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I am contemplating changing out the old worn manual steering box in my 66. My initial thought was to install the TCP manual rack & pinion setup. I am not too into originality and the the idea of having a nice tight steering setup is appealing.

I have several questions concerning this. First has anyone used manual TCP rack? If going from stock manual to TCP manual what is the change in steering effort. I am hoping that the effort is equal to or less than the stock effort.

Second what would the performance difference be between the TCP rack an a new Flaming River quick ratio box? The FR box is about half the cost of the TCP manual rack. I know how a modern R&P setup feels and I know all too well how my worn box feels (can move it almost three inches off center in either direction before the car moves) but I don't have any experience with how a brand new FR box feels.

Can anyone comment on the difference in feel between the FR and TCP racks? If the FR box is a 90% solution then I'd be inclined to save the money, otherwise I'd lean toward the TCP rack.

Thanks
 

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I can't comment on the two options you are considering, I can tell you that i was also un-happy with my steering feel. I was
considering going to one of those solutions. I had a good manual steering box, and decided to try some other options.
I installed the Shelby pitman and idler arm, and the ball bearing
idler arm kit. The steering response is alot tighter and the feel
is ALOT better. Both these improvements would transfer over to the Flaming river box if quicker steering was needed.
My car is geared in the performance direction, and I'm very with the way it handles now!


Regards,
BillGear

1966 Mustang Coupe, 302 custom roller cam, holley 650dp,http://www.289mustang.com
http://www.289mustang.com/images/vmfcar.jpg
 

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I sat on a airplane once next to a suspension engineer from one of the big three. He told me that there is no real difference in R&P and worm and sector in a properly set up box. All things being equal the only difference is that the R&P is much cheaper to build and lighter. Both of which are important in todays world. There is no magic to either box.

Gene J

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1584519&a=12058180&p=43615717.jpg
66 Coupe/66 Convert/84 GT Turbo/96 coupe

Gene's cars
 

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I installed the TCP R&P system and it definitely tightened things up. There are a couple of bugs I'm still trying to work out though. TCP has a forum on their website with sub-topics for each of their products. You will find a lot of good information about experiences and/or problems people have had with the R&P set-up. Kudos to TCP for posting this information as not all of it is flattering.

Tom Nash
68 Coupe, 5.0 EFI, 5sp
 
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For over $1000, save your money - I have a nice shape manual box in my convertible, and it steers just fine. The only bad thing about it is it's not power, which I will probably need in the future so my wife can drive this car. Otherwise, the road feel is great, there's no play in the box. I seriously doubt a manual rack & pinion system is going to be any easier to steer than a manual box. Now, if you really wanted power, then maybe it would be worthwhile going to the power r&p system. Otherwise, just trade in your box for a good rebuild (or rebuild it yourself).

Also, be sure that it IS your box - when I changed over all my old crappy front end linkage, my car was like brand new. Sloppy ball joints and bushings will make a huge difference in how your car reacts, including the symptoms you describe.

Visit my repair page for Repair info, with pictures! http://home.dencity.com/mustangcub
 

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Hey Cub,
No disrespect ment but you havn't drove a R&P car have ya. There is no comparison. Not even in the same ball park. Yes, we can get by with the old set up. If you want to get by, like you said, save your money. If you want the best, it's R&P m8.
regards,
RT
 
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