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Discussion Starter #381 (Edited)
If you are looking for welding equipment, check out McMaster Carr. www.mcmaster.com/#welding-jackets/=1akqiy6

I got the cotton welding jacket but the have one with leather sleeves that would work too. Prices aren't to bad.

Andy
I'll keep that suggestion in mind. Thanks.

WTFG! I'm impressed young man, you have a lot of heart. :thumbsup::thumbsup:
Aww shucks. You definitely helped me early on! I wanna share the one part I'm most proud of on that Dart. Factory roof seams are halfway through the C pillar but the vinyl top rusted out to the top of the quarter panel. Our donor only had half of what we needed from the seam down so we had to get the other chunks shipped. Welded the donors together then onto the car. One side was easy, the other side's donors were bent differently SOMEHOW. Yeah... that was by far the most challenging repair I've done. Welding the roof skin itself back on was easy! I'm pretty proud of how it all turned out. I need to return to it to do a little hammering and a little bit of filler before it's officially done but my buddy's actually able to drive it without the fear that roof chunks are going to fly off and kill someone.






I do a fair amount of welding, mostly mig some big. You didn't say what process you were using but if it's just mig on sheet/light gauge or tig you'll be fine with an FR shirt. You may want to splurge a bit and get a better hood than the HF hood. If I'm not doing a lot and it's relatively low power I'll wear a long sleeve shirt. The issue isn't with UV as long as the skin is covered. It's with getting burned. I do cages and chassis (usually .120 plus) more than sheet and many times and perhaps most times out of position and it's easy to get burned. I've got a Lincoln jacket that's a combination FR back with suede sides and arms. Don't cheap out on the gloves, get some that are comfortable yet allow flexibility.
Only welding right now is MIG and none of my equipment is HF. So you think long sleeved FR jackets are good enough for not having bright red arms at the end of the day (over necessitating leather)? I do my best not to skimp on safety equipment but there's a big difference between spending $35 and $170. I've been doing an increasingly large amount of sheet metal stuff.
 

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Non FR cotton will protect you from UV. To prevent UV burns you just need the skin covered. FR is more resistant to burning. The issue with cotton, FR or not, is that it will burn when something bigger than a spark hits it like slag that has some of the material in it. If I'm doing more than tacking or a short stringer I'll put on a leather jacket. You can get a Tillman leather for about $50 or an FR shirt for about $20 if you shop online. If you've got an Airgas near you the house brand Radnor last I looked was made by Tillman.

In the context of the prior post HF means Harbor Freight.
 

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Discussion Starter #383
Non FR cotton will protect you from UV. To prevent UV burns you just need the skin covered. FR is more resistant to burning. The issue with cotton, FR or not, is that it will burn when something bigger than a spark hits it like slag that has some of the material in it. If I'm doing more than tacking or a short stringer I'll put on a leather jacket. You can get a Tillman leather for about $50 or an FR shirt for about $20 if you shop online. If you've got an Airgas near you the house brand Radnor last I looked was made by Tillman.

In the context of the prior post HF means Harbor Freight.
Thanks for the info. I've got a quality welding supply place near me that I should probably give my business instead of Amazon.

I know. A lot of my smaller equipment (magnets, butt weld clamps) are Harbor Freight but none of my proper welding equipment is.
 

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Discussion Starter #384
It's looking like my fuel pump is crapping out. Anybody have any replacement suggestions? So far as I can tell this is a Carter M4009. I'd prefer to stick to the Carter family if I could. RockAuto tells me this is the proper pump. Meanwhile, CJ's says the current one on the car doesn't work on 302s for some reason.

 

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I also bought the Carter M4009 from rockauto for my '66 302. It's the same model recommended for a 65 289 by many other Mustang parts houses but it's 1/3 the cost on rockauto. I have 1000+ miles on the car with this pump and it's worked great! Plus, the integrated and large filter is better than another other stock-type option I found.

EDIT: Warning though, this pump does NOT work with a Cobra oil pan; you're unable to remove the filter can since this version is longer than an original Carter Button-Top pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #386 (Edited)
I also bought the Carter M4009 from rockauto for my '66 302. It's the same model recommended for a 65 289 by many other Mustang parts houses but it's 1/3 the cost on rockauto. I have 1000+ miles on the car with this pump and it's worked great! Plus, the integrated and large filter is better than another other stock-type option I found.

