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There are some on that auction site. Or post a WTB here.

a google search found this place. No experience with them


I know west coast Classic Cougar has a good rep.

good luck

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #22
There are some on that auction site. Or post a WTB here.

a google search found this place. No experience with them


I know west coast Classic Cougar has a good rep.

good luck

Jason
I just ordered that actually! Doesnt' matter when it gets here as long as it's next week. I have to run her on the old crank pulley and water pump as I'm getting exhaust done Friday-Sat. Can't believe NPD and ACP make an interference fit for a 5-3/4" which everyone and their mother repros and yet don't sell the one I just bone-yard paid through the nose for.

Going to make CAA/Restomod Air resend me that crank pulley which does work with the 5-3/4 and if their replacement is round instead of egg shaped this time I'll have the option to go back to my current one. I hate this aspect of repro parts. But hey at least we even have options.
 

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Did you end up with the 5-3/4" or with the 5-5/16"?
I don’t remember the measuremeant. I believe it was pulley C6AE-8509-A which is 5 7/8”. The non A/C pulley is 6 7/16” which is about 1/2” wider.

What size is your crank Pulley? The correct three sheave pulley has two smaller inner sheaves and a larger outer sheave. The inner sheaves are 6 5/8”.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Well! That's interesting that you are able to run a 5 7/8 WP diameter while I can't do a 5-3/4". The crank pulley I bought from NPD lists as a 6-5/8 inner pulley size for a 289 A/C car. I have a 302. The middle hump part between the two inner sheaves is interfering with the 5-3/4 WP pulley by just a fraction of an inch. The junk CP from CAA just cleared it by a fraction of an inch so it's less thick in the middle by a tiny amount.

So I'm still at a loss as to why the most common WP pulley size doesn't fit?? I have a 302 instead of a 289 but there should not be any difference of the CP and WP mounting locations. I have a very standard aftermarket aluminum water pump that is brand new as of last year. Perhaps a casting copy error brought it down a very small amount.

If I really wanted to waste some time I could rig up this CP and the 5-3/4 with a junk water pump on my original 289 to see if it all fits. But ehhh. Hoping the next part will resolve this. It should. Pretty big drop for 3/4" to 5/16". I think even a 5.5 would work if such a thing existed. But there is only one company that does this in the aftermarket at 5.0" and 5.25" under drive and their prices are even more obscene than the common repros and used parts markets.

NPD part I bought for crank that resolve my clattering noise is this:

 

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Just FYI, I have a 70's 302 block in my car, but I had to use the balancer and pulleys that came on the 302/289 abomination that was in the car when I got it. I wish I still had that tired worn out abomination, but it was stolen by metal thieves some time ago from where I had it stored. My balancer and pulleys are 3 bolt, and appear all correct for a '67 car with A/C and P/S.

I'm in holding pattern for mine (though I have tons of other work before I drive it again) as I need a mid-late (but not stamped) '67 adjusting pulley. I'm getting rid of the "pork chop" adjuster used on '66s and early '67s. For whatever reason, mine had that style, and it required shimming to get it to line up. It also had some wrong condenser on it when I got it and the radiator support had been modified to make it work. Since most of the A/C system is shot, I was going to do the update from original air group for the original A/C control box. I have been to their shop in Tampa and it's pretty nice. My idler pulley is backordered because they can't get something for it due to the COVID stuff. Should be here soon though.....

Hope it works out.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
I think I found an interim solution! WP pulley needs to come forward about 1/8” or so. I put two big heavy washers around the pump tip, tightened the fan/clutch assembly on and the sheaves clear one another. Ran it with one belt for 5 minutes no issues. Belts line up just fine.

Only problem is though is the the pulley has a little bit of runout no matter how evenly you tighten the 4 bolts. Not much but a little bit more than I’d like to see. Didn't affect anything when revved to high RPM but this is a temp fix.

I’m going to try it with my other pump pulley tomorrow which is the same size (that ACP one) might work better and get me cruising through the weekend.

Now that I know they exist I’m looking for a real pump pulley spacer.
 

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Well! That's interesting that you are able to run a 5 7/8 WP diameter while I can't do a 5-3/4". The crank pulley I bought from NPD lists as a 6-5/8 inner pulley size for a 289 A/C car. I have a 302. The middle hump part between the two inner sheaves is interfering with the 5-3/4 WP pulley by just a fraction of an inch. The junk CP from CAA just cleared it by a fraction of an inch so it's less thick in the middle by a tiny amount.

So I'm still at a loss as to why the most common WP pulley size doesn't fit?? I have a 302 instead of a 289 but there should not be any difference of the CP and WP mounting locations. I have a very standard aftermarket aluminum water pump that is brand new as of last year. Perhaps a casting copy error brought it down a very small amount.

