[Kjsmitty]

I would think it would be hard to find an intake and injectors with a tb alone. I’ll look into it though. Thanks!

Looks like someone’s been shopping…. 👍😄

Ive seen numerous Gen2 and even a few GT350 intakes on ebay with “typical” price points. Throttle body’s as well. Injectors/injector rails not as often but those could be easily sourced new. Actually, been a bit since I looked but I believe all of it can still be found (new) through Ford Performance or other outlets.

Cheers

 

[Kjsmitty]

Looks more like a Gen2. Not that it matters. Still a great price

 

[Kjsmitty]

The Gen-3 is in the house!!!!!
Congrats!

 

[Kjsmitty]

Do you have access to an engine hoist? You basically have two lifting options on the engine. There are large steel adapters that mount - one on the rear of the passenger head the other on the front side of the drivers head. There are also intake manifold plates that bolt on with the manifold off etc. I have both and found the manifold plate by far the best. The below from MMR is one of the best (1/2 inch thick billet aluminum $70). Having the intake off is also best if you’re making multiple fit tests, in and out etc. The manifold plate will lift both engine and trans assembled.

 

[Kjsmitty]

Nice looking radiator but as you may be thinking - it may not work for you - or, as you stated size/space and every thing else the swap requires may take you a different direction etc.

Two key items/requirements many have is both an engine oil cooler and power steering (PS) cooler. ( Is that provisions for a trans “or“ PS cooler in the bottom of yours?)(I just remembered you may run elect PS as well)

Both can be done external to the radiator but space and extra plumbing can be an issue. I looked for the largest radiator that would fit and had both the PS and engine oil cooler integrated into the radiator etc. The PS was a given. The engine oil cooler I could have gone stand alone, installed in front but my future dream of an intercooler “requirement“ 😜 had me wanting to preserve space out front and minimize plumbing in that area. I settled on a C&R radiator W/both coolers built in - it’s actually sized / designed for a 67 or newer Mustang application but given the radiator support mods I already had planned, a few more minor adjustments to ensure fitment were easy.

On the other hand, I would suggest calling Ford Performance. Your current radiator may be fine in regards to required cooling ability and Coyote requirements. With your IFS and Gen3 are you forced into an external oil filter and cooler or can you remotely use the Coyote oil filter mount/cooler unit? I feel that is a stupid question but asked…. 🤓
- If your plan was a remote oil filter and oil cooler from the get go, you could go that route and use your current radiator. HOWEVER, when plumbing your PS and oil filter/cooler consider doing it in a way where if you had to go to a larger radiator (cooling proved insufficient), the necessary plumbing or location adjustments were painless or at least minimal cost etc.. Basically engineer/mod-in some flexibility if needed etc.

I would start there.

 

[Kjsmitty]

Intake comes off easy. I found the direct injectors.

Well that’s interesting. I was actually wondering where that took place since the manifold looked very similar to the Gen-2. That also answers my question regarding what that silver/plumbing looking unit on the passenger valve cover was all about…

Thanks for sharing Angry,

PS - I used to joke with my wife when looking at parts. I would tell her if the words “Coyote Swap” were anywhere on the page, all parts listed were twice the cost they should be….

KJ

 

[Kjsmitty]

Looking good Angry,
Being able to manipulate where ”you” want the engine will be nice (via motor mounts). Tunnel considerations are a given but definitely be thinking PS (if not electric) or Alternator if placing it in the lower front drivers side, MC to valve cover clearance as well as your desired steering linkage etc. I’ve added a picture of my firewall for an example. Once I removed the humps not to mention with all the other holes, and the fact I was slightly tilting my MC as well as moved it left about 1/2 inch along with the lower steering column, it was just easier to cover the entire firewall. I used a single sheet of 16 gauge for extra strength, stitch welded it in all the way around as well as numerous spot welds through existing structure - from the back side. Besides all of the required structure behind the MC mount it was quite easy.

Top photo is where I started cutting drilling and prepping. I then went on to fabricating the internal MC structure.
(I have no comments on where that 1970s pink shag rug came from, or why I had it….)🤓
Bottom photo is after initial primer at the body shop.

Fun, fun.

 

[Kjsmitty]

What does your AC install look like with those changes to the firewall?

