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1968 Mustang GT
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409 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Guys,

I need help. I can't make heads or tails of all the possible options and configurations. There are countless posts and seems like the info is lost in the numbers.

I have a 68 fastback. 1987 roller 302 with Trick Flow heads and bunch of other goodies. I had it built and dyno'd at 410 HP.
I have stock power steering.
I have T5 World class from a 1994 GT - complete with bell housing.
I have the clutch & brake pedal assembly done (Manual brake setup) but needs to be installed.
I have the correct fly wheel and scatter shield.

I do not know which clutch system I should / need to go with. Hydraulic / Cable / or Z-bar. I know that each system has it's pros and cons and some work better or worse with some headers.

I am looking for headers (either short or long) I just want best performance for my hard earned dollar and a set that will work with the T5 conversion.

I'm live in Canada, so **** ain't cheap. ;-)

I'm not looking to reinvent the wheel. I've talked to modern drive line and they recommend the hydraulic clutch depending on which headers I go, but mostly because they say the cable will not work with my bell housing.

Can anyone shed some light on my setup and which avenue I should go down?
 

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A lot of the aftermarket headers won't work with aftermarket cylinder heads. I have a set of dart iron heads on my 302 and couldn't find an off the shelf header that would work (and I really tried to find them).

I have a 302 with a T5 (with late model bellhousing), hydraulic clutch and a TCI power steering rack.

I got a set of headers from Ford Powertrain (FPA) and they fit perfect. Call and tell him what you've got and he makes them to fit.

They're around $1,000 with shipping and ceramic coating....but they fit perfect right out of the box.

 

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You'll go crosseyed searching this topic lol. I found the headers I wanted and built the original Z-Bar to fit them, couple of quick welds and it was done. I think I'll go hydraulic next time because it's the cool thing now.
 

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I put in a clutch cable 15 years ago and I have never melted it. Best solution? Probably not, but it works.

I have used it with two different sets of Hedman long tube headers. The current set is the ceramic coated Elite version on AFR heads. I love them. Whichever header you get, go ceramic coated. It drastically reduces under hood temps.
 

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65 Fastback 289 T5
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Im getting an opentracker zbar when I tackle my t5 swap in the next couple months because I'm too scarred from chasing down other leaks to want to add yet more fluid to the mix but running hipo manifolds lessens the concerns of fitment issues. Theres a thread around here from a couple months ago from a guy who got some Doug Thorley long tubes that worked with a zbar he seemed really high on but I thought they were pretty pricey at ~$800.
 

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1968 Mustang GT
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409 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Also, I have power steering. Wasn't sure if that was important... but thinking it is now.
 

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1968 Mustang GT
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What about sizes, etc.... 1-5/8 vs 1-3/4" and the collectors - 2-1/2" vs 3".

If I go short tube, am I saving myself a ton of headaches or does it make any difference. Also, am I leaving horsepower on the table. It's going to be fun weekend driver, no racing or drag.
 

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1968 Mustang GT
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I just found this article which makes me think that shorties are the way to go.

 

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A lot of the aftermarket headers won't work with aftermarket cylinder heads. I have a set of dart iron heads on my 302 and couldn't find an off the shelf header that would work (and I really tried to find them).

I have a 302 with a T5 (with late model bellhousing), hydraulic clutch and a TCI power steering rack.

I got a set of headers from Ford Powertrain (FPA) and they fit perfect. Call and tell him what you've got and he makes them to fit.

They're around $1,000 with shipping and ceramic coating....but they fit perfect right out of the box.

+1 for FPA headers. Worth the expense.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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+1 for FPA headers. Worth the expense.
+2 for the FPA headers. Running at $1200 with the ceramic coating this summer when I bought mine. First set of headers that I don't despise and don't hit on the trailer when I load the car.
 

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I purchased a pair of Patriot Clippster headers for my '67. They are a shorty design, mount fine to my aluminum Edelbrock heads, clear the Z-bar, and don't have any interference with my T-5 transmission ('67 bellhousing). The fit around the z-bar is really tight with only 1/4" clearance but it works. I purchased them for a little under $300 and after 9 years have had no issues with the finish.

This is an older picture and isn't great but will give you an idea of the fit.

739121
 

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1968 Mustang GT
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah, I'm thinking to reduce stress of fitting in long tubes and save some money, I may go shorties. From the info I've found, a properly made set of short headers will perform great for a street performance motor.
 