If I really wanted to waste some time I could rig up this CP and the 5-3/4 with a junk water pump on my original 289 to see if it all fits. But ehhh. Hoping the next part will resolve this. It should. Pretty big drop for 3/4" to 5/16". I think even a 5.5 would work if such a thing existed. But there is only one company that does this in the aftermarket at 5.0" and 5.25" under drive and their prices are even more obscene than the common repros and used parts markets.

NPD part I bought for crank that resolve my clattering noise is this:

Ok, I went over and checked my car. The Crank pulley is C8OE-6312-B, the Water pump pulley is C6AE-8509-A which is 5 7/8” as I thought. The original Non A/C water pump pulley was wider at 6 7/16”. It wouldn’t work and I had to swap it for the smaller A/C pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Temporary solution till real purpose made spacers get here 😁🤟😜

edit: those washers were a bad idea. Don’t do it 🙃☺ It sawed through my pump pulley around the bolts.

I used proper spacers. Ended up the 5-3/4 could work with a double spacer but the 5-5/16 was much better and I used just one spacer to get optimal belt alignment. Believe my water pump shaft is a tiny bit short.
 

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I think I found an interim solution! WP pulley needs to come forward about 1/8” or so. I put two big heavy washers around the pump tip, tightened the fan/clutch assembly on and the sheaves clear one another. Ran it with one belt for 5 minutes no issues. Belts line up just fine.

Only problem is though is the the pulley has a little bit of runout no matter how evenly you tighten the 4 bolts. Not much but a little bit more than I’d like to see. Didn't affect anything when revved to high RPM but this is a temp fix.

I’m going to try it with my other pump pulley tomorrow which is the same size (that ACP one) might work better and get me cruising through the weekend.

Now that I know they exist I’m looking for a real pump pulley spacer.
The fact that you had to shim the WP pulley out to line up makes me wonder if your harmonic balancer is fully on the crank. You mig need to tighten it some to see if it will go on further.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Ok, I went over and checked my car. The Crank pulley is C8OE-6312-B, the Water pump pulley is C6AE-8509-A which is 5 7/8” as I thought. The original Non A/C water pump pulley was wider at 6 7/16”. It wouldn’t work and I had to swap it for the smaller A/C pulley.
Thanks for looking. The only reason in can think that I cannot make clearances work with a 5-3/4” without shimming the pump pulley forward 1/4” is that either the aftermarket pump isn’t proportioned like the OE.....or ACP’s crank pulley is thicker on the sheaves than the OE. I noticed my OE crank
Pulley 2-groove is smaller and thinner.
I have spacers and a 5-5/16th pump pulley and CAA is sending me another crank pulley that hopefully isn’t bent egg shaped and making n that terrible racket that started this whole costly adventure. So I’ll have lots of combos to play with!!
 

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Good luck, hopefully the new crank pulley is better than the first. Which office are you buying from at CAA. CAA merged with another company a few years back. The original Tampa office handles restoration work and is now call Original Air. The rest of the company is in TX and makes aftermarket retrofit systems. Each office sells different parts. I wonder if you are getting retrofit pulleys instead of the reproduction Ford style.

Wha5 are you using for the res of the system? I have a fully restored original Ford system upgraded with CAA’s improved condenser and evaporator. I am even running R12. It’s not cold enough, but I think I let some air in. I need to find some more R12 so I can fully evacuate it and refill it.
 
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Discussion Starter #32
The fact that you had to shim the WP pulley out to line up makes me wonder if your harmonic balancer is fully on the crank. You mig need to tighten it some to see if it will go on further.
Truuuust me it’s down on there! I know what I’m doing. If it wasn’t flush it would bang and wobble everywhere.

One thing I’ve noticed with all the repros. Never scrutinized the OE stuff when it was on... but there is always some small degree of wobble. New CP, WP pulley even idler pulley. So if you get a part that is bad, is egg shaped it’s going to hit something. Although the bad Clasdic Auto Air CP clacked by itself. It was tight and wasn’t hitting the pulley because it was removed and still made noise. I think it was belt slap from the oblong shape of it.

Sigh....the aftermarket/repro parts always end up like this. Gotta try them all till the right combo works.

I’m R134a. I got my under dash unit from Restomod Air who is in Texas co-located with CAA. Went with Restomod because they sell much nicer under dash units than CAA that look like the original 60s version theme with round vents.
Obviously they are selling cheap junk for pulleys. Even though the clearance is a bit better than the NPD/ACP pulley (also a foreign made part) I’ll keep it on as it’s better quality.


 

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So is your ac finally working?

what temp air does it blow after say 10 minutes while cruising down the road? I keep one of those little thermometers to check my classic cars
 
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