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Discussion Starter #1
I'm purchasing a rebuilt 67 Dual M/C and wanted to replace my single reservoir master cylinder in my 66 with it. I'm going to have bend lines myself.

Anything I need to know before I get into this? Is there somewhere I can get a plan for bending the lines or is it something I can figure out without too much hassle?

Thanks.

Hope this works...
 

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There are alot more things to do and worry about. Your old master cylinder uses a hydraulic pressure switch for brake lights. To avoid having a pressure switch for each chamber of dual chamber master cylinders Ford starting in 1967 for Mustangs used a mechanical switch located on the brake pedal mechanism. For the two conversions I've done, I plumbed the old pressure switch into the front brake circuit.

I think you want to consider using a distribution and proportioning valve and it's warning light system for brake failure.

I believe all brake system tubing flares should be double flares. Do you have the tool for this?

Try doing a VMF search for old messages on this subject for fuller explanations.

Hope this helps.
Russ
 
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Discussion Starter #3
I have what I thought was a mechanical switch connected to the upper arm of my brake pedal. Also, can I use the proportioning valve from a 67 also, I'm guessing I can.

How much time do you think this will take? I have a line bending tool but I'm not sure about the double-flared end deal.

thanks for the info.
 

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Sorry, no answer but ? What happens if I just plumb dual MC (it is from Baer kit, a friend did not use it in his late model) into existing brake lines without doing anything else. I have 65 with disc brakes and single reservoir disc brake MC. It has a proportioning valve in the rear brake line. Would this be enough or is it mandatory to install a adjustable prop.valve?

Door handle first
 

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The second time around it was much faster, mostly reduced thinking, reading, checking other cars, and thinking time.

Is this a manual brake master cylinder? Have you searched prior VMF messages for this conversion?

Russ
 
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Discussion Starter #6
I am assuming you have drum brakes.

You should get a distribution block from a dual system drum brake car, 67 or 68 works well. Don't use a proportioning valve or a combination valve from a disk brake car. With the dual system distribution block, you will get a differential pressure valve that supplies a ground electrical connection if there is a failure in either system, front or rear. I used a differential pressure valve so I could wire up a brake defect warning light and alarm. If you don't want the switch, you could skip the differential pressure valve and plumb the front two lines through a tee to the rear MC port and the rear line directly to the front MC port. Some people have used the original distribution block for the front lines with a plug for the former rear line hole. They then plumb the rear line to the front port on the mc.

I used a a MC from a 67 Mustang. DO NOT USE A REBUILT MC. One, they will leak in a short time. Two, they come with the 1/2 " shorter 67 pushrod already inserted, so you will have to break an internal clip by pulling on the rod. You need to use the original pushrod from your 65-66. Buy a new MC and the pushrod is supplied, but not inserted, so you just toss it. By the way, the new Bendix MC was $58 at Advance Auto and $90 at Trax Auto. Same part number; shop around.

The rear line on a 65 Mustang ends at the distribution block with a 3/16 flare fitting. The distribution block on a 67 used a 5/16. Check ahead of time so you don't have to wait a day to get an adapter.

Don't believe the parts guy when he tells you they don't make such an adapter when what he really means is he doesn't stock one.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Yes, it is a manual MC. Searching VMF was what gave me the idea about using a 67 MC. I'm not very knowledgeable about proportioning valves and such but was hoping my manual and a friend who owns the brake line bender will be able to get me through that part.
 
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