[602Raptor]

I have a close friend doing a Coyote / 10R80 in a classic bronco (also in Phx). He convinced me that buying the new Coyote long block would come out around 1K cheaper due to not paying for parts that wouldn't be used.

Here's what he bought:
Ford Performance Gen 3 Coyote Engine - Long Block | M-6006-M50C (lmr.com)

Not sure if tat's helpful as I haven't seen anyone here buy a long block vs. complete, but it makes for an interesting discussion. Very cool build. I can't offer much, but I'm not far away if you need a second pair of hands.

 

[602Raptor]

Coyote parts pop up on Craigslist / Offerup pretty frequently in Phoenix. The long block is ~3K cheaper. I'd be pretty motivated for a 3K savings.

 

[602Raptor]

How are you doing the stripping and what are your plans for a finish? Will you be adding any additional bracing?

 

[602Raptor]

Nice. I apologize if I missed it, but who was the vendor / manufacturer for the gauges?

 

[602Raptor]

Props to you for tackling that. Looks like a hell of a lot of work. You started with a nice car and it's going to be a really nice car once complete. Keep up the good work!

 

[602Raptor]

You are making excellent progress, and in this heat no less!

 

[602Raptor]

Cool, also a Phx native. I'm gonna have to check this out in person one of these days, preferably when its cooler and I can go for a ride

 

[602Raptor]

I'm curious as to why you'd want the shock tower filler panels removable. Header install? Seems like that would be an area where you could gain some chassis stiffening back by welding the panels in. Regardless, the work looks great and the removable radiator support is smart. Can you share a pic of the back side of those fasteners?

 

[602Raptor]

Took pics of the view for you.

A picture is worth a 1000 words...Makes total sense why you made those removable. Keep up the progress. Driving season is just around the corner.

 

[602Raptor]

Which vendor did you go with for the carpet?

 

[602Raptor]

Just thinking out loud...before you weld those in, you could run a string between two points, say the cowl and frame rail and then put a floor jack under the front crossmember and apply tension and see if slack is created in the string, and then repeat the test after they are welded in. I think that would be a cool test to prove that your reinforcements worked as expected.

 

[602Raptor]

Great idea! Did you ever see this build? This guy basically took what you are thinking to the extreme:

New Guy - 1965 Coupe

Annnd, more dressed in: Dash with all engine wiring in place and dressed in properly: Engine ready to start. Finished up my custom coolant pipes: Trunk work in process:

www.vintage-mustang.com

You can see the mounts for the engine "cage" in this pic:

Might give you some ideas.

 

[602Raptor]

The brackets you've painted all came out good. Whats your painting process?

 

[602Raptor]

Looking Good

 

[602Raptor]

My .02: I think filling in the gaps on the support brace with weld, will make it look like less of an addition. Your work there looks great either way.

 

[602Raptor]

Congratulations! That is an excellent Christmas present to yourself.

 

[602Raptor]

Well done! Impressive to say the least, especially the time frame in which you were able to complete the work you did.

Curious question; what do the stock, manual trans, mustangs put down with the same engine?