EDIT: Warning though, this pump does NOT work with a Cobra oil pan; you're unable to remove the filter can since this version is longer than an original Carter pump. I believe this is the pump needed if you want an integral filter, stockish appearance, and ability to use the Cobra oil pan:
65 260,289 CANISTER TYPE FUEL PUMP
I didn't realize that filter was removable. I guess I should yank it and see if that's clogged before spending $40 on a replacement. So you think a direct replacement for the M4009 is the way to go over other 302 pumps?
 

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Yea I'd start with replacing the filter. The Carter M4009 flows 40gph which supports approx 400hp; the estimation is 10hp per 1gph fuel. This amount was sufficient for my 306 so that's what I went with and I liked the stock appearance with large filter.
Choosing the Correct Fuel Pump
 

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Discussion Starter #388 (Edited)
My fuel starvation problems have returned and it looks like I need to clean out the system. Especially before the drive to Knott's Berry Farm for this small Ford show I've heard so much about.

I have a few questions about it. I've been using the fuel filter as a guide to whether or not it's actually starved and it's definitely intermittent. It runs best when it is full but the problems occur when it's only half full. I have a new fuel tank, metal lines from the tank to the pump, new pump, and a clean fuel filter. The metal line from the pump to the carb is 15ish years old.

Everything else is less than 4. I've been wanting to bend a new pump to carb metal line because it looks like someone bent this one by hand over their knee and it looks like crap. So I'll be doing that soon regardless. The only other things I can think would be causing this problem would be crap in the sock in the tank or in the metal lines.

My current plan is to drain the tank, yank the sender and clean the sock, blow solvent through the metal lines, and replace any rubber with Earl's Vapor Guard. Is there anything else I'm missing in this fuel delivery battle of attrition?

Also, when I run a new metal line, about how much fuel line will I need? And what's the recommended path to run it?

(I know the picture quality is overkill but it's the best/most recent pic I've got.)

 

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keep it simple and follow the same path that was in there for the fuel line. I just used a braided hose from Jegs instead of the metal line from the pump to carb. looks a little better in my opinion that having metal clamped onto rubber hose.


have you tried to run the car with the gas cap off to see if you have a vacuum issue in the tank not allowing fuel to flow?
have you checked your fuel pump to see if its making enough pressure?
when do the issues start to show: long drives, short drives with hard acceleration?
I would doubt that its the sock inside the tank unless you have a really dirty/gummed up tank or your issues would be more common every time you drive. But it wont hurt to check since you want to purge the lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #390
keep it simple and follow the same path that was in there for the fuel line. I just used a braided hose from Jegs instead of the metal line from the pump to carb. looks a little better in my opinion that having metal clamped onto rubber hose.


have you tried to run the car with the gas cap off to see if you have a vacuum issue in the tank not allowing fuel to flow?
have you checked your fuel pump to see if its making enough pressure?
when do the issues start to show: long drives, short drives with hard acceleration?
I would doubt that its the sock inside the tank unless you have a really dirty/gummed up tank or your issues would be more common every time you drive. But it wont hurt to check since you want to purge the lines.
Sometimes the problem is immediate and other times it starts about an hour into driving. I'm using my original gas cap and the car was not sold in California. I'm not entirely what lines/breathers/valves/etc are supposed to be around the tank. I haven't run it without the cap but it's been fine for 3+ years (or 51).

I haven't checked the pump since I replaced it. I posted a couple months back about it and threw in a Carter M4009 (the same thing that was in there). I know a part being new doesn't mean it's good, but I highly doubt that's the issue.

The tank SHOULDN'T be gummed up. But who knows if there's a bunch of manufacturing related crap floating around in there. Or if a bunch of dirt snuck it's way in because the gas cap is old.
 

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are you running a pertronix or MSD box? a while back when I first finished my engine swap, I had issues that were similar. placed on carb spacers, fuel lines, new msd magnetic pickup, coils... all to find that it was the msd box itself. maybe your coil is heating up too much or something else ignition wise. to me it doesn't make much sense that its sporadic in timing on when it happens.


Here's one time consuming way to check if it is fuel starvation: bring a set of gloves and tools to pull the plugs. drive it around and drive it till it dies. leave it alone to cool off and then check to see if the plugs look like they are showing signs of running lean. OR go buy an AFR gauge and install that. that will show you instantly if you're having a fuel issue as it will start showing on the digital gauge if it's running lean when the problem occurs. And it's nice to have around for tuning of the carb.


if that's not it, try running cables from the coil to a multimeter in the cab where you can see it. when it starts acting up, maybe you'll be able to catch the voltage drops if it's a coil issue. to be honest, I have never tried this approach, just read about it being done before.
 

