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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello all!

I hope you are all in good health and staying safe during these uncertain times.

I've got some questions about my Borg Warner T-10 four-speed transmission. It is currently in the car with the shift mechanism installed, but without the shifter attached. My questions are as follows:

1. Do I need to remove the shifting mechanism to replace the U-shaped bracket and pin that the shifter bolts to or can I do it in the car?

2. When I go to install the shifter itself, the bolt closest to the seat does not tighten down all the way-- there is still a gap between the shifter and the bracket, but the bolt feels tight and I don't wanna crank on it for fear of damaging something. Any idea why this might be? Can I just use another shorter bolt, or is the special threadless-at-the-top bolt important? Should/can I add washers under the existing bolt?

3. The farthest I've gotten when installing the shifter is completely installed except for the bolt that won't tighten down all the way (the springs, trunnions, everything included in the 4 speed shifter rebuild kit from NPD). The detent is still on the 3rd/4th gear side-- to get to first, I have to go left and up. Is that the way it is supposed to be? I feel like the detent should have the default shifter position in the 1st/2nd gear lineup?If that's the way it's supposed to be, why is my detent wrong? I've installed all the parts for a shifter rebuild.

4. Lastly, please confirm that the gear oil I ordered for the T-10 won't make it blow up :) Seems like everybody has a different recommendation. Link to the oil I purchased HERE (Red Line MT-90 75W-90 GL-4 Manual Transmission and Transaxle Lubricant). I ordered two quarts.


I'm looking forward to hearing from you all! Thanks in advance, all input is appreciated.

Cheers, Alex
 

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Do you have the correct shifter shoulder bolts and hardened washers under the heads?
The shifter lever in neutral will rest inline with 3-4 gears and moved to the left to select 1-2 and reverse.
GL-4 is what you want.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Do you have the correct shifter shoulder bolts and hardened washers under the heads?
In neutral the shifter lever should be centered so that you have to move left or right to select a gear.
GL-4 is what you want.
I bought the NPD rebuild kit, which came with two shoulder bolts, two washers, two rubber grommets for the bolts to go through, the springs, and the trunnions. I installed per the shop manual. Thanks confirming on the gear oil!

Also, by moving left and right, I assume to the left would be reverse? Is that what you mean?

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I was incorrect about shifter position in neutral and amended my previous post. With the correct shoulder bolts and hardened washers there is a gap between the shifter handle and u-shaped bracket, the rubber bushings fill in the gap to keep from rattling.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I was incorrect about shifter position in neutral and amended my previous post. With the correct shoulder bolts and hardened washers there is a gap between the shifter handle and u-shaped bracket, the rubber bushings fill in the gap to keep from rattling.
So the gap is normal? That would make me feel a lot better! Thanks again for the input, I really appreciate it.


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Discussion Starter #8
Why do you want to remove it?
From what I remember, I don't think you could remove the pin and reinstall it mounted on the transmission.
I want to remove it simply because I have a new one sitting in my parts box that cost me $40 :cautious: Otherwise, I'm not sure it needs replacing. If it's a pain to do, I will probably not worry about it...
 

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I attempted to remove it while rebuilding my shifter and aborted. I was having to hit the pin harder than I was comfortable with and it was just for clean up anyway. Unless it's broken, I don't think I'd mess with it.
 
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