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I tend to like the shorty headers as opposed to the long tubes. They're more compact, don't typically have the ground clearance issues that some long tubes can have and are generally cheaper as they don't have as much material to them. And on a street car there's probably not going to be a ton of performance loss using shorties as opposed to long tubes. Here's a set from JBA that say they fit a 68 with a 302, they're ceramic coated and only $530. To me that's a lot better than spending $1,000-1,200 on something you'll likely not notice much of a difference in terms of performance with.

 

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65 Fastback, 5.0 supercharged, EFI, coil over strut front suspension,4 link rear
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The JBA 1650S shorty headers fit great on my 65 Mustang with T5 and cable clutch, I like that they have the OEM ball type connection flange.. less chance of nuisance leaks, they will be my first choice if I start another vintage Mustang project.

My opinion is that you are going to be very limited as to which clutch actuating mechanism, headers, and steering type because of the SN-95 bell housing and T5

I have completed two T5 swaps, both on 65's, my previous car had factory manual steering and my current 65 has rack & pinion steering, both with cable actuated clutches and 87-93 Foxbody components, Although they were not 68 Mustangs the obstacles should be more less the same.
 

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1968 Mustang GT
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks. Do short vs long tube headers alter the overall exhaust sound?
 

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Maybe a little bit, but I’m thinking an X vs H pipe and your exhaust size are going to effect exhaust sound more than the header size. That and a more radical camshaft vs stock from the factory.
 

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Guys,

I need help. I can't make heads or tails of all the possible options and configurations. There are countless posts and seems like the info is lost in the numbers.

I have a 68 fastback. 1987 roller 302 with Trick Flow heads and bunch of other goodies. I had it built and dyno'd at 410 HP.
I have stock power steering.
I have T5 World class from a 1994 GT - complete with bell housing.
I have the clutch & brake pedal assembly done (Manual brake setup) but needs to be installed.
I have the correct fly wheel and scatter shield.

I do not know which clutch system I should / need to go with. Hydraulic / Cable / or Z-bar. I know that each system has it's pros and cons and some work better or worse with some headers.

I am looking for headers (either short or long) I just want best performance for my hard earned dollar and a set that will work with the T5 conversion.

I'm live in Canada, so **** ain't cheap. ;-)

I'm not looking to reinvent the wheel. I've talked to modern drive line and they recommend the hydraulic clutch depending on which headers I go, but mostly because they say the cable will not work with my bell housing.

Can anyone shed some light on my setup and which avenue I should go down?
I've used both cable and hyd. and prefer the hyd. Much easier to deal with long tubes--at least in my application. Not sure where yo are but I know some guys in Canada will have stuff shipped to a UPS store in the States and just drive over to pick it up--if you are close enough to the border, it might be an option to ave some $$
 

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1968 Mustang GT
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I've used both cable and hyd. and prefer the hyd. Much easier to deal with long tubes--at least in my application. Not sure where yo are but I know some guys in Canada will have stuff shipped to a UPS store in the States and just drive over to pick it up--if you are close enough to the border, it might be an option to ave some $$
Thanks for the info. I'm 2.5 hrs north of the buffalo boarder. It might be worth it. I have to have a chat with Modern Driveline to see what I can source on my end, and what I need from them. This 5 speed setup is way out my league.

If I go with shorties, I have options. HOWEVER, Modern Driveline said that because of my 7 o'lock opening in the 94 belhousing, I am stuck to hydraulic clutch only. So with that info, I can really look at long tube headers again - IF I have the budget for them.
 

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Thanks for the info. I'm 2.5 hrs north of the buffalo boarder. It might be worth it. I have to have a chat with Modern Driveline to see what I can source on my end, and what I need from them. This 5 speed setup is way out my league.

If I go with shorties, I have options. HOWEVER, Modern Driveline said that because of my 7 o'lock opening in the 94 belhousing, I am stuck to hydraulic clutch only. So with that info, I can really look at long tube headers again - IF I have the budget for them.
The hyd is super easy to install and bleed and of course, way easier to deal with LT's. I used a set o Patriot LT's and the fit was great. Thinking of pulling them and getting them ceramic coated. I think the can come coated and if I knew how good the fit was, I would of gone that route
 
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