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Discussion Starter #392
are you running a pertronix or MSD box? a while back when I first finished my engine swap, I had issues that were similar. placed on carb spacers, fuel lines, new msd magnetic pickup, coils... all to find that it was the msd box itself. maybe your coil is heating up too much or something else ignition wise. to me it doesn't make much sense that its sporadic in timing on when it happens.


Here's one time consuming way to check if it is fuel starvation: bring a set of gloves and tools to pull the plugs. drive it around and drive it till it dies. leave it alone to cool off and then check to see if the plugs look like they are showing signs of running lean. OR go buy an AFR gauge and install that. that will show you instantly if you're having a fuel issue as it will start showing on the digital gauge if it's running lean when the problem occurs. And it's nice to have around for tuning of the carb.


if that's not it, try running cables from the coil to a multimeter in the cab where you can see it. when it starts acting up, maybe you'll be able to catch the voltage drops if it's a coil issue. to be honest, I have never tried this approach, just read about it being done before.
I appreciate the suggestions. I'm running points and a new coil. A couple months back I fried my Petronix setup and gave up on that for the timing being. My coil/ignition issues wouldn't allow me to stay idling. I can idle just fine (more or less). It's any acceleration that gives me a problem. The difference in how the car handles when that fuel filter is full versus half empty, along with the weird sneeze that has started happening through the carb while accelerating makes me think the fuel system is the problem. Is there even a point to yanking plugs if it's only been happening for ~300 miles?

Today or tomorrow I'm going to start picking up some metal lines and other odds and ends to blow through the system.
 

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Discussion Starter #393
Okay. I drained the tank, blew out the sender filter, and discovered some interesting/janky-*** repairs done by the repair shop of questionable merit because in July 2014. The tank is clean and the filter is nearly perfect.

The shop told me they had replaced the entire metal fuel line when they did the work. I was 16 when this was all done and had no idea what to look for, and now that I do... ooh boy. They kept the original metal line from the tank to around the start of the fender. Then they cut it, ran an 8 1/2" rubber line, then a horribly hand bent line from there to the fuel filter. I always knew the metal line was bad, it hung several inches below the car, but I never had any real reason to investigate before.







I sprayed some solvent through the original line and blew it out, uncovered some crap but nothing really solid enough to be the culprit.


That 8 1/2" line, along with an almost fiberless line from sender to the metal line, are bad but I'm not sure if those could be the culprit. Could that be long enough to flatten under pressure and asphyxiate the system? It seems necessary to bend a new metal line to the original and other butt them together with new rubber or try to find male and female connectors and flare both ends.

Could somebody tell me exactly where the vent in the gas cap is? It was suggested to me that the vent could be packed full of dirt.
 

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Holy everloving hell! If that counts as mechanic work out there in Cali, then I should go into business! Wow!
 

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Discussion Starter #395
Holy everloving hell! If that counts as mechanic work out there in Cali, then I should go into business! Wow!
It's far from the first mechanical disaster I've uncovered at the hands of that shop. @qbui has had some problems with them as well. You can't throw a stick without hitting an automotive place around here but good luck finding someone competent.

To be fair, the engine hasn't physically fallen out yet and I did pay them to install it. Although I think I need new motor mounts. :shrug:
 

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The one time I took my Mustang there, they said my fuel tank was dirty and I need to replace or flush the tank. Also needed to rebuild my carb which was rebuilt couple months before. I had them flush the tank but I doubt they did that since I was still getting sediment in the fuel bowl in the carb. Also had them rebuilt the carb because the Mustang was stalling at stop lights. Just got the Mustang few months before so I was rusty with working on cars so I fell for their BS. Whoever rebuilt the carb left out parts during the rebuilt. I go back once in a blue moon for parts but would not let them touch my Mustang ever again.
 

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Discussion Starter #397
The one time I took my Mustang there, they said my fuel tank was dirty and I need to replace or flush the tank. Also needed to rebuild my carb which was rebuilt couple months before. I had them flush the tank but I doubt they did that since I was still getting sediment in the fuel bowl in the carb. Also had them rebuilt the carb because the Mustang was stalling at stop lights. Just got the Mustang few months before so I was rusty with working on cars so I fell for their BS. Whoever rebuilt the carb left out parts during the rebuilt. I go back once in a blue moon for parts but would not let them touch my Mustang ever again.
I've still got the 6 cylinder they said had a rod knock. I'm going to rip it apart one of these days and see if that's true. You should go to Mustangs Etc on Kester and Bessemer next time you need something in a pinch.
 

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Well give up the ghost, what's the shop that did this? >:)
 
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