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Discussion Starter #1
So i decided it would be a good idea to cut a coil out of my new scott drake springs. I think i cut too much... the spring basically falls out of the car now, absolutely no need for a coil spring compressor. While my car was on the lift the springs just bounced around, wasn't until i attached the shocks to the towers that they stayed in place.

I have a dusty but new 1" big block sway bar i bought years ago that i went to put on my car. First off the frame brackets i had were horrible and needed grinding to make them fit the fame holes, even then the bolts were so tight no washers could be used. next the bar seems to be no where near the control arms. with the end links installed they lean forward towards the core support at a horrible angle. also my lower control arms are parallel while sitting on the ground. the top of a 225/40/18 sits just at the wheel arch.

so i scrap my sway bar and pull the bar off my dads 67, its also a big block bar and i notice his bar has energy mounts (nice) and his bar is bent way differently at the end link mounts than mine. see pics







my bars ends were bent down while my dads is pretty level.

needless to say, i think my car is just too low. I am going to toss in some global west spring risers and see if i can salvage my control arms to mount my sway bar. I have 2" and 2.5" end link spacers. what length do you all run? i have 1/2 tubing i can cut some custom ones out of if needed.
 

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I don't think trying to engineer your suspension to fit a sway bar is as good an idea as just finding the correct sway bar. I've heard of lower coil springs coming out with hand effort when the entire suspension is completely unloaded on a lift on a car with the Arning Drop, but I certainly don't think the shocks should have to act as a limiter, only as a damper. They could easily break, and if the suspension unloaded far enough and a coil spring came out, it's going to probably destroy the shock and maybe your fender.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My springs were just dangling sitting in the spring perch pocket. With the car on the lift and the suspension fully unloaded the springs would pop out of the top coil isolator, also my shocks were not attached to the top of the towers. When i placed the car on its wheels the springs would pop back into the upper isolators, the shocks would center themselves, and the suspension would level out. Once i bolted the shocks to the tower caps the springs stopped popping out of the pockets and stay firmly attached to the perches.

Im going to be adding some roller perches. along with the coil spring risers.

 

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There are no problems with "short" springs as long as the springs are kept in place when the shocks are mounted. I have always seen people recommend cutting the springs in several small steps, because it will usually change the hight more than you think.
But I never understood the need of changing the lenght of the swaybar end links. Because the suspension still have the same travel, no matter what the ride hight is and if you change the length of the end links, you move the area that swaybay use to move inside. If you do it wrong, then the swaybar may hit something before the suspension are at max travel.
 

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When I changed my sway bar to a 1" sway bar I did it with the wheels on the ground. I turned each of the front wheels to get at the links, removed them first then unbolted the bracket in the front of the sway bar from the frame in the front. Installing them I tried doing it in reverse but had challenges with getting the links lined up. I then did the links first then the frame brackets. Much easier. I don't remember if I ever jacked up the car, it was 15 years ago that I upgraded my sway bar. Is your sway bar correct for your model year?
 

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FWIW, my “620” lowering springs, that are uncut, can be removed easily once the shock is unbolted and the car is jacked up in the air. The shock is essentially your droop travel limiter, and that’s normal for our cars. If you start jumping your Mustang on a regular basis then an alternative droop limiter may be required (and probably a million other mods :oops:😅).

But I never understood the need of changing the lenght of the swaybar end links. Because the suspension still have the same travel, no matter what the ride hight is and if you change the length of the end links, you move the area that swaybay use to move inside. If you do it wrong, then the swaybar may hit something before the suspension are at max travel.
 

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Oops... Hit post before I addressed Westmus’ quote above...

As you lower the car you pull the wheel and suspension components up. The further up you go the more likely your sway bar will collide with the frame rail. The fix is to shorten the end link so that the bar can rotate back down and allow enough clearance between it and the frame rail.
 

