how does the Arning drop differ from the Shelby drop? what about ride?This is probably one of the most common posts on the VFM with tons of info. There was just the same question asked. Anyway outside of replacing worn out parts, the single most important thing you can do is lowering the upper control arm one inch and back one eight inch. This is called the Arning drop. It costs nothing more then the cost of a 17/32" drill bit. Followed up by a good alignment with at least 2° positive caster and 1/2° negative camber. Go for more caster if you can still keep that 1/2° negative camber.
Install a 1" front sway bar. Do what you can to stiffen up the unibody. 2 popular and easy items to install are the Monte Carlo bar between both shock towers and the export brace. The export brace is a 1 piece brace that replaces the 2 struts from the shock towers to firewall. The export brace was used on Mustangs going to Europe. Shocks, use the best shock you can buy. Konis are a tried and true shock that just work. Another popular shock is Bilsteins from Street or Track and Opentracker Racing.They have them custom valved to their specs and they work great.
Depending on your budget, 2 other items I would suggest. Replace the stock struts on the lower arm with adjustable struts that incorporate rod ends instead of the stock rubber bushings. These stabilize the lower control arms keeping them in place instead of moving all around and effecting suspension performance. They make a vast improvement in braking. I also like replacing the stock spring perches with ones that use roller bearings. These will far outlast stock ones and improve ride quality. The adjustable struts and be purchased from Street or Track and Opentracker Racing.
Both Street or Track and Opentracker Racing are regulars on this forum and both have excellent reputations for quality parts and customer service.
Since you already have a GT go with Eaton Improved Handling (GT) leaf springs in the back and Eaton GT springs in the front. That'll give you your original ride height and characteristics. Then if your steering is loose and you need new tie rod ends go with Moog tie rods and then replace the upper and lower control arms with Moog control arms. While you're at it perform the Shelby drop. Put in a 1" sway bar, some of the sway bar kits come with the stabilizer links but I recommend replacing that while you have everything apart, add an export brace and a Monte Carlo bar. Swap out your shocks with KYG Gas-adjust or Koni or Bilstein if you have the bucks. You'll be happy you did.Hello, can anyone give me advice on what suspension to go with in my 66gt? Looking for something not too agressive and doesn’t break the bank but something that will significantly change the boat ride quality in the stang. Thank!
They are one-in-the-same. It was Ford's engineer, Klaus Arning, that developed the repositioning of the upper control arm mounting point in order to change the front suspension camber curve. Shelby simply adopted it and, of course since Shelby's name is much more commonly associated with Mustangs than Arning's, it came to be known as either. For performance applications, the optimal "drop" is about 1-3/4" which, if used on a "street" car without any changes to reposition the upper ball joint angle, will result in a very quick detachment of the ball joint's ball stud from its base... "street" applications are typically limited to 1" which most ball joints can tolerate (but many ball joint BOOTS can't. LOL.). Wedge-shaped shims between the ball joint and control arm (so-called "Negative Wedge" kits) can accommodate changes in excess of 1". For '65-66 models, a rearward repositioning of 1/8", as well, helps with retaining positive caster angles.how does the Arning drop differ from the Shelby drop? what about ride?