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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Shaun, I am looking for some advice on how to handle long sweeping turns like the Oaktree turn at VIR, turn 12 at Carolina motorsport park and turn 5 at Robling Road, Savannah. I have your 3 link set up out back with track valved Bilstein shocks all round. 3 degrese positive caster and negative 1.75 degrese camber. I usually run Toyo tires 255/50/16 either RA1's or R888's. My car, 65 FB just does not seem to handle those turns as well as it should. I have had some success with aggressively turning in making the turn and throttle steering through the turn, unwinding the wheel and loosening the turn as I go. This technique did not work well at Savannah. I would appreciate any input from your experience with these cars..

thanks, David
 

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1966 coupe and 1970 sportsroof
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I have no clue about VIR or that that turn but I'd think more positive caster couldn't hurt
Also I'd like to know and see how you stuffed 255/50/16 on a 65
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Shaun, it just does not seem to stick. If I had to name one thing I would say oversteer, but I definitely don't want to create an understeer condition...


As far as fitting 255's on the 65 Mustang, I moved the front wheel arch up and opened it up. Out back I extended the inner fender out 3" and fabricated a flair to cover it. 275/45/16 up front is as large as I have run, out back I could, if I could find them, fit a 315 or possibly a 335 back there.
 

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couldn't see the flairs or modded wheels arches in your avatar thumbnail,Any chance you could post a bigger pic ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did not check. I will, just toe plates work OK? I welded the mounts on the leaf spring pads per instructions so that should have kept a lot of heat away from the axle tube. What specs, toe and camber would you suggest as OK?
 

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I did not check. I will, just toe plates work OK? I welded the mounts on the leaf spring pads per instructions so that should have kept a lot of heat away from the axle tube. What specs, toe and camber would you suggest as OK?
The Watts bracket gets welded straight to the tube. Could also of been bent before. Worth a check. If you have any camber and toe in it -1 degree camber and 1/8" toe in works. You DO NOT want positive camber or toe out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK, just did some google searches, and now looks like I need to learn how to "square up my car" basically a 4 wheel alignment with the addition of making sure the wheels are parallel to the drive train. Just read a procedure from Longacre and we'll see. thanks
 

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Why would the wheels need to be parallel to the drivetrain?
As long as the wheels are all in line with each other, shouldn't that be good enough?

Not saying you really want your engine/transmission at a heavy angle to the left or right, but if it were pointed 1 degree offset compared to the wheels, why should it matter?
 

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FWIW, mine warped a bit when I installed my 4-link. So took it to my alignment guy and sure enough I had a touch of toe out in the rear. Which pretty much had to have come from welding the brackets on the rear. You live you learn, I thought I had been so careful too.

Anyways, I'm lucky enough to live within driving distance to these guys. Cooks Machine Works Had it straightened out in no time, they also took some twist out of my axles for me.

For me it was most evident on early exit. As I would get back on throttle it had what almost felt like a dead spot in the grip. Where the butt wanted to come around on ya. Wasn't super abrupt or anything, and for a while I just drove around it and would just be a bit more gentle on the throttle coming out of a corner.

(Also FWIW this is kinda what those guys are known for, so when they told me that a lot of even completely stock housings have a bit in or out I believed it.)

I also swapped over to 200 tread wear tires around the same time. So I'm sure that skewed my results a bit. But, with that said, the dead spot is gone. And I can basically mash it coming out now. Which was well worth the investment. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Shaun, you nailed it, 3/8 inch toe out and 1/4 degree positive camber on the passenger side. I am going to try and straighten it out before CMP on 5/19.. Thanks all!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
After a long afternoon with a acetalens SP?? torch, I am now at 1/8 toe in and -1/4 camber.. I can't seem to get more -camber. I am painting it up and installing tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
OK want to give a summary so far. First the rear axle, thanks to a borrowed torch rig, I was able to go from 3/8 toe out, zero camber on one side and slight positive on the other to 1/8 toe in and 3/4 degree - camber on left and 1/2- camber on rt. Next I moved on to squaring the rear to the front. I cut a couple of 10" pieces of super strut steel I had in the shop, bolted them to the front attachment bolts to the lower control arms got them straight and used them as attachment points to measure back to the rear axle. On the rear axle I tied strings with weights attached and looped them around the back side of the axle spaced exactly the same distance apart as the super strut steel up front. To help be more exact I switched to metric. The first measurements were 282.25 drivers side and 283,5 passenger. The tire spacing in the wheel opening was good so I split the difference and set both sides at 283CM then I checked corner to corner for square. I found the square to be 1/4 CM out, not enough for me to mess with the watts link ends. Took the car for a test drive and I really think I could feel a difference. Going to the track 6/19 I should be able to get a better idea of how things work out then.. It was a fun project, learned to use a heating torch, straighten an axle tube and square a rear end, not bad for zero dollars spent! Thanks for all the input.
 
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