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As you lower the car you pull the wheel and suspension components up. The further up you go the more likely your sway bar will collide with the frame rail. The fix is to shorten the end link so that the bar can rotate back down and allow enough clearance between it and the frame rail.
Static ride height still dosen't matter. The suspension (including the swaybar) keep having the stock upper and lower stop of it's travel. If the sway bar hits something, then the upper or lower stop of the suspension travel have been moved, or the swaybar have a different basic design than the stock Ford. Upper stop on a Mustang are the UCA hitting the rubber bump stop. Lower is full length of the shock. These two have no relation to the cars static ride height or which springs that has been mounted on the car.
 

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So i decided it would be a good idea to cut a coil out of my new scott drake springs. I think i cut too much... the spring basically falls out of the car now, absolutely no need for a coil spring compressor. While my car was on the lift the springs just bounced around, wasn't until i attached the shocks to the towers that they stayed in place.

I have a dusty but new 1" big block sway bar i bought years ago that i went to put on my car. First off the frame brackets i had were horrible and needed grinding to make them fit the fame holes, even then the bolts were so tight no washers could be used. next the bar seems to be no where near the control arms. with the end links installed they lean forward towards the core support at a horrible angle. also my lower control arms are parallel while sitting on the ground. the top of a 225/40/18 sits just at the wheel arch.

so i scrap my sway bar and pull the bar off my dads 67, its also a big block bar and i notice his bar has energy mounts (nice) and his bar is bent way differently at the end link mounts than mine. see pics







my bars ends were bent down while my dads is pretty level.

needless to say, i think my car is just too low. I am going to toss in some global west spring risers and see if i can salvage my control arms to mount my sway bar. I have 2" and 2.5" end link spacers. what length do you all run? i have 1/2 tubing i can cut some custom ones out of if needed.
If a line drawn from the center of the LCA bolt head to the top of the LCA balljoint boot isn't pretty much parallel to the ground,
you're too low.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Hi DCx - I have a 68 coupe w/ 289. I cut half a coil off my factory original springs, I have done the Shelby-Arning 1” drop, and have a 1” sway bar. I am running on 235/60R14 tires. My sway bar end link spacer is 1.75”. My LCA is 1” lower at the wheel than at the frame. It looks like the ends of my sway bar are closer to your Dad’s angulation.

Mike
 

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Static ride height still dosen't matter. The suspension (including the swaybar) keep having the stock upper and lower stop of it's travel. If the sway bar hits something, then the upper or lower stop of the suspension travel have been moved, or the swaybar have a different basic design than the stock Ford. Upper stop on a Mustang are the UCA hitting the rubber bump stop. Lower is full length of the shock. These two have no relation to the cars static ride height or which springs that has been mounted on the car.
So I had to go and look at my Mustang to see what the bump stop clearance was relative to the sway bar to frame clearance. Granted the swap bar end will only travel about half the distance the tire does, I can still see the sway bar wanting to touch the frame rail before the A arm hits the bump stop (if the links were too long). Now I don’t know what the stock link height is and don’t have any on hand, so maybe the OEM link height was fine. I know the aftermarket ones vary in length quite a bit, so maybe that’s the root of the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks for the pictures. I wont be able to get to the car until wednesday. I will put it on the ground and post pics of the suspension.

I ordered some roller perches so i may get some new springs when i have it all apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I fixed my issue. I bought some energy suspension frame mounts. Best mounts ive seen, I have 2 additional sets and each them are almost too narrow for the frame mounts.

Anyway, i drove to Global West's headquarters today and picked up a new 1" sway bar. It has a completely different shape than the two big block bars i have at home and also it appears to be a tad bit longer at the end link mounts. It dropped right into my car. I am using 2" spacers on my end links, they arent tight in the photo but i have lots of space for the bar to rotate if needed.





as you can see my cut springs lower my car quite a bit. I have 1/2" poly spacers now, also from Global West. Gonna toss them in and see if I can get a fingers gap above the tire to match the rear better.

BTW, the fender isnt even bolted on. its just sitting on the car.
 
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