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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm getting my parts lists orders spread out for the year and I need some help with the T5 stuff.

I will be using a Ford Racing 302 crate motor and all I have have for transmission setup is the transmission and a matching bell housing. I figured Iwould go through Mustangs Plus for most of it.
 

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If you call Glazier/Nolan they'll write the list for you based on what year, engine, and trans you have now, without loading it up with stuff you don't need in "pre-packaged" kits.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you call Glazier/Nolan they'll write the list for you based on what year, engine, and trans you have now, without loading it up with stuff you don't need in "pre-packaged" kits.
Better to use them than Mustangs Plus?
 

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I would agree with 22GT.

I do have a couple tips I wish I had known before starting to purchase my parts.

1. the crate motor may not have a mounting hole for a Z bar setup so you might wait to decide on what type of clutch setup you go with.

2. When you order a flywheel make sure it is balanced to your engine 28oz or 50oz. If you have a 28oz you can if you want order a 28oz flywheel that is drilled to run a 10.5" clutch. (Don't buy the $100 one off Fleebay part number pc2508) if you want 10.5" You will have to have dowel pins made for it the stock and ford racing don't fit. And in my case no shoulder bolts would fit the clutch pressure plate. Ask me how i know. It is drilled for standard not metric pressure plate bolts

3. Although I did know this, some may not. If purchasing a 10.5 late model clutch, Buy a "clutch kit" It comes with clutch plate, Pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing. I would ask just to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I would agree with 22GT.

I do have a couple tips I wish I had known before starting to purchase my parts.

1. the crate motor may not have a mounting hole for a Z bar setup so you might wait to decide on what type of clutch setup you go with.

2. When you order a flywheel make sure it is balanced to your engine 28oz or 50oz. If you have a 28oz you can if you want order a 28oz flywheel that is drilled to run a 10.5" clutch. (Don't buy the $100 one off Fleebay part number pc2508) if you want 10.5" You will have to have dowel pins made for it the stock and ford racing don't fit. And in my case no shoulder bolts would fit the clutch pressure plate. Ask me how i know. It is drilled for standard not metric pressure plate bolts

3. Although I did know this, some may not. If purchasing a 10.5 late model clutch, Buy a "clutch kit" It comes with clutch plate, Pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing. I would ask just to make sure.
I'm leaning real hard towards the Ford Racing 306 Crate. Ford Racing Performance Parts It appears they recommend the 50oz flywheel
 

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I'm leaning real hard towards the Ford Racing 306 Crate. Ford Racing Performance Parts It appears they recommend the 50oz flywheel
If you get a roller (5.0) motor, then you'll need the 50oz flywheel. You'll also need to buy a different damper for the crankshaft so you can mount your pulley, unless you want to go serpentine. If you're going to run a carb on it instead of EFI, you'll have to put an early style timing set with fuel pump eccentric and early timing cover with dipstick. Oil pump pickup and pan will have to be early style too. Your distributor will need the right gear on it to work correctly with the billet roller camshaft, otherwise the cam will eat it up in no time.

I've got a 95 Mustang GT roller motor in my 66, converted to carb. It runs great. You'll also need to plug the side dipstick hole in the block, and I had to plug the thermactor holes in the back of the heads.

I'm interested in this thread because I'd like to convert my ailing C4 to T5. I was leaning towards original Z bar clutch setup until I read the part about not having the mount on the block for the linkage. I know you can buy a part that will let you mount a Z bar, but it's $75, plus I'd have to find all the Z bar parts. I think I'd rather put that money towards the dazecar hydraulic clutch setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If you get a roller (5.0) motor, then you'll need the 50oz flywheel. You'll also need to buy a different damper for the crankshaft so you can mount your pulley, unless you want to go serpentine. If you're going to run a carb on it instead of EFI, you'll have to put an early style timing set with fuel pump eccentric and early timing cover with dipstick. Oil pump pickup and pan will have to be early style too. Your distributor will need the right gear on it to work correctly with the billet roller camshaft, otherwise the cam will eat it up in no time.

I've got a 95 Mustang GT roller motor in my 66, converted to carb. It runs great. You'll also need to plug the side dipstick hole in the block, and I had to plug the thermactor holes in the back of the heads.

I'm interested in this thread because I'd like to convert my ailing C4 to T5. I was leaning towards original Z bar clutch setup until I read the part about not having the mount on the block for the linkage. I know you can buy a part that will let you mount a Z bar, but it's $75, plus I'd have to find all the Z bar parts. I think I'd rather put that money towards the dazecar hydraulic clutch setup.
I was just poking around on Modern Driveline's website and they have a real nice, adjustable-at-the-firewall, cable linkeage setup. They also have a neat "build-your-kit" function that walks you through the parts for a T5 swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you get a roller (5.0) motor, then you'll need the 50oz flywheel. You'll also need to buy a different damper for the crankshaft so you can mount your pulley, unless you want to go serpentine. If you're going to run a carb on it instead of EFI, you'll have to put an early style timing set with fuel pump eccentric and early timing cover with dipstick. Oil pump pickup and pan will have to be early style too. Your distributor will need the right gear on it to work correctly with the billet roller camshaft, otherwise the cam will eat it up in no time.

I've got a 95 Mustang GT roller motor in my 66, converted to carb. It runs great. You'll also need to plug the side dipstick hole in the block, and I had to plug the thermactor holes in the back of the heads.

I'm interested in this thread because I'd like to convert my ailing C4 to T5. I was leaning towards original Z bar clutch setup until I read the part about not having the mount on the block for the linkage. I know you can buy a part that will let you mount a Z bar, but it's $75, plus I'd have to find all the Z bar parts. I think I'd rather put that money towards the dazecar hydraulic clutch setup.
where do you relocate the dipstick?
 

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The early timing cover has the dipstick hole in it - passenger side in front of the engine.
A small (I think 3/8") freeze plug will fill the dipstick hole in the 5.0 block under the DS exhaust.

MrFreeze
 
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