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Discussion Starter #1
Long story short, I will have to delete my power booster on the Ranchero because if the EFI manifold i am installing. Now with easy mods,I can have the correct pedal ratio for manual brakes. Will be a daily driver 3600 lb car with front disk from 69 fairlane and rear disk optional. Wont be any grandmas driving it but dont want to stand on it to stop either.Anybody had experience with the Porterfield R4S pads or similar ? They are supposed to be less pedal effort. Will probably go with the smaller bore Maveric MC
 

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My 1970 Mach 1 has non-power discs and it stops great. It requires a little more pedal effort than a power disc setup, but that's all. (Shoot, my '69 Cougar had non-power drums all around it stopped great.)

FYI, I'm running the Kelsey Hayes 4-piston calipers up front and factory drums at the rear. This is the same setup the early Shelbys had.

You must be sure your master cylinder is correct for front discs. A master cylinder intended for four-wheel drum brakes will not work.
 

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I think you specifically need a manual front disc master cylinder because the push rod is not the same. They were not installed on a lot of Fords but there were some. I am pretty sure I remember correctly that the manual disc mc has a LARGER bore so it pushes more volume and also makes it a bit easier to apply more pressure. I got one for some late 60's early 70's Ford truck that had manual front disc's.
 

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Long story short, I will have to delete my power booster on the Ranchero because if the EFI manifold i am installing. Now with easy mods,I can have the correct pedal ratio for manual brakes. Will be a daily driver 3600 lb car with front disk from 69 fairlane and rear disk optional. Wont be any grandmas driving it but dont want to stand on it to stop either.Anybody had experience with the Porterfield R4S pads or similar ? They are supposed to be less pedal effort. Will probably go with the smaller bore Maveric MC
Definitely nothing bigger than 1" for disc/drum. (15/16 Maverick/Granada master is ok)
If you went with rear disc, 1-inch.

I've got R-4S SHOES on a '48 Ford truck. They work like a charm. Definitely no booster required. That friction formula in their
disc pads are the same deal. I don't have those pads on anything currently but have used them in the past with success.
Last time on the street was with a 2005 Ford 500. Only pad that was truly effective on that 3800# car.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 

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Ii love my manual brakes.
 

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Could you install a smaller booster from a Fox Mustang and keep your power brakes?

Some modification required, but not to difficult.
 
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I have boosted brakes on my 66 convt and can't tell too much difference from manual. I also have R4-S shoes. No difference in pedal effort but stops maybe 20% faster from the fronts. Adding R4-S to my rear drums improved stopping only 5-10% better.
 

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i can tell you that my falcon and my mustang both have non power brakes, no issues with those cars. i had an 84 F250 diesel truck that the power booster died on, and so from that point until i sold the truck, i drove our with a dead power booster. stopping was a bit tougher but still doable, and not too bad.

that said i will be adding power brakes to my mustang at least, and probably my falcon as well, i dont have the leg strength i used to have.
 

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I have had good luck with boosted brakes, along with boosted engines, transmissions, seats, anything that can be boosted off a car without getting caught and going to jail.

Is this the question?
 

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My 65 is manual disc/drum, stops fine.

My 67 is power drum, stops fine, except the booster went out and it was a buttload of money for the correct replacement with a 90 day warranty.If it goes out again Im going to swap over to manual disc/drum.
 

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You will be happy with non-boosted brakes.

But really, it's a bit apples to oranges but I converted my '66 fastback from power to manual after getting tired of always fudging around with the sketchy power boosters. I like manual braking a LOT better. That said, my car weighs a lot less than yours, probably, though that could be argued when she's got tons of road trip gear loaded up.

At any rate, the proper MC (I use a '74 Mav front disc/rear drum MC, which is a 15/16" bore) will help with pedal effort a lot. An adjustable pushrod may also help you fine-tune things in terms of pedal height and total throw (affects leverage).

I use EBC red pads on my car and they are great. No experience with the Porterfields unfortunately so I can't compare them.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Could you install a smaller booster from a Fox Mustang and keep your power brakes?

Some modification required, but not to difficult.
[the fairlane firewall is way different. it uses a offset bracket that places the booster about 4" off the firewall and about 4' up so the master is not touching the shock tower. that is how the get the pedal ratio right for boosted. When i loose that bracket and hold my 8" double diaphram booster to where it would bolt to the firewall it is touching the valve covers If I were to come straight out of the firewall with a 7" single d booster it might clear the valve covers but the MC would run into the shock tower. It is a real mess. I know about the mustang Steve fox body booster and all but can not see it happening I have read about the Geo Metro swap that the Falcon guys are doing and that could be an option for me but it has issues as well
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks everybody. I do feel better now I could have reversed my lightning manifold so it gets air from the passenger side like a 5.0 but that would require welding on it and taking a chance of screwing up the lettering and I would hate myself for ever after if that happened. Will start with the correct MC, better pads and keep the drums on the 8" rear All i wanted the disks out back for was the bling anyway
 

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I think you specifically need a manual front disc master cylinder because the push rod is not the same. They were not installed on a lot of Fords but there were some. I am pretty sure I remember correctly that the manual disc mc has a LARGER bore so it pushes more volume and also makes it a bit easier to apply more pressure. I got one for some late 60's early 70's Ford truck that had manual front disc's.
To reduce pedal effort the diameter of the master cylinder has to get smaller.
 

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1966 Mustang Hardtop 289 4 Speed
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My 66 is also non power brakes. Mind you I’ve only driven it around the yard so far but I’ve found my clutch pedal is stiffer then my brake pedal. From what I’ve seen and feel I can’t image adding a booster to be an upgrade.
 
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