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1969 Mach 1 351 Black Jade
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135 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
On my T5 swap should I stay original and go hard linkage or is the hydraulic kit worth the 350 dollar difference? I currently have no parts of the swap as the car was an FMX model.

I'm buying parts I need next month.

1969 351W
 

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I had a '67 with a factory clutch and z-bar. I've got a '68 now with a valeo replacement clutch and Dazecars hydraulic setup. The hydraulic definitely requires a lot less effort and feels a lot smoother.
 

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On my T5 swap should I stay original and go hard linkage or is the hydraulic kit worth the 350 dollar difference? I currently have no parts of the swap as the car was an FMX model.

I'm buying parts I need next month.

1969 351W
People have there options but I went hydraulic and it failed on me within 2 weeks, now I’m z bar
 

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1966 mustang coupe
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399 Posts
I just did a T5 swap last winter and i went with mustang steve cable clutch setup.

It runs really good, my only complaint with cable setups is the interference you may have with the exhaust/headers.

Nothing that cant be fixed.

Overall i am happy with this setup.
 

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I just did a T5 swap last winter and i went with mustang steve cable clutch setup.

It runs really good, my only complaint with cable setups is the interference you may have with the exhaust/headers.

Nothing that cant be fixed.

Overall i am happy with this setup.
Just a FYI. I think that depends on your headers. I have the MS cable set up too and used FPA headers and there is good clearance between the headers and the cable. The only spot that is close, and by close I mean within an inch or two, is right at the end where the cable fits into the ear on the bell housing. I wrapped that area of the cable in heat wrap for some insurance and all is good.
 

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1966 mustang coupe
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399 Posts
Just a FYI. I think that depends on your headers. I have the MS cable set up too and used FPA headers and there is good clearance between the headers and the cable. The only spot that is close, and by close I mean within an inch or two, is right at the end where the cable fits into the ear on the bell housing. I wrapped that area of the cable in heat wrap for some insurance and all is good.
Same thing for me.

I also heat wrapped this section :)
 

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67 Fastback T5 331 TCI Frt End, Canted 4 link rear susp
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1,098 Posts
I did a T5 install in my 67 and went with the hydraulic clutch using the Tilton release bearing. I love how smooth and comfortable the clutch pedal feels. I was also doing a front suspension swap with new steering and headers, and it really opened up the area for steering and header clearance.
 

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+1 on the Mustang Steve set-up. It works really well and I used mine in Atlanta traffic as a daily driver.
 

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As others have said, each option has pluses and minuses.
The Z-bar (actually a bell crank) will never fail if you add a full hemi-joint system (mine is from OpenTracker which includes rollers for the two mounting points). If you use a diaphragm clutch and remove the big “assist” spring under the dash it will be nice, easy and smooth. However, it does take up a bit of room limiting your header and steering upgrade options.
The cable is simple but requires a mounting plate at the firewall for support, can fail/break due to heat (especially with some headers), can stretch over time, and requires a change in the clutch release arm (it pulls rather than pushes).
The hydraulic setups take the least engine bay room allowing for infinite header and steering options, but can leak, the hydraulic throw-out can fail (requiring the transmission to be pulled to change), and there are numerous issues with the master cylinder installation (especially if you have power brakes).
I have the OpenTracker set up and the clutch is as easy as my Mini.
 
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As others have said, each option has pluses and minuses.
The Z-bar (actually a bell crank) will never fail if you add a full hemi-joint system (mine is from OpenTracker which includes rollers for the two mounting points). If you use a diaphragm clutch and remove the big “assist” spring under the dash it will be nice, easy and smooth. However, it does take up a bit of room limiting your header and steering upgrade options.
The cable is simple but requires a mounting plate at the firewall for support, can fail/break due to heat (especially with some headers), can stretch over time, and requires a change in the clutch release arm (it pulls rather than pushes).
The hydraulic setups take the least engine bay room allowing for infinite header and steering options, but can leak, the hydraulic throw-out can fail (requiring the transmission to be pulled to change), and there are numerous issues with the master cylinder installation (especially if you have power brakes).
I have the OpenTracker set up and the clutch is as easy as my Mini.
I have the open tracker setup to that thing is a unit
 

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I've been using Mustang Steve's cable clutch linkage for 15 years and with a McLeod RST clutch, it's very smooth.

I wrecked two crank thrust bearings with an attempt to go hydraulic.
 
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Dimples
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Add me to the list: Mustang Steve cable conversion since 2009. I've been very pleased and have two other cars in the works that will get the same treatment.
 

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1966 mustang coupe
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I've been using Mustang Steve's cable clutch linkage for 15 years and with a McLeod RST clutch, it's very smooth.

I wrecked two crank thrust bearings with an attempt to go hydraulic.
I am using Steve's kit with a McLeod street pro clutch.

Its my first cable clutch setup and to be honest, i was a bit worried of how it would feel but it is in fact really smooth.

I wouldnt hesitate to recommend it.
 

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If your not worried about headers and fitment isn’t a issue z bar is the best way in my opinion
I'm running headers, no issues with clutch linkage or starter or ground clearance. Fits fine. Top it off I have a GT40P motor as well. Regular off the shelf headers.
 

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65 Fastback 289 T5
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I went with the opentracker zbar as I use my 65 as a daily and want as little chance of failure and stranding as possible. Along with roller bearings the clutch actuating makes me happy. Not as easy as the hydraulic in my friends early Izusu Trooper but I have no issues.
 

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If the ratio in the system is the exact same, then a zbar, cable or hydraulic setup should feel nearly the same. My Center Force diaphragm clutch and zbar are super smooth and you can push the pedal into the floor just using two fingers. It feels exact like any modern daily driver.
 

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If the ratio in the system is the exact same, then a zbar, cable or hydraulic setup should feel nearly the same. My Center Force diaphragm clutch and zbar are super smooth and you can push the pedal into the floor just using two fingers. It feels exact like any modern daily driver.
^^^^^me too
My Centerforce with rollerized underdash clutch pivot, rolllerized Zbar like Huskinhano & removed underdash spring has the same pressure required as my `06 GT DD.
 
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