In all reality the flat firewall made the AC install easier. Actually I wouldn call it easier because that would imply the intended way was harder.. I’ll just say everything went great. I went with the Vintage Air setup. Now, full disclosure I had ordered the full 65 Mustang instal kit. Ironically it arrived prior to me deciding on a Coyote swap…. I have nothing but good to say about Vintage Air - even though I had their full kit for numerous years they took back near every piece of the kit that I did not use due to the swap. Everything was like new however, but still, they refunded me for each piece near 5 years later…. SO, if you haven’t already, plan to order whatever brand you go with A-La-Carte. You will likely change your mind on plumbing direction along the way (no way, never happened to me….. 😜).

Anyway, if you go with the Vintage all I did was modified the under dash unit brackets to mount to a flush/flat firewall. As you have seen with many here, one of the best routes is to plumb everything within the passenger fender well. On my firewall picture above, the two larger holes in the lower center are for my heater hoses. I used AN style pass-through fittings. The two smaller holes, one near center and the other off to the left are the two mounting holes for the under dash assembly. (The large oval hole on the left inner fender panel next to the firewall is for the two engine management wiring harnesses).
There are three mounts on the vintage air. One on the front top which didn’t change, the other two on the back. The left one I just straightened out then bent flat - basically shortened it and placed the “bolt hole“ where I could get at it. The right one I did similar however also added to it to facilitate the input side heat valve install. It was just one other item I did not want to have under the hood. Given my heater hose routing that was also my only choice short of having it behind the engine down near the tunnel.
In the third picture you can see my AC plumbing (My ego insists that I point out the zip ties were just temporary.. 😜)
The two capped fittings are for the dryer which I fabricated a custom mount that utilizes the fender mounting holes/bolts behind the headlight bucket.

 

[Kjsmitty]

Thanks Angry,
Yes, the exact one you referenced. Mine is actually under the intake manifold
The first time I called Vintage Air after going the swap route it was one of the first things they recommended.

Your engine mounts look well made -nice welds

 

[Kjsmitty]

If you’re good you’ll have it running by Monday….. 😆

So what’s your thoughts with that placement - was that with the engine mounts on and contacting the crossmember?
Are you planning on using the Gen-III oil pan? It actually appears to fit better than I thought. Another key item to start digesting will be your brake MC fitment.
shave that firewall.. 😄👍

 

[Kjsmitty]

Greetings Angry,
So, when you say your intake is 1.25 inch from seating are you saying it’s just 1.25 directly above where it sits, or it needs to go back 1.25 more towards the firewall?
I added a couple photos for example of where my valves sit. You can see where I actually removed the firewall upper pinch weld to make more space. My engine mounts were fixed so no up, down or forward for me.
What would keep you from coming forward and/or down some? Strictly oil pan?
-Im thinking your cross member position will allow you to lower the front end more than I can (something I would have liked - about .5 or 1 inch lower). However desired, that also places the engine higher. Always a trade off.
-Depending on your headers/exhaust, brake MC and definitely mock up your column to rack steering linkage to see what you may “need” to do etc. A low profile oil pan may be a required option. Don’t get me wrong, I would want to use the composite one as well.

 

[Kjsmitty]

👍. And it’s so much easier to work on the dash wiring harness….. 😜

On the passenger side of the cowl you can just make relief cuts in what’s remaining and hammer and dolly it flat - but I bet you're already thinking that.

Copy on the Gen-3 pan. I hadn’t thought that it would be different than a Gen-2.

So what would happen if you just swapped your engine mounts in the above photo from left to right? Looks like it may move the engine forward a 1/2 inch or so - would the pan still clear the crossmember? Having what ever space you can get behind the engine will prove handy with both running the wiring harness and/or future maintenance etc.
On that note, if I had to do it over again I would of installed and finalized the engine harness prior to installing the engine. All of the wiring / harness heat protection etc I had to do behind the engine after instal was a royal PITA.

 

[Kjsmitty]

How much space do you have between the firewall and the back of your block where your trans mounts?

