Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
For those of you that have converted to an internal hydraulic throw out bearing on a T5, how did you reinstall the transmission.
Did you install the transmission in the normal fashion, bell housing to the block then trans to bell housing or
did you mount the bell housing to the trans and install the complete bell/trans to the block. The reason I ask, is my throw out
bearing must have 2 fluid lines attached and slid onto the trans input shaft prior to installation and appears like it will be a PITA to get the
throw out bearing and lines through the round opening in the bell housing.
 

·
Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
Joined
·
20,662 Posts
I've gotten to where I prefer to install T5's with the bellhousing already on the engine. But other than that I find it a little easier there is no reason you have to. Many transmissions do not even have removable bellhousings so it's not even a choice. Put it in all at once.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I've gotten to where I prefer to install T5's with the bellhousing already on the engine. But other than that I find it a little easier there is no reason you have to. Many transmissions do not even have removable bellhousings so it's not even a choice. Put it in all at once.
Thanks. The other reason I was asking is that to install the bell housing and trans together I'll have to remove the headers. I can snake the bell housing in between the header but not with the trans attached.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,674 Posts
I personally always install the trans and bell as an assembly...both with and without hydraulic TOBs...I just find it easier....but exhaust manifold/headers are always off when I do it too.
 

·
Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
Joined
·
20,662 Posts
Not an option I'd personally be thrilled to do, but you could just unbolt the headers from the heads and maybe loosen the collector bolts. I have done something similar when I needed just a TAD more room to squeeze a transmission in. Not much fun but definitely beats completely removing the headers. I'd try it.

Brother in law once stopped by when I was pulling a C4 out of a '66 with headers and a welded custom exhaust. He looked at it and said there was no way it was coming out unless I pulled the exhaust. No way. My reply was more or less "hold my beer". He left but 20 minutes later I texted him a picture of the C4 out under the undisturbed exhaust. His reply was "You only did that because I came by and said you couldn't." Put it back in too.

Tip, exhaust pipes can be moved more than you might think if you have a really long and strong prybar. An H or X pipe often severely limits what you can do though. Tip two, you need to use pieces of 2 by 4 or other wood as cushions for such prying. Any visible dent marks left from prying ruin the whole deal. Like doctors, mechanics are supposed to cause no harm.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 68Hildago

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,191 Posts
For those of you that have converted to an internal hydraulic throw out bearing on a T5, how did you reinstall the transmission.
Did you install the transmission in the normal fashion, bell housing to the block then trans to bell housing or
did you mount the bell housing to the trans and install the complete bell/trans to the block. The reason I ask, is my throw out
bearing must have 2 fluid lines attached and slid onto the trans input shaft prior to installation and appears like it will be a PITA to get the
throw out bearing and lines through the round opening in the bell housing.
You need to have an 1/8" clearance between the throwout bearing and the fingers on the pressure plate. You need to go with whatever method that allows you to best measure this distance. For me that would be engine out of the car while mating and verifying all dimensions between the engine and transmission. I've done a lot of research on this talking to Tilton and clutch/ pressure plate manufactures. I did this research after a post on my thread in the "track" forum. The Tilton internal throwout bearing is large and can have issues with some clutch/ pressure plate packages.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 68Hildago

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
You need to have an 1/8" clearance between the throwout bearing and the fingers on the pressure plate. You need to go with whatever method that allows you to best measure this distance. For me that would be engine out of the car while mating and verifying all dimensions between the engine and transmission. I've done a lot of research on this talking to Tilton and clutch/ pressure plate manufactures. I did this research after a post on my thread in the "track" forum. The Tilton internal throwout bearing is large and can have issues with some clutch/ pressure plate packages.
I have properly shimmed the throw out bearing. Spec is .15 and I'm at .144. Bearing install calls for 3 measurements, overall installed clutch thickness, crank to block and bell housing to retracted bearing face. Also factor in the separator plate thickness.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,871 Posts
I guess MDL did all the cypherin' work for me. all I had to do was set the Tilton TOB to their specified depth from the bell housing mounting flange.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,674 Posts
You need to have an 1/8" clearance between the throwout bearing and the fingers on the pressure plate. You need to go with whatever method that allows you to best measure this distance. For me that would be engine out of the car while mating and verifying all dimensions between the engine and transmission. I've done a lot of research on this talking to Tilton and clutch/ pressure plate manufactures. I did this research after a post on my thread in the "track" forum. The Tilton internal throwout bearing is large and can have issues with some clutch/ pressure plate packages.
I agree, engine and trans out of the car is the best way to set up a hydraulic TOB...I even bleed it out of the car and leave the slave and master cylinder attached, then physically install the master cylinder once I get the engine back in the car(still with the line attached)....this allows you to work out any issues with plenty of room.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Progress Update. Got home early from work today, weather is somewhat warm here in Maryland so I decided to install my T5. Took the approach to just work the throw out bearing onto the input shaft as I slid the transmission into the bell housing. Got everything setup, trans balanced on a jack with supports, checked , double checked and triple checked that I was ready. Started to slide the trans in and I could not get the trans closer than 3 inches to the bell housing. Spent 1 hours messing with it until I determined that i was not going in. Pulled that trans out and investigated why in would not go in, thinking it was the throw out bearing
After 15 minutes of looking around in the dark, black bell housing I noticed that I failed to removed the clutch alignment tool. 30 minutes later the trans was bolted to the engine. Glad I'm at an age where I can laugh at myself. Doubled checking everything sure paid off in this case.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top