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I bought a 1966 convertible, 6 cylinder that has been parked for about 20 years. Getting ready to replace the brakes, brake hoses, brake lines, shocks and the front suspension, and have already replaced the fuel lines and tank.

If I replace the sway bar during all of this, what size is the sway bar, not sure what to buy as there are several options out there.

What size is it from the factory?
 

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I don't know the size of your factory sway bar, but I can tell you the factory sway bars were quite puny on all but a tiny few Mustangs (Boss, Shelby, Mach 1). I think a 1" would be great, but I would suggest shooting an email to Shaun at Street or Track and asking him. I bought most of my suspension components from him. He is very knowledgeable and very helpfu.

Be very careful when purchasing a sway bar. Many of the aftermarket sway bars don't fit well or don't fit at all.
 

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Along with Shaun at Street or Track, another go-to team are John & Shari at OpenTracker Racing. Both groups are extremely helpful and know their stuff.


 

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Sleeton, I have cars with 200, 250, 289, 302, and 390. I have found that Moog 8534 coils work great for all. With the 6 cylinder cars you may want to cut 1/4 coil. I have 1" sway bar, export brace on all. All get the drop, new suspension, and steering. I do my own alignments. I like to go with 4.5 reverse eye in rear, but have cars with mid eye, and standard eye. The standard eye 4.5 leafs came on a car I just bought recently. The PO put them on and they are new, so they will probably get lowering blocks. All cars can corner well, even the 390, but it is the only one that is power steering. Build it like a V8. Also go with camber plates! I do use the roller perches on most, but have one with standard perches. I do not have any roller idlers, and I do not have adjustable struts, but maybe someday....
 

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As I recall the factory standard sway bar was 11/16" and the GT/Competition Suspension was 15/16".
 

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True, but I like a little more performance feel than factory parts give, especially on the 6 cylinder cars. The 6 cylinder front sway is puny, spring rate is too springy. They are very tall, thin coil springs w/ extra coils. I like to be able to handle great, stop straight and go when you push the pedal. The sixes can be decent performers when built up just a little bit.
 

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The key to making the six perform is to keep the weight down and do not add anything unnecessary. A larger sway bar is not a significant weight increase. Heavier wheels and tires, PS, AC, heavy batteries, bigger radiators all add up. Also keeping the weight off the front end makes manual steering much easier to deal with.
 

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Well the 4 lug set up that is on many 6 cylinder cars is lighter, but I swap it out to all V8 stuff and build it like a V8. These V8 parts are heavier, but no issue getting the little sixes to move it down the road quickly. I’ll add a 5 lug 8 inch, 5 lug front discs, 4.5 leafs, big block coils, V8 driveshaft, export brace, 1” sway. I have a WC 5 speed in one, and a hot C4w/ shift kit and servo behind the 250. I have yet to drive it, but I’m getting close. The PO rebuilt front suspension and steering, but did not do the drop. I’m gonna go back in and drill it, and maybe cut the coils. It’s riding to high-3 or more inches between tires and fender all around. Too tall!
Also the 69 is the first one I’ve bought that was already 5 lug from the factory. I had to convert 2 of my 68s from 4 to 5 lug.
 

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I just replaced the sway bar bushings on mine. I already did the Shelby/arning drop and went to roller bearing spring perches on the upper control arm.
 

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For a 6-cylinder I'd stick with a smaller front sway bar. Why? IMHO using a larger bar and limiting front body roll is going to cause a significant understeer until the rear end starts to transfer weight from the inside to the outside causing a snap oversteer. If you're not making significant changes to the suspension in spring rates, geometry, tire tread width, sidewall height, weight distribution, etc., I think I'd leave well enough alonge.
 

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From the Mustang resto Guide Book, here's only stock chart I found on the "Stabilizer Bar". Sway bar. For 67 looks like a 6cyl 200 got same 3/4 sway bar as 289
 

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Been running this 6 cylinder car with this set up for 5 years. Sway bar may not be 1 inch, could be 7/8s, didn’t measure. We started w new 6 cylinder coils. With the drop, it was in the weeds- way too low. Upgraded to new Small block coils. Better height, but could bottom out front suspension too easily. Eventually we went to moog 8534 big block springs. Great! It corners flat, no oversteer or any issues at all, but a little tall, 2 inch gap from top of tire to fender. Yes, there are upgraded tires, it has the drop and roller perches, so it has some mods. I like how it rides, steers and stops. In my experience this set up works great. No oversteer issues, and car runs with the V8 when we go on our cruises. it keeps up in speed to about 80, and corners with all of them on our twisty back country roads here in the hill country.
 
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What is the benefit to the roller bearing spring perches on the upper control arms?
The rubber bushing in the factory spring perch tends to cause binding. It also deteriorates very quickly. As I understand it, Ford initially used a bronze bushing in the Falcon version of the suspension. That worked well, but was later replaced with the rubber bushing to cut costs.

I support the opinion that all non-concours Mustangs should have roller spring perches and the Shelby/Arning drop. These two minor mods make a significant improvement in the suspension.
 
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