Vintage Mustang Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part September's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 20 of 242 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Starting a build thread for the first time to document progress and get advise from the many on here who have dealt with the issues posed by this swap. My car has the second generation MII Heidts front end in it with an SBF and a t5 right now. Fueling is from tanks inc injection tank and Pimpxs. I mini tubbed it and installed an SoT 3 link, 9" with 3.89's and truetrac last year. Here in the planned parts list as of now.

Gen 3 mustang coyote(new or used not sure yet)

Vintage air front runner(not sure if I will be running a driven PS pump or Volvo electric)

T56 wide ratio with QT bell, 1330 yoke, clutch fork (will be here next week)

Running a cable for the clutch right now since I already have it. May go to hydraulic if the pedal is too stiff.

Ford control pack

Flywheel

Clutch

Pilot

Trans tunnel

Driveshaft will be Sot

Will run Manual brake's for now. Probably wilwood MC

Headers are TBD

Oil cooler nonsense is TBD

Radiator and fan are TBD


Seems daunting. Here is the car as it sits:

Car Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive parking light Vehicle registration plate
Tire Wheel Car Land vehicle Vehicle
Motor vehicle Car Vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior
Vehicle Hood Car Automotive design Motor vehicle
Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Car seat cover Automotive design
Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Steering part Steering wheel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,393 Posts
Well, since the Coyote inlet/outlet look identical to my 3.7L, I can at least suggest a radiator....look for an aftermarket aluminum one from a 66 T-Bird:



The height is low enough to tuck under the radiator support(note: the measurment you are looking for the the core height, the overall height is taller because of brackets you may have to cut off) and the inlet/outlet are where you need them. Yes, you would need to cut the support open to maximize airflow and yes, you would need to use a similar expansion tank system to S197 mustangs(or do like me and come up with something on your own):

Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior Auto part Automotive design


I actually used a SN95 radiator, but the same concept, I just learned the T-bird unit would fit bitter after I had already installed the SN95 unit
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nos681

·
Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well, since the Coyote inlet/outlet look identical to my 3.7L, I can at least suggest a radiator....look for an aftermarket aluminum one from a 66 T-Bird:



The height is low enough to tuck under the radiator support(note: the measurment you are looking for the the core height, the overall height is taller because of brackets you may have to cut off) and the inlet/outlet are where you need them. Yes, you would need to cut the support open to maximize airflow and yes, you would need to use a similar expansion tank system to S197 mustangs(or do like me and come up with something on your own):

View attachment 823524

I actually used a SN95 radiator, but the same concept, I just learned the T-bird unit would fit bitter after I had already installed the SN95 unit
Thanks for the input. My current radiator is that configuration but much smaller(direct 66 replacement for 5.0 swap). Its a Ron Davis radiator with 2 1" rows. I would like to run as large as I can, but the airbox needs to go up there somewhere. I wonder if with the right fan I could get away with keeping the one I have. Not sure if its enough with AC.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,393 Posts
Thanks for the input. My current radiator is that configuration but much smaller(direct 66 replacement for 5.0 swap). Its a Ron Davis radiator with 2 1" rows. I would like to run as large as I can, but the airbox needs to go up there somewhere. I wonder if with the right fan I could get away with keeping the one I have. Not sure if its enough with AC.
As long as your aren't looking to fit a battery up there(battery I have there is just temp there till I relocate it) you should have plenty of room for an airbox...I would recommend making your own airbox anyway rather that trying to fit one made for a different chassis, neither fiberglass or steel would be incredibly difficult to fabricate for something like that, it doesn't have to be air tight, it just needs to isolate a cone filter from the engine bay heat.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Anangryford

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,229 Posts
Since the shock towers are gone anyway, enjoy your 8000 rpm! What the hell is going on with your shifter? I'm not sure if I hate it or want it?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Since the shock towers are already gone anyway, enjoy your 8000 rpm! What the hell is going on with your shifter? I'm not sure if I hate it or want it?
It’s a “restomod” shifter mustangs plus made back in the day. Makes driving super comfortable and the throw shorter.
Motor vehicle Line Poster Font Engineering
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I think your car is almost perfect as it is. Love the stance. Love that rear end shot. Love the color.

Hate the shifter. That's why it's almost perfect lol.
It may go away. Depends on where the t56 shifter is located.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,229 Posts
If the shifter has to go away PM me. If it actually works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If the shifter has to go away PM me. If it actually works.
It works well. I’ll let you know. It’s going to be a while. My wife is giving me a monthly allowance and if I use a new crate 3rd gen it’s about $10k😳. Oh, and DONT SELL YOUR CAR! It’s one of my favorites on here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
252 Posts
I have a close friend doing a Coyote / 10R80 in a classic bronco (also in Phx). He convinced me that buying the new Coyote long block would come out around 1K cheaper due to not paying for parts that wouldn't be used.

Here's what he bought:
Ford Performance Gen 3 Coyote Engine - Long Block | M-6006-M50C (lmr.com)

Not sure if tat's helpful as I haven't seen anyone here buy a long block vs. complete, but it makes for an interesting discussion. Very cool build. I can't offer much, but I'm not far away if you need a second pair of hands.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have a close friend doing a Coyote / 10R80 in a classic bronco (also in Phx). He convinced me that buying the new Coyote long block would come out around 1K cheaper due to not paying for parts that wouldn't be used.

Here's what he bought:
Ford Performance Gen 3 Coyote Engine - Long Block | M-6006-M50C (lmr.com)

Not sure if tat's helpful as I haven't seen anyone here buy a long block vs. complete, but it makes for an interesting discussion. Very cool build. I can't offer much, but I'm not far away if you need a second pair of hands.
I would think it would be hard to find an intake and injectors with a tb alone. I’ll look into it though. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
65 Coupe / Family owned since 21 APR 1964
Joined
·
788 Posts
I would think it would be hard to find an intake and injectors with a tb alone. I’ll look into it though. Thanks!
Looks like someone’s been shopping…. 👍😄

Ive seen numerous Gen2 and even a few GT350 intakes on ebay with “typical” price points. Throttle body’s as well. Injectors/injector rails not as often but those could be easily sourced new. Actually, been a bit since I looked but I believe all of it can still be found (new) through Ford Performance or other outlets.

Cheers
 
1 - 20 of 242 Posts
Top