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T-5 to 5 bolt 289

531 Views 26 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  wilit
Alright folks, need to get some advice. Forgive me if this doesn’t make sense but I’m tired.

I finally gathered all the parts to convert my 65 coupe with a 289 from a C4 to a T-5 with a 3:50 gear and Holman Moody hi-po cam (hydraulic lifters). I also bought the Modern Driveline cable setup. I pulled the engine and transmission only to discover I have a 5 bolt 289.

From what I understand, my only option is to look for a 5 bolt 3 or 4 speed bell housing and adapter plate to use said bell housing with the T-5 and then use a Z-bar instead of the cable clutch. I believe someone makes an adapter bell housing but it’s close to $900 which isn’t an option.

Am I missing anything?
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Woodchuck's recommendation of doing the T5 fulcrum relocation is probably the cheapest, but you'll need to drill and tap the cast iron bellhousing. Not really difficult.

Your other option is a Quicktime Bellhousing.
 

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Woodchuck's recommendation of doing the T5 fulcrum relocation is probably the cheapest, but you'll need to drill and tap the cast iron bellhousing. Not really difficult.

Your other option is a Quicktime Bellhousing.
For $1000 you might as well find a 6 bolt engine.
 

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Alright folks, need to get some advice. Forgive me if this doesn’t make sense but I’m tired.

I finally gathered all the parts to convert my 65 coupe with a 289 from a C4 to a T-5 with a 3:50 gear and Holman Moody hi-po cam (hydraulic lifters). I also bought the Modern Driveline cable setup. I pulled the engine and transmission only to discover I have a 5 bolt 289.

From what I understand, my only option is to look for a 5 bolt 3 or 4 speed bell housing and adapter plate to use said bell housing with the T-5 and then use a Z-bar instead of the cable clutch. I believe someone makes an adapter bell housing but it’s close to $900 which isn’t an option.

Am I missing anything?
Let me know if you want to buy a lightly used adapter plate. When I did my conversion I went with the adapter plate but might swap it for a bell housing at some point.
 

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Woodchuck's recommendation of doing the T5 fulcrum relocation is probably the cheapest, but you'll need to drill and tap the cast iron bellhousing. Not really difficult.

Your other option is a Quicktime Bellhousing.
Why? MDL makes a 5-bolt (narrow pattern) bellhousing adapter plate....
 

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Are you talking about the plate that goes between the bellhousing and transmission or do they make a plate that goes between the block and the bellhousing?
Not to Steal this question of Bart, I did the T5 to 5 bolt. I too, needed, a 5 bolt manual bell, the pedal box etc. I stuck with the “Z” bar clutch actuating system for simplicity. I purchased n adapter plate to mate the transmission to the bell. I recall the adapter being between 150-200. But this in in 2010.
 

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Are you talking about the plate that goes between the bellhousing and transmission or do they make a plate that goes between the block and the bellhousing?
MDL has adapter plates for between the bellhousing and transmission for both the narrow pattern (5-bolt bell) and wide pattern (6-bolt bell).
 

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MDL has adapter plates for between the bellhousing and transmission for both the narrow pattern (5-bolt bell) and wide pattern (6-bolt bell).
K. I'm kinda confused. I agreed with you on my first post of using an early bell with the relocated fulcrum so OP could use the cable kit he already has. That would be the easiest, assuming he's capable of relocating the fulcrum.

The way I see it, OP has 3 options.
1. Early bell ($250-$300) + relocated fulcrum ($40) + MDL plate ($240) = $530
2. Early bell ($250-$300) + Z bar ($200) + 60's style clutch fork & TO bearing ($80) + MDL plate ($240) = $770
3. Quicktime bellhousing ($900)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I’ve located a couple of bell housings for about $75 so that isn’t a problem. And I can get the adapter plate to allow the early 5 bolt bell housing to mount to the T5. I can also create a bracket to accept the cable at the bell housing like that of the T5 bell housing. What I’m trying to work out is the mounting of the ball fulcrum for the pull type clutch fork.

Is the bell housing thick enough to drill and tap to accept the ball pivot? I see kits to allow use of a Z bar to the newer style T5 bell housing, but none for fitting the ball pivot to an early bell housing. I assume I could add some material to the bell housing where it’s drilled and tapped but unsure if this is needed.

My final dilemma is last year I ordered my clutch kit from Summit and added ti my parts stash and did not open. The photo on the sit shows a diaphragm style clutch, but I received a long style three finger clutch. I looked at the page again and I missed that the text says “long” clutch. Will this still work with the pull style clutch fork?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
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So there it is! California Pony Cars adapter plate fits great. Had to make the modifications recommended in the instructions. Now I need to add an adjustable pivot (the hole will go through the adapter as well so there will be plenty of strength to cut threads) and widen the hole for the clutch fork.

Also I have to create a bracket for the clutch cable on the side of the bellhousing. Anyone have any suggestions on this part?
 

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View attachment 878464 So there it is! California Pony Cars adapter plate fits great. Had to make the modifications recommended in the instructions. Now I need to add an adjustable pivot (the hole will go through the adapter as well so there will be plenty of strength to cut threads) and widen the hole for the clutch fork.

Also I have to create a bracket for the clutch cable on the side of the bellhousing. Anyone have any suggestions on this part?
If I recall, (15 years ago) that's the same vendor, whose adapter I used. Still in service using 5 bolt bell.
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Did you use a Z-bar or cable setup? If cable, how did you make the cable bracket on the side to emulate the T5?
Ok, I looked at the cable system and didn't feel its use was in keeping with the "classic' look I was seeking. Also, was not impressed with the reports of how they tend to get burned with routing in and around the header.The hydraulic systems readily available now were not that well known then. Definitely, did not like the Mcloid system that's on the nose/shank of the input shaft. Therefore, I went with a heavy duty and rollerized version of the "Z" bar and have never regretted it.
 
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