte carlo bar. export brace. 150-160 rate rear springs. shocks. alignment 0 camber, +2 caster, 1/16" total toe in.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
10,932 Posts
1" uca drop. 1" front sway bar with black urathane mounting bushings and end links. 620 lb front springs. monte carlo bar. export brace. 150-160 rate rear springs. shocks. alignment 0 camber, +2 caster, 1/16" total toe in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
997 Posts
Not to be a contrarian, but … you have a 1965 w/ a 400 HP 351w. Seems to me you’d be concerned about handling and control before “ride.”
In any case, I agree with the other comments. First check all the parts, including steering, to check for worn out parts and replace those. This includes leaf spring bushings (which if need replacing, I’d use Del-a-Lum bushings). If you can up your budget you can get a full suspension package from Opentracker Racing or Street or Track. Call them for free and excellent advice. Otherwise, in a general order what others have recommended.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
And this is why I post the thread asking the questions. I don't want to just start throwing money at it without having any direction. I'm 37 and didn't grow up with this stuff so it's all new to me. Before this car, all of my vehicles were 1988 or newer. Seems there are a lot of different opinions and suggestions here on the suspension, while some are pretty consistent across the board. I think what I have to do is get a buddy in the car that knows suspension and dive into what it has, what it needs and what would be nice to upgrade and see where I'm at. I didn't build this car and I really never dove into the suspension. Pretty much always kept my attention to drivetrain. I'm kinda to the point of deciding how much money I want to put into a coupe. I've thought about selling it a few times and get a more desirable model and build it exactly how I want it but I have a hard time listing it for sale. My first antique and the motor is awesome and it runs really well.


Not to be a contrarian, but … you have a 1965 w/ a 400 HP 351w. Seems to me you’d be concerned about handling and control before “ride.”

Again, my biggest problem is the bottoming out on a rough road. That needs addressed for sure. I don't care for cornering fast so I've never looked to spend money on making that happen. I'm sure it could use those components as well. I'm always on public roads so I try not to drive too fast because that's when bad things happen. My philosophy - Burnouts off the beaten path. Make a little noise in lower gears. Cruise.

Oh, I forgot to mention I think this car may have originally been a V6, so there's that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
@PB65stang Below is a solid list. However it is missing @zray 's Competition Engine Crossmember.

Direct bolt in coil overs are not necessarily going to give you a better ride. The only real benefit to them is ride height adjustablity. For a softer ride I would look to:

Springs, front and back
Shocks
Sway bar (smaller for softer ride, but for a 351, I would go with a GT spec (13/16") at minimum, 1" for better handling)
Non-rubber spring perches
Higher profile tires
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,167 Posts
It's okay to hate KYB- they genuinely suck.
Man, there's a lot of hate for KYBs, I just switched to KYB's because the Monroe's I have can't keep up with the 620 springs and Shelby drop. The front is kind of floaty with the Monroes. It's definitely better with the KYBs now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,837 Posts
Man, there's a lot of hate for KYBs, I just switched to KYB's because the Monroe's I have can't keep up with the 620 springs and Shelby drop. The front is kind of floaty with the Monroes. It's definitely better with the KYBs now.
Same here. I had KYB GR-2s on my car for 15 years. It used to be on this site that the KYBs were fine and the shock of choice for street cars and the others were for track oriented cars. Have KYBs become worse over the years? Mine are made in Japan and when I took them off they were still working great.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,837 Posts
I have GT springs, urethane style spring perches that you can rotate by hand (much better than stock rubber) and a pair of KYB GR-2s that I took off my car when I put Aldan American coilovers on a few months ago. I'll sell you the whole thing for $100 plus shipping.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Grabber70Mach

·
Registered
Joined
·
997 Posts
Oh, I forgot to mention I think this car may have originally been a V6, so there's that.
Inline six (I6) actually, but we'll forgive you due to your young years (very few I6s can be found during the last 37 years, ha).
 
  • Like
Reactions: blueovalfan68

·
Registered
Joined
·
301 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Inline six (I6) actually, but we'll forgive you due to your young years (very few I6s can be found during the last 37 years, ha).
Haha yeah that makes sense. Guess I never thought about what the V means but now I get it. My 53 IH Pickup has an Inline 6.
 
  • Like
Reactions: CJM68GT390
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
Top