From the closest part of the passenger head to shaved firewall I have between 3.25 and 3.5 inches. It appears that is pretty close to the rear block area where it meets the bell housing etc. So with the intake off the closest portion of the engine to firewall is the ~3.25+ inches. With intake the furthest back CMCV is only 1.25 maybe 1.5 inches from shaved firewall.
Your engine does appear to be at least 1.5 inches higher than mine.
-My Master Cylinder placement was probably the most challenging little mod to the firewall. That was one of the items I had purchased several years prior thus was pretty much stuck using it. Along with the hydraulic clutch items. I knew I just had to make it work.

Say, have you seen the “Mal Wood” 65 + Mustang hydraulic clutch/pedal assembly. If I have issues with my current MDL setup I’ll be using one of theirs.. If that would of been available a couple years ago I would of been all over it then as well.

 

[Kjsmitty]

Yes, that’s a tough one all right. Do you have to raise the tunnel it that area beyond removing the brace?

 

[Kjsmitty]

I’ll admit quite a bit went into my/the MC area/setup. I could throw any manual MC on there so what I have/did isn’t anything specific in regards to the way I mounted it etc. My MC was part of a electric power boosted brake setup from Stangaholics. The brand is “ABS Power Brakes”. I could tell you more on that if desired but it was about a $1500+ kit.
- I would not shift the engine left. I would think your worst case would be a need to install a different pedal assembly where MCs etc are all under the dash

Firewall / under dash pedal assembly and column mods:
Yes, the MC mounting location was shifted left and up, about one inch in each direction. The decision to slightly angle the MC upward both facilitated its distance above the drivers side valve cover but also to angle the MC piston connection rod to where it perfectly lined up to the pedal connection, at its new location.. I lost dozens of build pictures due to an iTunes user error between my daughter and I. I wish I had the exact photos but I believe this portion of my build are gone. But there was a bit more than just the wedge looking area on the firewall - all of which not only changed the location the pedal assembly mounted on the backside but also the way it mounted. I also moved the steering column/hole location to the left about 1/2 inch - which helped with the pedal assemblies new location as well as my steering linkage and header clearance issues.. Overall, all of this may sound strange or unorthodox however it worked out very well, very solid, functionally and visually.

I‘ll stop there for now. Maybe do a visual and see if one inch over and one inch up then angled in regards to the MC will work for your setup. If it does I can assist in getting you there if that’s a direction you want to go.

 

[Kjsmitty]

Yes, it’s very evident now that the shifter area on yours is easily 1.5 inches higher than mine - probably 2 inches. Your IFS is definitely set up for a lower ride. I would take an inch from you if I could.. *For a lower stance men, yes, lower stance…. 😆

Besides the MC that height will probably be a plus for most everything else. And I would agree. Once you get the car at ride height your engine/trans angle will be closer to 3.5 degrees. Nothing wrong with that.

Glad you’re making some progress.

 

[Kjsmitty]

So before you go further is there any possibilities of neatly modifying the center of the IFS/crossmember to facilitate any lowering of the Coyote? There may be too many other issues in doing so regarding the rack and lower control arms..
I know you want to keep the oil pan but are there any “shorter” options there? Just looks like if you could get the engine even an inch lower it would only be positive gains?

 

[Kjsmitty]

Good call on tack welding and waiting to finalize nail everything is / has been installed and perfected. Very well may not be a fitment issue but a change of direction.
I had a fun time with my Heidts engine mounts as well. Just due to their hand welding / jigs my drivers side mount was slightly angled resulting in 1/4 inch or more lower on the drivers side. I then had to change the centering hole due to it pulling the engine closer one way than the other. Had similar issues with their IRS mounts/saddles. Their customer support was great however. I ended up completely fabricating an entire new rear frame rails / IRS support structure that incorporated their saddles however laminated the frames from torque box through rear frame to where a roll cage would mount etc.

Got off track,, but regardless of manufacturer a lot of these kits are welded by hand, add that to 1960s build perimeters and tolerances definitely need to be validated on each car

 

[Kjsmitty]

Great idea in regards to the way you cut the peddle box/assembly. My brain was adamant about not doing that but looking back that would definitely be the easier approach. You will most likely need/want a 1/2 inch spacer to accommodate the possible 3/4 raise at the firewall. That was with leaving the rear box shape the same etc. You will have the brakes sorted soon. Then on to the clutch.👍

 

[Kjsmitty]

Nailed it!l. Nice work - great modification/thinking and execution. 👍